Editor’s note: when visiting a major city, I like to plan at least one day trip. It’s a pleasant change of scenery and pace, as well as a chance to see something new while not changing my lodging. This day trip from Bangkok to Ayutthaya is exactly the sort of thing I’d love, and I’m so grateful to Sam Spector for introducing me to it. For more of Sam’s adventures, click here to visit his index page.
The city of Bangkok has so much to see and do, but it can also be a great jumping off spot for numerous day trips. If you want a bit of adventure, a bit of nature, and a lot of history, then perhaps the best one to do is to the Bang Pa-In Royal Palace and Ayutthaya. Thailand is the only Southeast Asian country to never be conquered and colonized by Europeans and was known as the Kingdom of Siam prior to 1939 (and also for a few years post-World War II). The Siamese Kingdoms began in 1238 with the establishment of the Sukhothai Kingdom, which is another place that can be visited on a day trip from Bangkok, though it is a bit farther away. Following the fall of the Sukhotai Kingdom in 1351, the Ayutthaya Kingdom was established and the capital was moved to Ayutthaya, an hour or so north of Bangkok. The Ayutthaya Kingdom was the longest lasting of any of the Siamese Kingdoms, lasting over 400 years from 1351 until 1767, and alongside the Chinese and the Vijayanagar in Southern India, was the strongest kingdom in Eastern Asia of that time.
Upon arriving at the Ayutthaya Historical Park, designated an UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991, you will see orange and red bricks that were used to build a vast complex of large Buddhist temples. The park itself is large and covers many sights, and requires a car or bus to visit the highlights. One place that is a must stop within the park is Wat Mahathat, which dates back to 1374. In this forested complex, there are numerous temples and there were many Buddha statues. However, when the Burmese conquered Ayutthaya in 1767, they desecrated the Buddha statues by beheading them, and burned many of the temples. One of the heads of the Buddha was discarded and buried under dirt. However, hundreds of years later, the head got wrapped up in the roots of a banyan tree and pulled above ground, face up towards people passing by. This Buddha head marvel has become one of the symbols of Thailand, and is one of the most photographed items in the country.

Immediately to the north of Wat Mahathat is Wat Ratchaburana. This temple was built in 1424 on the cremation site of the two elder brothers of the king, who had fought to their deaths in a battle with each other over who would succeed their father as king. This site contains influences from Sukhothai and Khmer, as well as Sri Lankan stupas, hemispherical structures that once contained Buddhist relics, that were largely looted. In the center of the site is a prang spire, one of the best preserved in Ayutthaya.

From these sites, other places one should stop in the historical park are Wat Lokayasutharam and Wat Na Phra Men. Wat Lokayasutharam is a great place to stop when you need a break as there are restrooms, food stands, and people selling coconut milk. Yet, there is one major site that is there, and that is a 42 meter reclining Buddha, made of bricks and covered in plaster. Despite being over 600 years old, it is still in pristine condition. While it was bare when I went, it is sometimes covered in an orange or golden robe.

Wat Na Phra Men was one of the few temples of Ayutthaya that was not burned in the Burmese sack of the city. It was renovated by the subsequent kingdom, Rattanakosin (1767-1851). At a certain point, the temple was converted to a Hindu structure, as evidenced by the 164 foot tall ordination hall’s Lord Vishnu statue mounted atop the demon Rahu and flanked by 26 devas. The interior ceiling is made of carved wood with colored glass decorating it, while the exterior has white columns and a golden roof. Inside the ordination hall is a 19th century nearly 20 foot tall sitting golden Buddha dressed in royal attire. Also in the temple is the Phra Khanthararaj, a Buddha that is carved into a green stone that is 1500 years old; it is one of five in the whole nation of Thailand. At the Phra Khanthararaj there is a Buddhist monk who will give blessings to visitors to the shrine.

Tours of Ayutthaya will often be combined with the Bang Pa-In Royal Palace. Though the palace’s origins date back to the 17th century, the current structures are largely from the late 19th century. The palace became the summer residence of Thai kings, escaping the hustle and bustle of the newer capital of Bangkok, as well as its mugginess. The palace grounds are beautiful and have continued to be a host to foreign royalty when they visit Thailand. Make sure to see the residences, go up the Sage’s Lookout stupa for a view of the whole complex, and the Chinese Buddhist Heavenly Light Temple used by the kings for worship. Being next to the Chao Phraya River, the architects of the complex were able to divert water to form a moat around the complex, providing a charming feeling of being in nature with a golden gazebo shrine built atop the water. As a result of this water, there was a plethora of wildlife at the complex, where I spotted turtles, monitor lizards, and owls.

Returning to Bangkok is best done by floating down the Chao Phraya River past small Thai villages, some that have homes built on stilts on the river. Along the river, you will see many large statues of the Buddha. One of the more unique ones is a massive Buddha sitting atop a seven-headed snake. According to legend, the Buddha was meditating and was in such a deep trance that he was unaware that there was a flood occurring around him. It was then that the seven-headed snake coiled underneath him, saving his life. While the riverboat journey was beautiful, it was scary as well. The large ship we were on had a deck on top where most people stood to watch the view. When approaching the beautiful bridges of the river at a fast speed, we realized only seconds in advance that while the boat would go under the bridges, it would do so by only a few feet and that those of us standing would not. We all hit the deck, except for a small child, and his head missed the bridge by only a mere few inches, which would have caused serious injury if not death. This was one of several times we had to duck, so be mindful if you do take such a journey. At long last, after a couple hours, we entered Bangkok via the river, providing a beautiful entry into the great city.

While Bangkok is a fascinating city with so much to see and do, make sure you get out and do some day trips, and when you do, be sure to add Ayutthaya and the other highlights of its district to your itinerary for a great day of history, culture, and beauty.
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