I am currently sitting on a train from Florence to Milan, one that happens to be about 80 minutes delayed. I’ve been meaning to write about train travel in Europe, so this seems like a good time to do so. My seat is comfortable, wifi seems stable, and my lunch has long since been eaten, so let’s use the time productively. Soon (hopefully), I’ll be zipping along at close to 170 miles per hour, heading toward my next stop here in Italy.

For many Americans, train travel is a bit of a mystery. Ours is a culture of driving and flying, and we don’t have much of a passenger rail system at all, let alone one that is efficient. So for some who visit Europe, the exigencies of travel by rail create some anxiety. This guide will try to put some of those fears to rest; after all, it is quite simple (albeit hectic at times) to travel Europe by train.

Routes

Most Western European countries have a hub and spoke rail system. Major cities connect to each other via high-speed (how high depends on the country) intercity trains, and to local destinations using slower regional trains. That doesn’t mean that going from one major city to another is always a direct train. You will sometimes have to change. Here in Italy, most of the major cities (Naples, Rome, Florence, Bologna, Milan) are connected via a single route. To get to a smaller or less popular city (Pisa, for instance), you’ll take a regional train from the nearest hub, which in this case is Florence. (Yes there are other routes connecting to Pisa, but this is the simplest way to explain it.)

This system holds true in most European countries. Those with efficient rail systems have stations in many small towns, let alone larger cities, making rail travel able to reach most places you’ll want to visit. Not all, though.

Tickets

While airline tickets must be purchased a long time in advance, most rail tickets in Europe can only be bought roughly three months out. But unless you are 100% positive that you want a single specific train, you can typically wait much longer. I normally buy my tickets for intercity trains a week or two prior, and my regional tickets either the day before or even at the station when I arrive. (For a day trip, it is nice not to have a particular return train you have to catch, so booking at the station allows for the most flexibility.)

Each country’s rail system (and each privatized rail line) has its own website, but there are a couple conglomerate sites I typically check: TrainLine and Omio. Each charges a small processing fee, but offers all options regardless of public or private line, as well as bus routings, which can sometimes be cheaper and even faster. Omio is my go-to, and it has an easy-to-use English app, mobile tickets as well as printable, and some updates as to delays. (Just note that your mobile ticket will not have your seat number if you have an assigned seat, so you’ll need to also check the printable version for that.)

Tickets can be cheap, €10-15 each way for a regional train, or expensive (I’ve paid well over €100 for a complicated intercity itinerary) depending on country, line, route, and more. Typically the faster a train is the more expensive the ticket, so if you are worried about price and have extra time, you can save some money with a slower regional train or a change or two.

Speaking of changes, while forty or so minutes seems to be the shortest connection airlines allow, some train itineraries in Europe will try to give you connections of ten minutes or less. I typically try to make sure my connections are at least 25 minutes. (If your train is late and you miss your connection, you can go to the ticket office and they will more than likely give you a new ticket for the next train.) It is also worth making absolutely certain you don’t need to change stations. Some cities have rail stations that only serve trains going specific directions (London and Paris are on this list) so you might have to change stations if you change trains. Likewise, a few cities like Birmingham have a main station that serves intercity trains and a smaller that holds the regional ones.)

Stations

Small train stations are easy to navigate because they likely only have a few tracks. But for larger stations, it can seem a bit hectic. Unlike airports, there is no security to enter the station. You may or may not have your ticket checked to enter the part of the station where the trains are. You’ll have a large digital board or series of screens listing upcoming trains and their platform number. It is common for your train not to have a platform until ten minutes beforehand in some countries, so be prepared to spend some time standing with the crowd of people staring at the list, hoping for an update.

There will almost certainly be a bar or cafe of some sort, and maybe some shops. Restrooms will be available at the stations, but in most of Europe, it will cost you €1 or so to use one.

When your platform is listed, you’ll deal with a rush of people headed to the train. At many larger stations, screens on the platform will tell you what train car stops where, so you will know where to find your specific seat in the case of an intercity train with one assigned. There may be few places to sit, either on the platform or in the station itself, so be prepared for that. And in some countries, people will be smoking on the platform despite signs saying not to.

Onboard

First off, trains in Europe do not have checked luggage. You will have to get your own bags on and off. There will probably be a few steps, although for those in wheelchairs most stations have a contraption they will bring around to allow you to be able to get on. Baggage will be stored either in racks by the entrances, overhead shelves, between back-to-back seats, or on your lap. Regional trains might not have much storage space at all, so you may be stuck standing with your bags.

Intercity trains normally have seat assignments and therefore operate at a specific capacity. Many regional trains will sell as many tickets as are wanted, and I’ve had to stand on a multi-hour train before. Some trains will offer premium or first class tickets, which will typically consist of wider and more comfortable seats, newspapers, and maybe snacks. I’ve never splurged for those.

Most trains have lavatories onboard, but not all. These range from being in every car to just being at the very front or back of the train as a whole. Food may be available on intercity trains, but you’ll have to find it. On occasion, an enterprising person will sell food or drinks walking down the aisle. These are not associated with the train company in most of Europe.

Depending on the train, route, country, or technical issues, stops may or may not be announced. Some trains will have screens telling you what station is next; others won’t. Stops can be as short as a minute or two, so if yours is coming, make sure to be ready, and perhaps make your way toward the door. The door may not open automatically. Press the green button to do so.

Keep your tickets handy. At random times you’ll be asked for them. And if the train crosses country lines, even within the EU, you may need to show your passport so have that available as well.

Wifi may or may not be available depending on the train. Seats can face forward or backward. Sometimes you are in a single row; other times you’ll be facing another row. You just never know what the train experience will be, and that’s part of the fun.

In all, I like train travel more than air. It is more comfortable, there are no luggage or liquid restrictions, and I can watch the countryside go by. But traveling Europe by rail took some getting used to. I hope this helps take some of the anxiety out of it for you.

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