Few places on Earth are more stark in their contrasts. East meets West. Europe intersects Asia. Islam and secularism coexist side by side. And for tourists, one of the most incredible and dynamic cities has to be taken in turn with a regime that is, here in 2024, not very democratic in tendency nor pro-American.
Turkey is unique, and Istanbul more so than anywhere else. It is both a wonderful place to visit – indeed I’ve now been two years in a row – and a scary place where I don’t necessarily feel safe for political reasons. It exists as a dichotomy, geographically, historically, religiously… and understanding these seemingly opposite features is necessary to comprehend the country and its largest city, and to decide if it is the right destination for you.
Europe Meets Asia
This is the easiest to understand, and yet also something that blows my mind each time I visit. For most tourists, Istanbul will begin – and probably end – in Europe, on the western side of the Bosphorus where the city began as Constantinople. This is where the top sights are congregated. Some small portion of tourists will cross the Golden Horn to Galata to climb its Byzantine-era tower. But fewer will gaze across the Bosphorus itself to the beginnings of Asia, crossing via ferry to the neighborhood of Kadikoy.
It took until this trip, my third to this city, for me to do so. A short half hour on the water took me to an area free of tourist sites, a land of youth and street food. Is it Asian as we think of Asia? No. But it’s on the continent, and to change continents in under an hour is rather a surreal experience. And seriously, the food here is better and cheaper.
East Meets West
All it takes is a few minutes spent wandering any of central Istanbul’s streets to realize that this place is different to the point of not being able to be defined. Just look at the shops. You’ll find a mix of Europe’s top brands and very non-European small stalls selling all sorts of wares, and they will exist side by side. One block might feel like it could come from Paris or Madrid, and another from the heart of Arabia or beyond.
Even the mighty Topkapi Palace, for centuries home of the Ottoman Sultans, shows this dichotomy. Parts of the palace depict Islamic architecture and design at their finest, and others are 100% European Renaissance, reminiscent of Versailles. This city has seemingly always had one foot in and one out of Europe, a trend that continues today.
Old Meets New
Istanbul shows its ancient roots better than perhaps any city other than Rome or Athens, with so many things dating back to the Eastern Roman Emperor Justinian. His mighty cathedral, the Hagia Sophia (now a mosque), dominates the skyline of the former city of Constantinople as it has since the 7th century.
But gaze just outside of that ancient center and you’ll find modern glass skyscrapers going up at a pace that is dizzying, trying to keep up with Istanbul’s 20 million – and growing – population. Free WiFi in this historic center belies the age of the stunning buildings. Perhaps the most modern of airports greets visitors, and solidly good highways take them (slowly with traffic) into the city. But that character from Byzantine and Ottoman times is still prevalent.
Islam Meets Secularism
Modern Turkey was founded after the collapse of the Ottoman Empire in World War One. Its architect, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, intended for it to be a secular state, although not necessarily a full European-style democracy since so much power was vested in the military. (That’s an article for a different time, however, since I would personally like to explore that period more fully.) The country had a vast Muslim majority, but holy sites like the Hagia Sofia were turned into museums and protected, and minority communities largely integrated.
Over the decades, Turkey has become more religious. As mentioned, the current administration – catering to the heavily Islamic nationalist base – returned the Hagia Sofia to a working mosque, and more Islamist rhetoric has come from the government.
But here in Istanbul, while traditional Muslim dress is more prevalent than it was on my first visit in 2009, the dichotomy is incredibly apparent. Women in hijab walk side by side with women in shorts and tank tops. Calls to prayer ring out (and if you can stand in the square between the Hagia Sofia and Blue Mosque during that, you’re in for a treat) but the business of the country doesn’t stop. Tourists are expected to dress appropriately when visiting holy sites (something that is no different from visiting churches in Italy or temples in Thailand) but outside of those, they can dress as they choose. Even alcohol, something forbidden by Islam, is widely available all over the central city.
(A note on dress for entering Muslim sites: men will need their shoulders and knees covered. Women need shoulders, knees, and heads covered. Most mosques have shawls one can borrow if needed, but you’re better off bringing your own and wearing pants or a long skirt, and a shirt with at least short sleeves. Shoes will be required to be removed before entering, as well. If you don’t like any of these things, just don’t visit mosques and other similar sites, but you’ll be missing out.)
Certain neighborhoods are more or less Islamic, similar to a place like Jerusalem and its levels of Judaic observance by neighborhood. The tourist centers are less so, and Kadikoy in Asia even less. Hand holding by young couples is common, and nobody in these areas really seems to care.
(A possible exception to some of this might be the holy month of Ramadan. I have not visited during this period – which changes when it falls yearly so do your research – and probably would choose not to just in case it affects the tourist experience greatly.)
Democratic Meets Authoritarian
Turkey is a democracy. Let’s start with that basic fact. However, the rhetoric by the Erdogan regime is less so (similar to Trump) and some of the protections put in place at the founding of the state have been weakened. Here in Istanbul, the dichotomy is stark.
This is a city that overwhelmingly voted against Erdogan’s party in recent elections. But government-sponsored propaganda featuring his face is all over. If you speak to locals, as I did, most seem to not like him. But how freely one can speak is something I’m not totally sure of.
For tourists, be wary, as one should be wary visiting any country where freedom of speech is not a 100% guarantee. As non-citizens, our rights are fairly limited, and the authoritarian trends here are a bit worrying, despite the overall acceptance one will find by the population.
Safe Meets Scary
All one has to do is listen to the rhetoric by the Erdogan government to not fully feel safe in Turkey, especially as an American and even more especially, in my case, as a Jew. His speeches are meant to rile up his anti-Israel and anti-West base, and as we know, even political speech without specific deed can lead to violence. Just ask a few American Marines attacked this year in the city of Izmir, although there were no injuries, and Turkey, to its credit, has prosecuted the offenders.
As someone lucky enough to possess two citizenships and passports, I do not use my American passport to enter Turkey, nor do I tell anyone of my American background or Jewish identity. When asked, I am German, and that’s it. (Germany has one of the largest Turkish expat communities in the world, so relations are a bit closer.) And I am hesitant as an American Jew, despite my second passport, to visit other parts of Turkey, or even neighborhoods outside the secular tourist-heavy center of Istanbul.
That all said, I have never once felt unsafe. Nor have I ever once felt unwelcome. Anti-Israel signage is just as prevalent in parts of Europe, and anti-American sentiment just as strong in parts of Latin America. The people here have been nothing but friendly toward me, although that friendliness can be a bit unnerving when it leads people to ask where I’m from. Despite their almost certainly good intentions to just create bonds and get me to come to their shops or restaurants, it does shake me a bit, a feeling I admit is probably not based in any sort of objective reality.
Turkey is, and Istanbul especially is, a dichotomy. One thing that exists despite all of these contradictions, though, is that this city is amazing, a feeling I’ve had on all three of my visits. It is my sincere hope that those parts of Turkish political society that lead to some hesitation on my part – and others’ – fade, and that I am able to explore more of the country in the near future. This place is just different, and mainly in a terrific way.
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