In recent decades, Sicily has become a top tourist destination. And really, why not? Mediterranean coastline, mild winters and hot summers, good food and wine, fascinating ancient history and some reasonably exciting more modern stories as well… what else could a traveler want? Add to that reasonable prices in comparison to most of Western Europe, and it is no wonder that Sicily is hot right now.

So of course, I had to see what the fuss was about. After having spent 2.5 months in Italy last year, a return trip to a new portion of this amazing country sounded wonderful. Well, Sicily did not disappoint. Those who speak so highly about the island do so for good reason.

In more than two weeks in Sicily, I journeyed through the majority of the island, only truly missing the northeast corner centered on Messina. Did I do and see everything in those parts I was in? Of course not! But I did enough to feel comfortable writing this guide, and helping you decide if Sicily is a destination you want to visit. (Note that I will only write about things I personally experienced; to do anything else would be disingenuous.)

There are links spread throughout this guide. Click on those to read more detailed articles about specific aspects of Sicily, or specific destinations on the island. And if you enjoy the guide, please click here to read our ultimate guides from all over the world!

Getting There

There are no direct flights to Sicily from the U.S., so if you come to Sicily, you will either fly in from elsewhere in Europe to one of two gateway airports (Palermo or Catania), or take a train from the Italian mainland.

Let’s start with the train, since it is the method I did not experience but would like to one day. Sicily is an island, separated from the peninsula of Italy by the Strait of Messina. Trains actually load onto ferries, to be reassembled on the other side to continue their journeys. (The same goes for intercity buses.) However, unless you love trains or want to spend time in southern Italy, you’ll likely find it more efficient to fly.

While Palermo is the larger city and capital, Catania has a slightly larger airport, though either has flights from European capitals and other Italian gateway cities. Both airports are connected to their respective city centers by an airport bus that runs every 15-35 minutes depending on the time of day and the exigencies of Italian transport systems. From the Palermo airport to the center is €6 and about 45 minutes; Catania is 30 minutes and €4. Palermo bus tickets are purchased outside of the bus from attendants with credit card machines, while Catania tickets can be bought onboard with cash or a card. The Palermo bus requires you to stow luggage underneath; the Catania bus has you bring it on with you like a normal city bus. I took both (flying into Palermo and out from Catania), and found both to be just fine.

You can also get from the airports into the city with taxis or Uber, which will run you from €20-50 depending on time and which airport (Palermo is further so more expensive).

(It is also worth noting that cruises do come to Sicily regularly, but if you arrive via cruise ship you’ll probably just be stopping in a single city for a single day.)

Getting Around

Navigating Sicily can be tricky. Within Palermo and Catania, walking is your best bet. Traffic is bad, parking is limited, and even public transit is unreliable. (Catania does have a single metro line but I didn’t take it as it doesn’t really reach the touristic sights.) Fortunately, both cities are reasonably flat; there are some small hills but nothing that will be a challenge. Just if you do walk in Palermo, watch for dog droppings, which seem to be more common here than most cities I’ve visited in Europe. And watch out for the ever-present motorbikes in pedestrian areas. Oh, Italy.

If you want to leave Palermo or Catania, however, things can become a lot more complicated. There are trains that connect cities in Sicily. However, they are inefficient, slow, require changes, and don’t go to some of the top places you’ll want to see that are off the main path. So yes, you can absolutely use trains for day trips, especially along the eastern coast from Catania, but if you want to see the island more in depth, you’ll want to either be on a tour or have a car.

If you plan to drive, highways in Sicily are actually pretty good. Ostensibly many are toll roads, although some of the toll booths are not in working order. Just do some research on that before making a trip.

What to Do

There is so much, so I’ll try to break it down into a couple basic categories: natural beauty and history. And even with these, there is a ton of variance depending on where in Sicily you might plan to be. So bear with me if this is a bit disorganized.

Let’s begin with some natural beauty. The island is, objectively, stunning. You have dramatic coastline, soaring mountains, green rolling hills with vineyards, and some solid beaches. The most obvious natural feature is the Mediterranean coast, which is most popular on the eastern side of the island and can largely be seen on day trips from Catania. The two most popular seaside towns are Taormina (north of Catania, though I didn’t visit) and Syracuse (south of Catania, and you can read about my experience by clicking here). They can both be incredibly crowded, so just be aware of that.

If you like mountains, you have a couple options of how best to experience them. First, if you are in Catania, you can’t miss Mt. Etna, the volcano that has shaped so much of Sicily. Day trips will allow for hiking, and it is a wonderful way to escape the city. (Click here to read more about Mt. Etna.) Or you can pick a small Sicilian hilltop town to visit. I saw Castelbuono as a day trip from Palermo and loved my relaxed day there. (Click here to read more about Castelbuono.)

For me, though, as beautiful as Sicily is, the highlight is the history. So many civilizations have come through here, and remnants of most of them are able to be seen and visited. So let’s go chronologically, shall we?

