Of my ten days in Belgium, this was the one I was looking forward to most. Bruges is said to be one of the prettiest and best preserved medieval cities in Europe, let alone in this small country. Formerly an important port city, made rich by merchants, and now mainly a tourist destination, Bruges seems to get more press than even Brussels among travel writers. So with a short one hour train ride to get there, it seemed a no-brainer to see if a day in Bruges could live up to the hype.
The train is quick, stopping in Ghent on the way toward the Belgian coast. (Click here to read about Ghent.) Bruges’ train station is a roughly 20 minute walk (a flat walk) from the city center, and one is immediately able to follow the tall towers to get there. As I mentioned from Ghent, this seems the Flemish pastime, building tall and beautiful spires. Bruges is no exception, and using them as landmarks is an easy way to orientate yourself toward the center.
Almost immediately upon leaving the train station, the beauty of Bruges’ medieval center is apparent. The streets are lined with buildings – some ornate and others plain – that date back centuries. Brick facades, wrought iron, beautiful stonework… the city has it all, and you are not even in the “pretty” part yet.
There is no particular order to see Bruges’ towers, so I just head toward the easiest to follow, winding up at the tallest: the tower of the Church of Our Lady. At 379 feet, the tower is the tallest structure in the entire city, and apparently the third tallest brick building in the world, standing watch over a pretty church with some lovely tapestries and beautiful stained glass.
The building dates back to around 1270, showing the importance and wealth of medieval Bruges. In 1089, Bruges became the capital of the County of Flanders, a region that today would encompass parts of northern Belgium and the Netherlands. The city was built on an inlet of the North Sea called the Zwin, and became one of the most important trading centers in Europe, with commerce focusing on woolen cloth. By the start of the fourteenth century, it was said that there were two cities in Europe where one could hear all the languages of the known world in a single day: Venice and Bruges. This shows just how important of a merchant city Bruges was.
As with any major trading hub, the layout of Bruges was built around a market square. Grote Markt is reachable from the Church of Our Lady by following another tower, the Belfry of Bruges. Originally built in 1240, this beautiful clock tower was rebuilt or expanded multiple times over the next two centuries of Bruges’ golden age. One can climb to the top, though tickets sell out early, meaning I was a bit too late. So I was left to admire the tower from its base in the square, fighting with tourists and horse drawn carriages for the best spot for photos.
The Grote Markt, while not quite as ornate as Brussels’ Grand Place (click here to read about that amazing square), is beautiful, and lined with outdoor cafes for tourists eager to slightly overspend for the sake of the view. I am one of those, opting for a lunch of Flemish beef stew and fries (yes they are a Belgian delicacy, despite the French in their name).
One square over from the Grote Markt is Burg Square, home to two of the main tourist sights of Bruges: the city hall and the Basilica of the Holy Blood. At the basilica, a stunningly painted church with a plain exterior, a vial containing what is said to be some of Jesus’ blood is held. Each afternoon (for at least a couple hours, depending on the priests’ availability) visitors can see the relic, though photos aren’t allowed. In my opinion, don’t bother. Rather, visit the church in the morning when it is less crowded and just enjoy the interior.
The city hall, on the other hand, is absolutely worth the admission fee. The gothic building was constructed around the turn of the fourteenth century, but while the exterior facade is great, two rooms on the inside are what you pay to see.
The main council chamber is known as the Gothic Hall. Once two rooms, the now-combined hall features a beautiful vaulted ceiling, golden embellishments, and murals showing some of the most important scenes in the history of Bruges. Each piece is different, and it is worth a half hour or more slowly moving from one area to the next, guided by an English-language “cheat sheet” with facts about each portion.
Then move to a dark room next door for a truly spectacular multimedia presentation on the history of Bruges and the sea. Headsets with narration in different languages are by the door, and you will be guided through more than a millennium of constantly-changing landscapes.
As the ages progressed, the Zwin silted up. Dredging kept it at bay for some time, but ultimately, canals were needed to keep Bruges and its outer ports in business. Storms and changing tidal patterns gave rise to new channels, and to new canals, and even to new ports entirely. By the sixteenth century, the golden age of Bruges had ended. But the constant cycle of new ports of Bruges didn’t end there. In 1907, the port of Zeebruges was built, and today it is still an important shipping port for Europe, providing an alternative to tourism for the city and its surroundings.
Canals are a theme here, and the city has a number running through the center. Boat tours are available, but I opt for just wandering a random series of alleys and bridges connecting a few around the Rosary Quay, where most of the tourist boats seem to launch. The addition of a hot chocolate made with Belgian dark chocolate makes for a perfect walk.
A slow walk back to the train station, and I am back in Brussels by dinner time. Bruges is as beautiful as people say, and though crowded with tourists even on a chilly October weekday, it is absolutely worth a visit. You can opt for a fairly simple and cost-effective day like mine, or a more expensive version with a horse and carriage or boat tour. Either way, you’ll love the medieval town.
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