I have to admit not having high hopes for Tangier. When I decided on my Morocco itinerary, comparing multiple tour options, and I ended up choosing one that spent a day in the northernmost Moroccan city, I was less excited and more resigned. Tangier has the reputation of being chaotic, overwhelming, confusing, and not the most pleasant of visitor experiences. After a mere few hours, I can say that while the city is indeed chaotic and confusing, it is approachable, open, and stunningly beautiful. 

Tangier was founded as a Phoenician trading colony in the 9th or 10th century BCE. Its location is one of incredible importance, being the nearest point in Africa to Europe. (Not quite, in actuality, since there is a portion of the peninsula Tangier sits on that is a bit closer, but that’s just mincing words.) In fact, you can see Spain quite easily, and the ferry across the Straight of Gibraltar is only about a half hour. So this city is the maritime crossroad of Africa and Europe, as well as the Mediterranean and Atlantic. 

While the city had periods under Carthage, Rome, the Byzantines, and the Vandals, as well as the local Berbers, it is after the Arab conquest of North Africa that what we think of as Tangier emerged. (Click here to read more about that period as seen from Tunisia.) The city fell to the Muslims in the year 711, although it would be retaken by the Berbers in 740, before the Arabs conquered it again for good in 790. The Arabs under the various Moroccan dynasties would keep control of Tangier until 1471, when a series of European occupations began, but more on those in a bit.

An exploration of Tangier focuses on the Arab period, and is seen through the Medina, or old city. (You might recall the Medina of Tunis, which I wrote about here.) This was the original walled city, and is a small dense area full of narrow winding alleys. When people say Tangier is confusing and overwhelming, it is the confusion of navigating the Medina they are referring to.

The Medina of Tangier differs from others I’ve seen in that it is a) smaller, significantly so than other cities of the population of this one and b) built on a hill overlooking the ocean. That second aspect adds much to the experience of wandering, both positive in the elevation changes providing incredible vistas (not even counting the views of the ocean below) and negative as it can be quite steep and slippery. But trust me, the beauty wins out.

At the top of the Medina sits the Kasbah, the original fortress that protected the city in addition to its walls. Today’s Kasbah is obviously not defensive, instead housing museums, like one dedicated to Ibn Battuta, the 14th century Arab explorer whose account of China would be the definitive one for centuries.

From the Kasbah, all roads (road is a very generous term since most are barely alleys in the modern sense) lead downward, but not all run through. Medinas were meant to confuse would-be attackers, with countless dead ends, winding turns, and meandering paths. I’m lucky enough to be with a guide, for I’m quickly lost.

It is easy to see why this city has inspired artists, writers, and filmmakers for centuries. My route through the narrow alleys follows a path of Matisse paintings from his time here. Others might prefer to view the former private houses of European and American elite who fell in love with the city after brief visits and chose to make it their home. Still others will trace the multiple James Bond films that were shot here. 

Why has Tangier been home to so many Western expats? The answer comes as we continue our history of the city. In 1471, Tangier was taken by Portuguese forces. They would remain until 1661, when Charles II of Great Britain acquired the area as part of the dowry of his wife. It was later taken by Spain in 1790. It’s a confusing story.

When in 1912 most of Morocco was divided into French and Spanish protectorates, Tangier was sort of a no-man’s land. In 1923, however, it was declared to be an international city, under joint administration of several world powers. Thus began the second golden age of Tangier, with its status making it a refuge for expats from all over, a trading paradise, and a tax haven. 

This new Tangier obviously had to expand well beyond the Medina, and that expansion happened in a very European style. Driving through New Tangier on the way to the Medina means passing down wide tree-lined boulevards past European art nouveau constructions. A chic corniche emerged, a seaside promenade still in use today. 

Today’s Tangier is the third largest city in Morocco, home to more than two million people. And it still has a large expat population, even though it lost its international status with Moroccan independence in 1956. It is a city where Spanish is more common than French, but dozens of languages can be heard along the busy streets. 

And yeah, it is beautiful.  

I wasn’t excited to come to Tangier, viewing it as a stop I had to make since it was part of my tour. Now I am just excited to come back.

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