February is nearly upon us, and with the changing of the month, my time in Marseille is drawing to a close. Up next: the wine capital of France - and the city voted most livable in the country - Bordeaux. However, as with my itinerary here in the south, I won't be confined to just…
When I announced that I would be spending a month in the Southern French city of Marseille, it was met with some disbelief and bewilderment. "But Marseille is dangerous," some said. "Marseille is dirty," cried others. As my month here comes to an end, I can safely and confidently share that I made the right…
In 1305, Pope Clement V, under pressure from King Phillipe IV of France, refused to move to Rome and instead established his court at Avignon, where he purchased the city and its surroundings from the Provençal ruler. This began the only period of popes ruling from outside Rome, and led to decades of competing popes.…
Marseille is not a city of incredible sights. There are few monuments to its glory, present or past; only a couple of "must-visit" locations exist to tantalize tourists. No, this is not a city of sights. Marseille is, however, a city of sounds, of the calls of seabirds and the melodious tones of French in…
Marseille is France's second largest city and largest port. But did you know it is also the oldest city in France? Built around a narrow inlet off the Mediterranean Sea and sheltered by the nearby Frioul Islands, the city has undergone massive changes over the centuries, both positive and negative, but the importance of trade…
Thinking of Southern France evokes images of sandy beaches and blue waters, and it has those in spades. However, for those who desire a bit more history and culture, just a short one hour train ride (or two hours by bus) from your base in Marseille lies Nimes, home to some of the best preserved…
Walking outside of my apartment on my first morning here in Marseille, I was greeted by the facade of a savonnerie, a soap store. Odd, I thought to myself, to have Savon de Marseille (Soap of Marseille) advertised so publicly. I resolved to return, but I had an appointment. About half a block down the…
While jet lag has its tentacles in me, I have arrived safe and sound in Marseille. France's second largest city and one of the most important Mediterranean ports, Marseille is a bit gritty, multi-cultural, and so far, absolutely wonderful. I will be here for a month, using the city as my base to explore the…
With the start of 2019, I am going to be traveling more, and a bit differently than in the past. I have rented out my house and am off on some longer journeys than I have undertaken before. My first stop: three months in France! To start, yes, I am skipping Paris. I have already…