It seems that every dynasty has that one monarch somewhere down the line who gets to define the house. Sometimes it is due to greatness - and indeed the number of monarchs with that epithet probably all qualify - and sometimes it is for another quality. Sometimes it is for a specific deed, guiding the…
Editor’s note: Guatemala is one of my favorite places on the planet, and I’ve been to Tikal twice - once in each of my trips to the country. I’d happily go again. (You can read my latest article about the place here.) Like writer Sam Spector, I am always amazed visiting ruins of the great…
Genoa is not on most American tourists’ radar. Maybe a cruise they are on stops here - maybe - but otherwise they may or may not even know where it is, let alone think it’s a place they should visit in Italy. And so it was with me until I planned a trip here to…
A cold wind blows under blue skies, chilling me even on what is probably the clearest and prettiest day I’ve had in Genoa, Italy. Legs a bit tired from the climb, I nevertheless smile as I stare out at the view from more than 100 feet up a truly remarkable structure. Sitting atop a rock,…
There is something special about pesto. The fresh taste of basil, the sharpness of garlic, the umami of nuts, the creaminess of cheese, the smoothness of olive oil… they come together magically when done right. And this city, Genoa, in northwestern Italy is the birthplace of pesto. Genoa is also one of the origin cities…
This is the Genoa most come to see. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the city was home to some of the wealthiest bankers and merchants in the world. Through financing European royalty - specifically Spain - and continuing the region’s traditions of mercantilism and shipbuilding, Genoa became one of the richest cities anywhere. Its…
The wind is cold atop the Priamar Fortress complex. While the sun is out, making for a beautiful day, January sends a chilly breeze flowing over the stone battlements and down to the city below. I walk around slowly, alternating my view between the Mediterranean and the city of Savona, marveling at the vastness of…
Editor’s note: I spent two full weeks in Santo Domingo a few years back, and while the city wasn’t as well kept up as the historic portions of San Juan or Cartagena, I found my time there to be incredible. (You can read my guide here.) In this piece, Sam - in a way only…
Here I am, in another city and again writing about Christopher Columbus. In some parts of the world, this makes sense. He is buried, after all, split between Seville (from which he embarked on his famous 1492 voyage) and Santo Domingo (click here to read all about that). His life took him to several other…
At the end of the 12th century, the Republic of Genoa was flourishing. Trade routes the city-state built during the early crusades kept money flowing in, and an ambitious building project beautified and fortified the city. (Click here to read about the rise of the Genoese Republic.) But things were about to take a downward…