I had 48 hours in Turin, a lovely weekend side trip from my base in Genoa. My primary tasks were writing about the Savoy dynasty and the city’s automotive history. But hey, a guy’s got to eat, right? 48 hour in Turin. Ostensibly four meals: two lunches and two dinners. Maybe some snacks or drinks…
“On the road again. I just can’t wait to get on the road again.” Willie Nelson begins any road trip I have these days, even if it is just between my home in Los Angeles and visiting friends in Northern California. He expresses pretty perfectly the feeling of freedom I get when I leave the…
When planning my side trip from Genoa (my base for the month) to Turin, I knew I wanted to write about the Savoy dynasty that ruled Piedmont-Sardinia and then united Italy from here. (Click here to read that story.) I booked a hotel and found train tickets. And then, realizing I would be arriving just…
It seems that every dynasty has that one monarch somewhere down the line who gets to define the house. Sometimes it is due to greatness - and indeed the number of monarchs with that epithet probably all qualify - and sometimes it is for another quality. Sometimes it is for a specific deed, guiding the…
Editor’s note: Guatemala is one of my favorite places on the planet, and I’ve been to Tikal twice - once in each of my trips to the country. I’d happily go again. (You can read my latest article about the place here.) Like writer Sam Spector, I am always amazed visiting ruins of the great…
Genoa is not on most American tourists’ radar. Maybe a cruise they are on stops here - maybe - but otherwise they may or may not even know where it is, let alone think it’s a place they should visit in Italy. And so it was with me until I planned a trip here to…
A cold wind blows under blue skies, chilling me even on what is probably the clearest and prettiest day I’ve had in Genoa, Italy. Legs a bit tired from the climb, I nevertheless smile as I stare out at the view from more than 100 feet up a truly remarkable structure. Sitting atop a rock,…
There is something special about pesto. The fresh taste of basil, the sharpness of garlic, the umami of nuts, the creaminess of cheese, the smoothness of olive oil… they come together magically when done right. And this city, Genoa, in northwestern Italy is the birthplace of pesto. Genoa is also one of the origin cities…
This is the Genoa most come to see. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the city was home to some of the wealthiest bankers and merchants in the world. Through financing European royalty - specifically Spain - and continuing the region’s traditions of mercantilism and shipbuilding, Genoa became one of the richest cities anywhere. Its…
The wind is cold atop the Priamar Fortress complex. While the sun is out, making for a beautiful day, January sends a chilly breeze flowing over the stone battlements and down to the city below. I walk around slowly, alternating my view between the Mediterranean and the city of Savona, marveling at the vastness of…