“The pain passes, but the beauty remains.” In the early 1890s, famed French painter Pierre-August Renoir developed severe rheumatoid arthritis. Only in his 50s, recently married to his model Aline Charigot, with one son born and another on the way (he would ultimately have three), he was told to seek warmer climates in the south…
It is less than forty minutes by bus from my apartment in Old Nice, but feels like a world away. Life is slower here in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, and I sip a glass of white wine while waiting for my lunch. Sea birds and pigeons vie for aerial supremacy with wispy clouds, the soft sea breeze floats…
It is hard to be in this place and not have an emotional reaction. The colors on canvas are so vibrant, the themes so recognizable, the small details so impactful, that for anyone - art lover, scholar, or even casual observer - there is something to find that can easily create an intense experience. But…
In 1860, the County of Nice - including the city of Nice, obviously - was ceded to France by the Italian Kingdom of Piedmont-Sardinia in exchange for France’s support during the (failed, mostly) Second War of Italian Independence. The Treaty of Turin between Victor Emmanuel II and Napoleon III made the southern city and its…
Editor’s note: I spent about a week in Panama City back in 2019, and I think I enjoyed the city and found more going on than Sam Spector seems to. But that’s one of the best parts of travel! Two people can have totally different - but still wonderful - experiences in the same place!…
I know, I know. It seems like I just got back from Europe. And really, it’s true. After less than three weeks at home, it’s back across an ocean. But this time, it’s the Pacific. Unlike some trips, this one is mainly a “people” trip. Namely, both A and I have family in New Zealand…
Being here at the Matisse Museum, built mainly into the Villa des Arenes in Nice’s Cimiez suburb, I can certainly see the appeal of the area. The climate is mild, the Mediterranean shore a few brief minutes away, but seeming almost as if in another world from this hilltop retreat. The Roman ruins of Cemenelum…
I get it. I really do. The opulence of the tiny Principality of Monaco is alluring. Visitors come - typically just for a day or so as a novelty to add another country to their counts - and they are enthralled by the glimpses into lives they (we) will never have. $100,000+ cars are common…
Today, Nice is essential France. There is a bakery on every block, a wine bar next door, and crepe stands abound. There is art, there is culture. There is no doubt that this is truly France. But in fact, Nice is a relative newcomer to France, its inclusion in the country only permanently coming in…
I think that for most people coming to Nice, its draw isn’t history. Rather they seek the Mediterranean sun, the blue waters of the Côte d’Azur, the fresh sea breeze, and the French cooking. But here in France’s fifth largest city there is a history that spans millennia, and can still be seen today with…