Ragusa and Modica, Sicily

Can there possibly be a more Italian activity than this? The steep streets of Modica in southeastern Sicily are too narrow for most cars to pass. But not these. I’m in the fourth car of an eight car convoy touring the hilly old city, bouncing along with mere inches of room on either side as…

Sicily’s Valley of the Temples

Well, it isn’t a valley. That is my first thought upon arriving at Sicily’s top tourist attraction, the Valley of the Temples. Rather, the three temples I’ll visit on the day are on a ridge. Odd, right? My second thought is, quite simply, wow. The ridge from where I stand to another temple The Valley…

Syracuse, Sicily: You Can Skip It

On my recent Sicily tour, our group’s day in Syracuse was one I was looking forward to. Syracuse has a rich history, being one of the most powerful Greek city-states, home to the famed Archimedes, and even serving as the capital of the Byzantine Empire for a brief period. What I found, while not bad…

Motya and Phoenician Sicily

In approximately 800 BCE, a highly sophisticated culture of navigators and traders from what is now Lebanon landed on the northeastern tip of Sicily. They built a trading colony on a small island in the middle of a shallow lagoon. For the next 400 years, Motya (Mozia in Italian) would be one of the most…

Sicily and the Mafia

Would I turn my father in? That’s the question going through my head as I listen to Angelo Provenzano talk, part of my Sicilian tour’s commitment to controversial topics, this one being on the mafia. Angelo is the son of Bernardo Provenzano, former boss of the Cosa Nostra, the Corleone-based mafia here in Sicily. Would…

Castelbuono, Sicily

Gina isn’t exactly a normal welcome ambassador to a town. But then again, Castelbuono isn’t exactly a normal town. Unlike many hilltop - or hillside - towns in Sicily, Castelbuono is not just surviving, but thriving. So many similar towns are so desperate for people to move there that they offer houses for €1, as…

Arab-Norman Palermo

Palermo, the capital of and largest city in Sicily, has a history that dates back thousands of years. Phoenician, Greek, Roman, Byzantine… all of these civilizations had settlements or large cities here. But the golden age of Palermo, and indeed all of Sicily, began with the Arab conquest of the island starting in 826. Palermo…

Trip Itinerary: Sicily

Last summer, I spent a bit over two months in Italy. But the entire time was spent on the mainland, ranging from Naples in the south to Milan in the north. I loved my time, loved Italian culture, loved the food. I loved the chaos less. But all in all, it was amazing. So when…