I’ve stared at this screen for three days now, debating what to write about Fes, Morocco. How does one distill even a single day in this city down into an article? What’s the angle? The city is overwhelming, with more than a thousand years of history as an imperial capital, as a place of learning, and as a trading center. Fes is home to the world’s oldest continually running university, and its Medina (old city) is the largest car-free zone on the planet with more than 9,000 alleys and 3,000 dead ends. 

It is a lot, and my day has left me dizzy, my mind numb with facts and my senses tingling at the sights, sounds, smells, and tastes of this great city. But as I sit here, three days after leaving, three days after my first attempt at writing this article, one thing has stuck with me above all of the rest, and that is Fes as the artisan capital of a culture that still truly values things made by hand. If you come to Fes and only experience this, you will have succeeded in capturing one of the real essences of this city.

Fes was founded in the year 789 by the Idrisid dynasty, but it is under the later rule of the Marinids from the 13th to 15th centuries that the city became what it is today. It was during this period that the Spanish Reconquista succeeded in driving Muslims out of the Iberian Peninsula, and they, along with expelled Jews, made the Marinid Moroccan capital their home, bringing with them the most skilled craftspeople in the Mediterranean, if not all of Europe at the time. So Fes flourished, and its beauty – and that of the products produced here – reflected it. 

All over Fes’ maze-like Medina are stunning buildings that offer a glimpse into Fes’ particular style of decoration. While some of these pre-date the Marinid golden age – and some post-date it – the style was largely developed during that period, with embellishments added to earlier buildings. There are three components that basically all of these buildings have in common: carved stucco/concrete designs, carved or painted cedar, and ceramic tile.

The best way to see these features is by visiting one of Fes’ madrasas. A madrasa is an Islamic school, and as far as I can tell, none of those in the Medina are still active. Rather, they serve as museums and art galleries. At Cherratine Madrasa, you can really get up close and personal with some spectacular decorations. Built in the late 17th century, is it downright modern compared to so much of this ancient city, but it gives visitors an idea of what these boarding schools would have been like. 

The carved stucco is easily the standout feature, surrounding all of the windows and doors. Consider that all of this was done by hand, by memory, without a pattern, and how quickly it needed to be done before it dried. 

And a look up in the prayer nave of the madrasa reveals a stunning ceiling in cedar wood. The geometric design is incredibly traditional; much of Morocco uses stars interlaced with flowers.

While the tile flooring here in Cherratine Madrasa isn’t all that impressive, ceramic tile is something still very much produced in Fes. (Some others of the traditional items are, as well, but not in nearly the quantity or variety.) I stop by one of the “factories” producing handmade and hand painted ceramic for a demonstration. As with the other features mentioned, it is important to note that no patterns are used. The artists lay the tiles by memory, face down, and won’t know if they made a mistake until the entire piece is complete. And with a large tabletop running in the thousands of dollars US, those would be very expensive gaffes.

Wandering Fes’ souks reveals even more artisans plying their traditional trades. Copper workers hand pound vessels with hammers in one square, with a clang that can be heard for quite a distance. Along another alley, metal workers sharpen knives by hand with actual stone grindstones they power with foot pedals. Gold workers, weavers, and crafters of all types have homes here.

But these old ways of creating art – and everyday objects – are quickly coming to an end. With the rapid modernization of Morocco and the availability of both higher education and better paying (and easier) jobs, very few young men and women want to spend their time hand making things. And when one considers that factory-produced objects can be had for cheaper, we are really talking about handmade items being more novelty souvenirs for tourists. So while it is totally understandable that few want to dedicate their lives to such art, it is also a bit sad. 

Of course, for so many who come to Fes in search of handmade artisan crafts, leather is at the top of the list. In any exploration of the Medina, visiting a tannery has to be included. Here, animal skins are treated before local artists turn them – by hand – into some of the best quality jackets, purses, wallets, and more. These tanneries have existed since the city’s founding, with families owning a series of vats for the multi-day process. 

The smell can be intense, especially in the heat of the day, so visitors are provided with mint sprigs to sniff on while watching. Then it is time to shop. While leather goods can be found all over Fes, those at the stores connected to the tanneries are of the highest quality, and are always handmade.

Fes is so many things, and so many aspects of the city deserve to be talked about. It is an imperial city, a city of palaces. It is a city of education, featuring some of the best minds in history, like the famous Jewish scholar Maimonides. It is a city of food, from the chicken pastilla (a sweet/savory pie that is my favorite Moroccan dish) to fresh sweets. 

But it is the crafts that make this city truly special. Whether you want to shop, or just to watch, Fes, city of artisans, will certainly be a rewarding visit.

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