Editor’s note: while I spent a month in Portugal, I never made it to any of the country’s islands. So this, the first in a series on the Azores by our resident geology buff Morgan, is a nice introduction to a place that is definitely on my list to visit. For more of Morgan’s writing, make sure to click here to visit her index page.

The Açores Islands are considered by some to be the Portuguese Hawaii due to their stunning lush landscapes, volcanic activity, endemic species, and status as a common vacation destination for those from the country’s mainland. I’ll be exploring the geology and allure of several of the Açores throughout my next few entries for The Royal Tour, starting with São Miguel. Throughout these articles I will be using the Portuguese spelling rather than the Anglicized versions; for example, Açores rather than Azores and São Miguel rather than San Miguel.

The Açores are a lush and vibrant place to experience volcanism as well as a unique version of Portuguese culture, food, and even style of speaking that can’t be found anywhere else.

Visiting São Miguel

São Miguel is the largest and most populous island of the group, with most of its 140,000 inhabitants settled in the city of Ponta Delgada, but you’ll find most of the magical adventures outside of that area.

After two delightful visits so far, I can attest that the best way to travel in São Miguel is with a rental car – and on all of the Açores, cars can be difficult to secure during the high season (June through August), so most locals recommend getting reservations early during this time. While I did also rent a small scooter during part of my trip, I’d recommend against it for most people if you plan to explore. Although I’m an experienced rider, happy navigating windy mountain roads through verdant jungle with rain pelting my face, I can’t say the trip was comfortable, especially on an under-powered scooter that struggled to make it up the slopes with cars occasionally behind me. Since the weather shifts frequently, including from place to place on the island, it’s completely unpredictable – and the rental shops don’t provide much in terms of gear.

If you do decide to visit São Miguel during the off-season, you’ll find that you have access to lots of last-minute bookings that wouldn’t normally be available – but keep your plans flexible and don’t be surprised to notice quite a few businesses close altogether. The already-sleepy islands get even more quiet during these times, which is perfect if you like the views to yourself.

São Miguel Activities

One absolutely wonderful evening activity I undertook included soaking in the natural hot springs, a volcano-cooked dinner, and a nightcap created with naturally carbonated water.

While the trip from Ponta Delgada to Furnas takes nearly an hour, the winding lush landscapes are certainly worth the drive by themselves. Furnas is a lovely little town that contains a park with natural hot steam vents throughout – at night it feels like an eerie mini Yellowstone in the middle of a botanical garden. The park’s various faucets tap thermal water at different temperatures (which are marked at each location so visitors aren’t surprised by scaldingly hot water shooting out when they open the tap). Some of these are even naturally carbonated, so making a mojito-like cocktail with fresh mint and sparkling water from one of the cold faucets was a unique experience I don’t imagine I’ll be able to have anywhere else.

This area’s official hot springs require reservations for soaking, so be sure to plan ahead. The sulfur-containing springs will stain your swimsuit and towel with iron, so be sure to follow the guidance from the official website!

Some of the island’s more famous restaurants live in Furnas, too – the traditional style here, called cozido, involves an all-day boil cooked by the volcano itself. Early each morning, the cooks fill large pots with many types of meats, root vegetables, and more, carefully lowering the pots into thermal holes for the better part of a day. The delicious, steaming, hearty stews are then served family-style at the restaurants in large communal dishes, often with sweet Açores bread to accompany them and local pineapple for dessert. As you may guess, the long cook time means that each day the restaurant can only accommodate so many diners for cozido, so be sure to set your reservation ahead of time – even in the offseason.

Another notable stop in São Miguel is the caldera called Sete Cidades. This location’s stunning jewel-toned lakes and views are certainly worth checking out, and around every corner seems to lurk a better and better view. The drive west from Ponta Delgada takes you through more lovely winding roads.

You’ll also find some great scuba diving on São Miguel, various local pineapple farms, and a marina with houseboats available to rent. Additionally, along the west coast lies a unique opportunity to soak in the ocean where thermal waters flow up and mix with the cooler ocean – almost a bath-like temperature in natural rock pools with gentle waves.

Formation of São Miguel Island

The Açores are new, geologically speaking. São Miguel has only looked the way it does now, as one long island, for roughly the last 50,000 years. Eruptions from the ocean floor began three million years ago in six volcanic zones that have been joined over time into what is now São Miguel. That’s why you’ll find various types of volcanic activity, including multiple caves and calderas (bowl-like depressions that form after an eruption and can fill with water to become lakes, like those near Sete Cidades), throughout the island.

Due to the varied volcanic activity that formed São Miguel, you’ll find typical volcanic stone, such as basalt and tuff, as well as evidence of lava flows and pyroclastic explosions throughout the island.

Likely because of the young age of these islands, the Açores had no human inhabitants when Portuguese explorers discovered the chain in the 1400s. Therefore, no indigenous people were displaced as the Portuguese settled the islands – though some of the settlers themselves were affected and displaced by active eruptions, earthquakes, and landslides.

São Miguel is a great first taste of the Açores, and a fitting jumping-off point to see the other islands – especially because inter-island flights and ferry fares are quite affordable. If you want to, play a bit with long flight layovers (many are 20+ hours) to see additional islands with just one flight purchase. But there’s truly no need to feel pressured to explore too much with the time you have – try to embrace the local laid-back slow pace of life. São Miguel certainly has everything you could want on just one island, and I will definitely be back to see even more of its natural wonder and volcanoes soon.

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