Even in paradise, sometimes weather doesn’t cooperate. I am on the beautiful island of Kauai, on a day I am meant to spend snorkeling, but the rain has started, and isn’t expected to stop until well after dinner. In Hawaii, with so much centered on being outside, it is nice to have a backup plan for those days where the rains are more than just a brief downpour between sunny periods.
Fortunately, just a few minutes from the airport in Lihue, Kauai has a small museum dedicated to the history and culture of the island. At $15, admission is on the steep side, but one doesn’t come to Hawaii to save money, so here I am. The building itself is lovely, having originally opened in 1924 as a library. A statue outside depicts the last rulers of an independent Kauai, King Kaumuali’i and Queen Kekaiha’akulou. Their reign ended in 1821 with the final conquest of Hawaiian King Kamehameha the Great, as I will soon find out inside.
The Kauai Museum is a bit chaotic, but reasonably thorough. Exhibits range from native life pre-annexation, to the royal families of the island and the Kingdom of Hawaii, to more modern history, and even to the geological formation of the island and its habitats.
Within the main building, which focuses on the pre-American history of the island, artifacts are minimal. Rather, stories are told mainly through recreations and paintings. And while some of the names get confusing, the general story is able to be followed via a series of informative panels. It goes a bit like this.
Like the other islands, Kauai had a ruling class. Called ali’i, these nobles functioned as tribal chieftains. From among those, a high chief, or ali’i nui, was chosen to be the overall ruler of the island. (Nearby Ni’ihau, which was barely inhabited, was also under the domain of the Kauai rulers.)
In 1795, Kamehameha I began his conquest of the islands from his base on the big island of Hawaii. Kauai, being the most remote (it sits at the northwest end of the chain, and is separated from Oahu by roughly 70 miles), was the last to be attacked. Kamehameha attacked first in 1796, shortly after Kaumauli’i became king of Kauai. That attack was repelled, as was another in 1803.
However, Kaumauli’i realized that Kauai couldn’t hold off indefinitely. Kamehameha had an advantage in manpower, naval power, and especially in modern weaponry. So in 1810, Kaumauli’i negotiated a bloodless surrender to Kamehameha, whereby he would remain the local king but under the authority of the now-ruler of all of Hawaii. He also agreed to have his reign be the last of Kauai, with no other local kings to come after.
The Kauai Museum tells this story over the course of a number of story boards and paintings, mainly of Kaumauli’i and his son. Others show the chieftain meeting with Kamehameha. But the highlight is the ceremonial cape worn by the king, lined with colorful feathers. I am unable to tell if it is original or a replica, but it is stunning regardless.
Of course, the story of Kauai doesn’t end with its incorporation into the Kingdom of Hawaii. The museum also traces the dynasty of Kamehameha through to American annexation of Hawaii in 1893 during the reign of Queen Lili’uokalani. This includes a family tree of the current members of the monarchy, which is obviously not in existence in a practical sense.
A second building runs through some of Kauai’s more cultural aspects. It covers ranching, plantations (coffee and pineapple mainly), and even the surfing heritage of the island (and Hawaii as a whole). There is also a small room dedicated to World War Two and its effects here on Kauai.
An hour and a half later, the rain is still coming down. But while the weather prevented me from pursuing my original plan for the day, the Kauai Museum in Lihue was a solid backup. For most visitors to the Garden Island, indoor activities are an afterthought – if a thought at all. But beyond the natural beauty of Kauai is an interesting history, one I knew absolutely zero about before making my visit here. So yes, it was worth it, especially on a rainy day.
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