Normally, I am a planner when it comes to my travel. Whether I spend a month in a place, or a day, or just a few hours, I am fairly meticulous with my research. I have a list of things I might want to see – the list is always more than I’ll get to, no matter how much time I have – and some background on what makes a specific destination interesting. I have sights marked on Google maps, along with places to eat, so that I can be efficient in my movements.

So this is a rather different feeling for me, having decided to visit Ghent less than 24 hours before doing it. The purpose of being here is the Delirium Brewery in nearby Melle, and the decision to start my day with a few hours in Ghent before my 2pm brewery tour is one that is spontaneous, only after looking at a map and realizing how close it is. I do about ten minutes of searching, find that there is a central area with some cool buildings, and mark the general vicinity on Google maps as “Ghent stuff.” Then I go to bed, since I’ll need to get up rather early to even have three hours before needing to go back to the train to head to Melle.

Ghent’s train station is a decent trek from the center, so my Google maps pin comes in handy to direct me on the tram. Stepping off, I am immediately greeted by towers. Lots of towers. If the medieval Flemish did one thing well (and as far as I can tell they did a lot well), it is towers. It is just after 9am, so I wander the towers until I find one connected to a building that is open: Ghent Cathedral, or Saint Bavo’s.

Completed in 1569, the cathedral is impressive, both from the inside and outside. It stands to just under 300 feet at the spire, and is best known for the altarpiece, referred to in signage as the Mystic Lamb since that is apparently the subject. There is an admission fee to see that, but it is only open after 1230pm, at least on this random Monday in October, and I’ll be on my way back to the station by then. So I just gaze at the beauty of the church, then head in search of another open building, stopping for tea on my way.

Ghent is Belgium’s second largest city, and third largest metro area, but it is small by most standards, at around 250,000. But that size belies its storied past, peaking in the early Middle Ages, where in the thirteenth century (when construction on Saint Bavo’s began), Ghent was the second largest city in Europe north of the Alps (to Paris). It served as the leading city in Europe for cloth during this period, producing so much that local sheep were not enough to provide enough wool, so the port at Bruges imported it from abroad. As a result, all of Flanders (Ghent served as a seat for the County for a period) thrived on trade, hence the money to build such magnificent buildings.

Most tower-connected buildings seem to open at 10, so with my tea done, I head to the most impressive of them, the Belfry of Ghent. This magnificent edifice was a watchtower completed in 1380 (when a dragon was placed atop the tower). In 1445, an adjacent hall was constructed to house the cloth guild, showing the importance of that to the city. The tower is able to be climbed, and has an elevator that one is asked to use for the journey up with stairs (very narrow so go slowly) to go back down.

The view from the top is breathtaking, and the sound of the tower’s bells is a wonderful way to celebrate the city from 300 feet up!

On the other side of the Belfry sits another church with, yes, another tower. (Sensing a pattern? When in Ghent, just follow the towers and you won’t be disappointed.) St. Nicholas Church was also started in the thirteenth century. I love the stone archways inside, but the altar is probably the most impressive feature, especially from behind.

Ghent sits at the convergence of the Leie and Scheldt rivers, with the Leie running through the old town. After exploring the tower buildings, I walk along both sides of the river. Here, centered on St. Michael’s Bridge (the same-named church is not open on Mondays), sit some of Ghent’s best preserved buildings. Some of these are guildhalls; some are not. All are pretty and it is worth walking and taking photos.

I am quickly running out of time before needing to head back to the train station and to Melle, so lunch seems in order. A quick google search of Flemish specialties nets the result Waterzooi, a stew of chicken, potatoes, leeks, and cream. On a cold day, that sounds excellent, and it seems all of the restaurants along the main squares by the towers serve it. Fortunately, a couple are even open before noon since I have a schedule. I pair it with a local beer (when in Belgium, after all).

There is more to do in Ghent, obviously. Gravensteen Castle (which I see from atop the Belfry but don’t venture closer), a well-regarded fine arts museum of Flemish masters, and a textile museum are just a few that post-visit research has found, and things I’d gladly return for. After all, since it’s just a half hour outside Brussels, Ghent makes an easy day trip.

I head back to the station via tram, and then to Melle for my brewery tour. Despite having done no research or preparation, my morning in Ghent was lovely. The city’s historic core is charming, full of cool buildings with great towers. I wish I’d had a few more hours!

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