For all of my explorations of the Roman Empire, and the dizzying number of Roman sites I’ve visited, somehow I never cease to be surprised at just how far Rome extended its territory, and just how much has survived the nearly two millennia since its fall. And yet, here I am, just outside of Meknes, one of Morocco’s four imperial cities, and I’m walking through a pretty remarkably well preserved Roman colony, Volubilis.

Is it filled with magnificent building projects? No. Is it home to an incredibly interesting history? Also, no. Was Volubilis even an important cog in Roman life? Slightly more debatable, but again, no. But Volubilis does provide a cool look at a Roman colony on the edge of the Empire, and an idea of what a city where Romans and native non-Romans lived together, albeit segregated, looked like.

Morocco was a relative latecomer to the Roman Empire, being annexed by Claudius in 44 AD. But even prior to that, Volubilis existed as a city, first under Carthaginian indirect rule, and then as part of the Kingdom of Mauritania, a Roman vassal. The city was founded – and continued to exist though Roman times – because of its location: an area with fertile soil and rolling hills suitable for growing grains, olives, and grapes.

At its peak, Volubilis probably had a population of around 10,000. Of these, roughly 3,000 were Romans. The remainder were native Berbers. The two, Romans and Berbers, shared the city and its public spaces, but lived on separate sides, and it is this two-tiered colonial system that is one of the more interesting facets of Volubilis.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, Volubilis gradually came into disuse, but much of the city remained standing, being chronicled in 1722 by a British antiques dealer. But in 1755, a huge earthquake struck Lisbon, Portugal, and its impact was felt even this far south, with the majority of Volubilis collapsing, and gradually being overgrown until French archaeologists began to uncover it during their period of rule here in the 20th century. (Much is still buried.)

Today, Volubilis offers an experience that lies somewhere less than Pompeii (click here to read about Pompeii), but much more than a mere cluster of buildings. Similarities to Pompeii lie in the sheer number of buildings that still exist – at least in foundation form – and in the beautiful mosaics that have been uncovered in many of them. Those mosaics are part of the large homes that belonged to the Romans of Volubilis.

Some of the homes have fountains, atria, baths, even what we would call hot tubs. These are obviously well-to-do people, probably merchants who made their fortunes down here on the edge of the Empire trading in grains, olive oil, and wine. The houses of the Berber residents, on the other hand, don’t seem to have had any adornments.

The main roads are lined with columns, some of which still stand, and lead to the central public complex of the city. This Roman grid is again reminiscent of Pompeii, and due to Volubilis’ remote location, less was stripped from here than from other Roman sites, leaving more of it visible.

The central public area of the city holds three structures of interest: a temple, a basilica, and a triumphal arch.

The Capitoline Temple was dedicated to the three principal Roman deities: Jupiter (Zeus), Juno (Hera), and Minerva (Athena). We know this from an inscription found, one that also states that the temple was rebuilt in the year 218.

In Roman times, a basilica was not a religious building. Rather it was used for municipal governance, where magistrates would do their business. One entire wall of the basilica is still standing, with stunning arches that opened up to Volubilis’ forum, or marketplace.

Finally, Volubilis holds the Arch of Caracalla, built in 217 to honor that Roman emperor. While Caracalla was assassinated before it was completed, it still would have been a lovely sight in its time, with statues on top, and a bust of the emperor on one side, and one of his mother on the other.

The best part of visiting Volubilis is the ability to wander a full Roman city. Unlike some sites where what remains to the public is a single – albeit monumental – building, here the entirety of the city is free to explore. And with mosaics, a plethora of columns (mainly Corinthian but all orders are represented), and small public buildings waiting to be discovered, that makes for a pleasant excursion.

Volubilis isn’t the most spectacular of Roman ruins, not by a long shot. But if you are like me, and you just can’t get enough Roman sites in your life, and you find yourself in Morocco, it is worth a stop.

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