Note: since writing this article, the Danish Queen Margrethe has announced her abdication, with her son Frederik ascending to the throne. So while I have endeavored to replace instances referencing the Queen as the current monarch, please excuse any I missed.

It is, in theory, the oldest continuous monarchy in the world. Dating back to Gorm the Old in the year 936, the Danish monarchy has survived unbroken for more than a thousand years. From absolute rule to shared rule with the nobility and back again, then to being figureheads, it is a fascinating history with some pretty cool characters.

Here in Copenhagen, three palaces are able to be visited, although only two can be entered as tourists. And through seeing all of them, we can better understand the Danish monarchy and its relation to the country and the capital.

An exploration of Copenhagen’s royal palaces begins at Rosenborg Castle. While never a full royal residence, this castle on the northern side of Copenhagen’s center was built by Christian 4 as a summer palace in 1606. Aesthetically, it is the prettiest palace in Copenhagen, with its soaring towers, moat, and sculpted gardens. During Christian 4’s time, Danish monarchs were actually elected by the nobility (although it seemed to still pass from father to son, just with permission). His grandson, though, ruled with a return to absolute power.

Rosenborg Castle traces some of the history of the monarchy with rooms dedicated to each king who had possession of the castle before it was turned into a museum. I enjoy the room of Christian 5, Christian 4’s grandson. (Danish monarchs from the 1500s seem to alternate Christians and Fredericks, so two Christians will be two generations apart with a Frederick between.) Christian 5 was crowned in 1670, ruling until his death in 1699. His father, Frederick 3, returned the monarchy to absolute rule after Christian 4’s building projects like Rosenborg nearly bankrupted the country. Christian 5 and his wife Charlotte-Amelie were well regarded, and used their popularity to re-instill some coronation practices. Coronations were conducted here at Rosenborg, in the great hall upstairs, although the practice was discontinued in the 19th century. (Today, a new monarch is simply proclaimed.)

As a result of no longer having coronations, the Crown Jewels of Denmark are not really used. They are here at Rosenborg, and admission includes seeing them. They are technically owned by the state and not the monarch, so he has to ask for permission if he intends to wear any of them. (In fact, the only thing at Rosenborg Castle owned by the current monarch is the wine in the wine cellar.)

The most typically palatial of Copenhagen’s royal palaces is Christiansborg Palace. Topped by the tallest tower in Copenhagen (a feat in a city with so many amazing spires), Christiansborg was the official residence of the royal family from its construction in 1745 until it partially burned down in 1794. Today, it houses the Danish Parliament, Prime Minister’s office, and several stunning reception halls overseen by the monarch for official events. Those can be visited, as can Parliament.

Family portraits of the more modern Danish monarchs are in evidence all over, and the recent Queen’s grandfather is the one that interests me most. Christian 10 reigned during Nazi occupation of Denmark. He is credited with sparking the national resistance, and helping to keep anti-Jewish measures from being as bad as elsewhere, as he apparently said if any Dane had to wear a yellow star, all would, himself included. His actions, which culminated in evacuations of most of Denmark’s Jewish community to neutral Sweden, are credited with saving countless lives.

The highlight of Christiansborg Palace is the great hall, and a collection of tapestries created for the recent monarch, Margrethe 2. They are in stunning color, representing a history of the monarchy in a modern form, and books of them are the top selling item at the gift shop. (With the ascension of Frederick 10, I am not sure if this collection will remain.)

When Christiansborg Palace was burned in 1794, the monarchy purchased four smaller palaces in Amalienborg that were owned by other nobles. These are the residences of the royal family today, with the former Queen in one, the King in one, and other members of the family in the remainder. Tourists gather to watch the changing of the guard here, although it is not nearly as exciting as that at Buckingham in London.

Margrethe 2 was the second reigning female monarch, as opposed to a queen just married to a reigning king. Her namesake (though with a different spelling), Margaret 1, ruled in her own right at the turn of the 15th century. Originally queen regent for her young son, when he died, she managed to hang on to the throne, and is buried in the most honored place (the center of the main altar) in the cathedral at Roskilde, about fifteen miles outside of Copenhagen in what was the earlier capital city.

In all, 39 monarchs are entombed at Roskilde Cathedral, so a study of the monarchy has to include a trip there. Even Margrethe 2’s tomb is already prepared, although it is under a cover until she actually dies.

While Amalienborg is unable to be visited without an invitation from the royal family, the other three sites (Rosenborg Castle, Christiansborg Palace, and Roskilde Cathedral) all can, though all have admission fees, ranging up to about $25 for Christiansborg. This does, however, include access to the ruins beneath the palace that date back to the original Copenhagen Castle, so that is kind of exciting. But with all of the fees, it might be necessary to prioritize.

The Danish monarchy is a fascinating institution. I’ve only mentioned a few of the characters involved, but stories beyond these are just as interesting. Visits to the Royal palaces of Copenhagen offer insights into the oldest monarchy in the world, as well as views of some pretty cool buildings. These might be my favorite things I’ve done in the Danish capital!

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