Remnants of colonial cities in the Americas can be very hit or miss. Some are not in terrific shape, like that in Santo Domingo (outside of a very central core that is truly awesome). Others, like San Juan, are gorgeous, but only play host to tourists, making the experience – while lovely – feel a bit inauthentic. And then there is this place, Cartagena, Colombia. Here, it feels like it’s mostly been done right.

Cartagena de Indias was founded by the Spanish in 1533, making it a bit more “modern” than some of the Caribbean colonial outposts. However, its location close to the narrow Panama isthmus and its huge natural harbor soon made the city one of the most important to Spain’s new world empire, and a target of the other colonial powers. The city was attacked by both the French and English, leading to huge fortifications being constructed both around the city and at strategic points to guard land and sea routes for what would become one of the principal Spanish ports for the import of slaves to the Americas and the export of riches back to Spain.

After roughly a quarter of the city was razed by Sir Francis Drake in 1574, the Spanish crown poured money into construction of Cartagena’s city walls. While they wouldn’t be “finished,” until 1796, the first go was done in 1614. (Subsequent expansions would strengthen the walls, add fortifications and gates, and extend the walls to enclose the newer community of Getsemani to the south of the original city.) Today, Cartagena’s Old City largely refers to the area inside the original walls, but for most also includes Getsemani to the south and the imposing San Felipe fortress (more on those in a bit).

The majority of Cartagena’s wall still exists, and much of that can be walked, although visitors will have to descend and re-ascend at several points to continue the wall walk. The imposing stone fortifications are lined with reconstructed structures that provided shade to soldiers on duty, and dotted with watchtowers (those who have been to San Juan will recognize the iconic shape of these, which makes sense since it was the same basic architectural plan). And best of all, the walls provide some epic sunset views. Many visitors will wait in line for the overpriced and loud – but perfectly located – Cafe del Mar, but I’d recommend eating and drinking either before or after sunset at one of any number of places in the Old City, and just using the aforementioned cafe as a reference point to orientate for sunset. Vendors will approach you to sell water or beer if you get thirsty waiting.

Within the walls, Cartagena’s Old City is beautifully kept up. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1984, the city is clean, the buildings are stunning (make sure to look up to see the incredible balconies, and down to notice the cool doors with ornate knockers – lizards mean nobility, while lions marked the homes of military leaders), and the small parks provide a nice respite. One of the best ways to start an exploration of the Old City is with a free walking tour, and I find one through Free Tour Cartagena that lasts about two hours. (Please remember to tip if you do a free tour like this.) While the tour doesn’t enter any buildings, it skirts the outside of some of the Old City’s most important sites, talking about the history of the city as it does so.

From a visual standpoint, a highlight of Cartagena’s Old City is the cathedral, although the interior isn’t anything special. The same thing goes for San Pedro Claver, named for a priest who worked with African slaves to try to improve their conditions. (A monument to the saint just outside the church is lovely.) If you don’t make it inside of either one, don’t sweat it. Just enjoy the exteriors, and the pretty squares surrounding them.

Cartagena was one of three Spanish colonial cities in the Americas to host a full outpost of the infamous Inquisition (along with Lima and Mexico City), showing the importance of the city regionally as the centerpiece of the Church’s power. The former headquarters of the Inquisition is now a small museum to both that dreaded institution as well as some of the history of the city. Located on Plaza de Bolívar (once Plaza Mayor, the central square of the colonial city, and now named for the Liberator as are so many other things in South America), the museum is worth a brief visit, although less than 25% of the signage is in English. Just be aware it closes for a lunch break in the middle of the day.

Today, nobody lives full time inside the original walled city. Rather, it plays home to hotels, restaurants, and shops. But unlike some such areas, this one is not only enjoyed by tourists. I am amazed how many people here, especially at night, are locals, just out making the best of the warm evenings, plentiful restaurant options, and wonderful street food. (Tourists are probably scared of eating arepas – stuffed fried savory cakes made from coarse corn meal – from a random cart, and I am the only English speaker at one I find as far as I can tell, trying to get my order in for the insanely good arepas con huevo, stuffed with meat and egg, along with whatever the white and green sauces are from squeeze bottles being passed around.) I love this aspect of Cartagena, that such a wonderful and beautiful part of the city and its history isn’t seen as just a place for tourists.

Passing under the Torre del Reloj, an 18th century clock tower over what was the sole gate to the city at the time, one reaches Getsemani. Once a poor neighborhood and now a hipster gentrified part of the city, Getsemani is a cheaper area to eat and drink in, although it can be a bit less safe at night than the original Old City. But during the day, it’s worth wandering the streets to see the murals, colorful buildings, and the young scene. And if you like wildlife but don’t want to venture outside the city, Parque del Centenario is an urban oasis that has iguanas, sloths, and monkeys inside of it. Just follow where people are gathered and pointing.

As Cartagena outgrew its original walls, Getsemani (then an island) was also walled. These are smaller and less visible than the older and larger fortifications around the original Old City, but mean that this neighborhood where some people actually still live is nearly as old.

Just to the south of Getsemani is the mighty fortress of San Felipe. If you pay entry to one thing in Cartagena, this should be it. It is a steep walk up the ramp to the top levels of the fortress complex, which protected the land route to the city, but the views from the top are alone worth the admission price. And signage is in English (and Spanish, of course), making the history of the huge fortifications accessible to visitors.

The original fort was build in 1536, but expanded drastically over the centuries to include a series of “this battery protects this one” ramparts and fortifications stretching down and around one of the tallest hills in Cartagena. Most of these batteries are able to be accessed via a series of ramps and staircases, though tunnels (also able to be visited) don’t always lead to anything but a dead end, so be careful. Additional forts were built to protect Cartagena from the water, where the harbor was accessed by channels to either side of Tierra Bomba island, and through the no-longer-existing Bocagrande Canal.

Beyond those few specific sights, the most pleasant part of Cartagena’s Old City is just strolling the streets. Each one offers different shops (or you can visit the artisan stalls of Las Bovedas, former storehouses and barracks built into a portion of the wall in the northeastern corner of the walled city), cafes, restaurants, and historic buildings. Be careful to dodge traffic, as the Old City has not been pedestrianized, as well as horse-drawn carriages catering to tourists (these don’t seem to be out on Sundays). Find a green square to sit in, a good cup of coffee or a drink, and enjoy.

In the world of colonial old cities, Cartagena sits at or near the top of the heap. It is beautiful, clean, safe, open to more than just tourists, and offers the easiest starting point to explore a great historic city.

Thank you so much to Corpoturismo Cartagena for sponsoring my admission to both the museum and fortress.

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