In the northwest of the island sits Motya, what was once a vibrant Phoenician city. It is hard to reach without a car, since this part of Sicily is not densely populated, but worth it if you can make it happen since there are so few Phoenician ruins in the world. (Click here to read about Motya.) I will be honest and say this is one of my personal top three highlights in Sicily (along with a Roman villa and Palermo, which I’ll mention in a moment.)

While the Phoenicians dominated the western part of Sicily, the Greeks were in the east. If you clicked on my article above about Syracuse, you’ll see how disappointing visiting that former Greek power is from a historical standpoint, but a trip to Agrigento and the Valley of the Temples is a treat of Greek architecture and culture. (Click here to read more about the Valley of the Temples.)

After the Greeks came the Romans, and Villa Romana del Casale is the pinnacle of Roman mosaic in the world. Seriously, if you have the slightest possibility to visit, do so. You’ll be amazed. (Click here to read about this incredible villa.)

With the fall of the Roman Empire, a short period of rule by the Ostrogoths and Visigoths gave way to Arab domination, and then Norman conquest. These two civilizations are intertwined, and in Palermo, Arab-Norman remnants are easily the highlight. You’ll see eleventh and twelfth century churches and palaces that are spectacular. (Click here to read about Arab-Norman Palermo.)

Sicily then came to be dominated by the Spanish, and with them came baroque beauty, especially after a 1693 earthquake that destroyed a huge portion of the island. One of the best places to experience that era is Ragusa, along with nearby Modica. (Click here to read about these towns.)

And of course, there is the more modern history of Sicily, which for many focuses on the mafia. While the mafia is mainly in the past (as of recent years), it is still very much a part of the mindset and culture here, and you can read more about that here.

Bottom line, if you like any aspect of history, Sicily will be a treat for you.

Where to Stay

The easiest way to experience Sicily is from bases in Palermo and Catania and a system of day trips. Both cities run most of the gamut from small cheap hotels to luxury properties, although U.S. luxury brands are mostly lacking. You will find some more basic level American hotel chain properties, but Ritz Carlton and Four Seasons haven’t established footprints here. Yet. They will.

Within the smaller cities, should you choose to stay in those, you’ll mostly be looking at local hotels, either Italian chains or independent outlets. Airbnb is also a possibility in most areas of the island, though I didn’t use them on this trip since hotels were reasonably priced and I changed cities often.

It should also be noted that Sicily has a robust agroturismo culture, so if you have a car and desire some peace and quiet on a farm or vineyard, you can try one of those.

What to Eat

Sicily is part of Italy – duh – and therefore you’ll be treated to what is probably the best food culture in the world. Pasta, pizza, cappuccinos, wine… all the Italian staples can be had here. It is worth noting, however, that Sicilian portions are larger than those on the mainland, which is both wonderful and an issue for dietary purposes.

That said, there are a few local specialties to watch out for and to try. Let’s start with the most popular Sicilian street food, the arancino (plural arancini). This is basically a deep fried stuffed risotto ball. One will run anywhere from €2-5, and one or two will be more than enough for lunch. Traditionally filled with meat (ragu) or cheese (burro), you can also find some with spinach, pistachios, ham, or any number of other fillings.

Next, we have the mighty cannoli (that’s the plural; the singular is cannolo). This most traditional Sicilian dessert is a fried shell stuffed with sweetened ricotta. It can be huge and filling and overly sweet, so go in moderation. It is also a nice treat with your morning cappuccino if you have a sweet tooth first thing.

My personal favorite Sicilian dish is pasta with bottarga. Bottarga is dried fish roe, with red tuna being the most common I saw while here. It is shaved on top of pasta almost like Parmesan cheese would be, but it is salty and briny like seafood. People either love it or hate it, but you should try it to decide for yourself. My top of four that I had while here was at Rimessa Dragotto in Palermo.

Beyond that, just enjoy the ingredients the island is known for. Seafood (like red prawns in the northwest), Sicilian oregano, Nero D’Avolo red wine, ricotta cheese, citrus, olives, and pistachios are just a few examples. Let’s put it this way: you’ll not leave Sicily hungry. You’ll also not leave thinner than you arrived.

Other Useful Information

A note on weather. Summer can be hot, and can be relatively humid. Winters can get snow at elevation, although are mild at sea level where most major cities are. Wind can be a thing. Pack accordingly.

Sicilian hospitality is legendary. If you are ever hosted by a family, or stay at an agroturismo, be prepared to eat past the point of being stuffed.

Sicilians speak Italian, but also a Sicilian dialect. English is used but isn’t as common as in mainland Italy, especially if you end up in some of the smaller towns.

A final warning from Italy as a whole but even more so here. Even if you are in a pedestrian only area, watch out for cars, motorbikes, bicycles, and scooters. Watch out on sidewalks and in crosswalks and anywhere else you think you are probably safe.

Conclusion

Sicily is awesome. It is beautiful, it has more history than almost anywhere, it is full of great food, and inhabited by mainly wonderful people. I’d happily return, and definitely will. You will love it, and while it has its challenges, a trip here will be a truly incredible experience! I hope this guide has helped inspire your Sicilian adventure.

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