In the 1930s, the great age of American railways was coming to an end, as with the end of World War Two, automobile dominance would become ascendant, never to look back. While most major American cities already had their monumental rail stations constructed by this point, a couple stragglers made it in under the wire, so to speak. Los Angeles’ Union Station is considered to be the last of the great American railway stations. But just before that, this art deco masterpiece opened.

By the turn of the twentieth century, Cincinnati was one of the largest cities in the country. It’s 325,000 inhabitants ranked 10th, trailing only Saint Louis in terms of cities on the great American rivers. Transportation in the city was fairly efficient, with a streetcar system that was electrified in 1889 that ultimately stretched 222 miles along several lines, and a series of inclined railways taking passengers up Cincinnati’s hills. (Cincinnati’s nickname of the Queen City actually comes from those hills, representing the points on a crown.)

Heavy railroad utilized several stations all over the Cincinnati area, but the city had no single rail hub. So in 1927, plans were drawn up for a central terminal, at which six of the city’s seven rail lines would terminate, and one – the Baltimore and Ohio – would operate as through service. (The B and O routing would ultimately become the Amtrak line currently in existence.) The streetcar system would also connect to what would become Union Terminal, allowing a large and important city to more effectively move people in and out.

Union Terminal opened in 1933, ahead of schedule. Unfortunately, while it was ahead of its own construction schedule, it came a bit too late from a historic standpoint. By 1962, only 24 trains arrived each day (capacity was for more than 100), and the huge footprint of the station meant a mostly empty – albeit beautiful – building, as train travel became mostly a thing of the past. By 1972, the Union Terminal had all but closed, being saved from demolition only by its status as a historic landmark.

In the 1980s, following a brief run as a shopping mall, Union Terminal got new tenants. Several local museums came together with the city of Cincinnati to turn the building into what it is now: the Cincinnati Museum Center, headlined by the Cincinnati History Museum and the Cincinnati Museum of Natural History. The revenue allowed for renovations to the building, and Amtrak service even returned in 1991!

Today, the Cincinnati Museum Center at Union Terminal is one of the most popular regional attractions. It is home to four full museums, the city’s history archives, and the Lindner Omnimax Theatre. With combined admission and membership, it offers hours of interesting experiences for both locals and visitors. But the highlight is Union Terminal itself, much of which can be seen in the central concourse area before each museum’s individual entry and ticket check.

The main facade of the building looks sort of like the top of a jukebox. It has carved reliefs to either side, and the central two of its eight “pillars” that break up the frosted glass windows holds up a huge clock face. The building sits at the end of a curved drive with landscaped fountains (off for winter) in its middle.

From the main entrance, one can also turn back to get a beautiful view of the city skyline, probably one of the best from within Ohio. (The absolute best views are from the Kentucky side of the Ohio River.)

While the exterior is relatively simple, and done in a subdued style, the interior is not. Once inside, the central rotunda’s pastels and a series of yellow/gold/orange concentric circles leading up the dome provide a sharp contrast to the glass and concrete outside. While the dome seems small, it is actually one of the largest semi-domes anywhere, measuring 180 feet across and 106 feet tall. (I am told it’s the largest in the western hemisphere.)

The dominant feature of the rotunda, though, is a series of huge mosaics by Winold Reiss. These depict the history of Cincinnati, the history of the US, and other industries. (While some are still actively on display here, others are in the nearby Cincinnati History Museum, which we will talk about in a moment.)

The two main historical mural mosaics are each over 100 feet long, one to each side of the pathway leading to the tracks.

The information desk is original, now hosting the ticket counter for the Cincinnati Museum Center.

It is a huge, airy, overwhelming space, one that absolutely demands time to truly see. Architectural and historical tours are also offered, given by volunteers, for those who want additional information and access to other areas of the original Union Terminal.

For most visitors, however, it is the museums that beckon. In addition to the Cincinnati History Museum and the Cincinnati Museum of Natural History, the Cincinnati Children’s Museum and the Nancy and David Wolf Holocaust and Humanity Center are housed here. All seem amazing, but my interests take me to the Cincinnati History Museum to get some context for this city and the beautiful station.

While the entire museum is done well (and a new exhibit dedicated to native history of the region is in process), the easy highlights are Cincinnati in Motion and Public Landing.

Cincinnati in Motion is a scale model of downtown Cincinnati in the 1940s with working streetcars and inclined trains, as well as changing lighting as the exhibition alternates between day and night. Walkways both circle and cut through the huge room, allowing for close-up views of specific areas and buildings.

Some of the most iconic and beautiful buildings from central Cincinnati are done in perfect detail, like the 1878 Cincinnati Music Hall, Proctor and Gamble Headquarters, and even Union Terminal itself.

For more immersion, head to Public Landing, located on the lower level. This recreation of the docks (called Public Landing) on the Ohio River in the 1850s is done in exquisite detail, with exhibits about specific aspects of nineteenth century life in Cincinnati in associated shops along the cobblestone streets. A furniture store houses an exhibit of local furniture, and so on.

Water marks on the river-facing buildings even show the level of the Ohio’s major flooding. The entire exhibit is immersive, and absolutely fun for adults in addition to children.

If history is your thing, and you find yourself in Cincinnati, a day spent at one of the city’s most iconic and beautiful structures that happens to house its local historic museum is a day that must be on your agenda. And even if not, exploring a stunning train station is always a good time!

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