I’ve spent the past several hours writing and re-writing this article, and yet here I am starting over. I pride myself on finding deeper meaning in the things I do, in seeking out those little nuggets of history or a cultural gem, things that bring learning to something that most don’t associate with it. But even I have to admit that sometimes those efforts fail, and that sometimes fun, beauty, and relaxation matter more. This is one of those times.

My home base for this trip is Cartagena, Colombia. Cartagena is a lot of things: vibrant, beautiful, fascinating. It is also chaotic, loud, and a bit overwhelming at times. Fortunately, just a few miles (22 from the city) off the coast of this Caribbean metropolis lie the Rosario Islands, the perfect respite from the city.

In total, there are 27 islands in the archipelago, ranging from tiny coral outcrops to the aptly named Isla Grande (which our writer Sam wrote about a while back; click here to read about it). The entire area is a national park, mainly to protect the coral reef, one of the most important in Colombia. But it isn’t like a national park by American standards; the islands are incredibly popular for day-trippers and over-nighters for both their natural scenery and their party vibe. Many of the islands are filled with beach clubs.

Clubs are not my scene, so I know immediately that the day trip idea is probably not going to work for my relaxation and reset. So I decide on a boutique hotel/resort. Between a combination of Google and luck, I end up on an early morning boat to the Coralina Island Hotel. It is pricy, so I am only able to afford a single night to make my budget work, but from the moment the 40-ish person speedboat clears the Cartagena harbor, I know it’s going to be worth it. My head begins to clear, the water of the Caribbean surrounding me and the spray from the boat adding a glorious white to the blue of the sea and sky.

The ride is about ninety minutes (it can be a bit more or less depending on conditions). We first drop off the day-trippers (Coralina Island Hotel has two sides to it, with one having more of a beach for those who just come for the day; music there isn’t so loud, though, so even when I walk there to snorkel later it isn’t a club feel at all) and then dock around the peninsula at the hotel check in. Rooms aren’t ready; after all, those checking out today will take this same boat back to Cartagena, but not until 2pm or so, and it’s only 10am now, so each group is assigned a private area with lounge chairs, shade, and a table. Some are on the beach side and others along the rockier and deeper water, but all are lovely. Towels await, and we can do anything from relax to check out a free snorkel, kayak, or paddle board to spend the time.

Breakfast is included at Coralina Island, but other meals (and drinks beyond a welcome glass of wine, and ever-present coffee/water) are not. Fortunately, the food is good, and the outdoor dining room is beautiful. Of course, seafood is the specialty, from ceviche to seafood rice and all things between. But there are other options for those who aren’t huge fans of fish.

After lunch and several hours of relaxing with brief interludes of snorkeling, my room is ready. I would guess the property has about ten or so little cottages, outfitted with solid AC and mosquito nets over the beds (although in January I don’t think I’d have needed the netting). There is hot water, something intermittent even in my Cartagena Airbnb, and wifi, although I use my 28 or so hours on the island to unplug completely.

If you are looking for a resort with entertainment and all sorts of amenities, Coralina Island is not for you. While one can get drinks, food service ends at 8pm when the kitchen staff leaves the island for the night. There are no dance parties, or nighttime activities of any sort. There is a beautiful sunset visible from much of the hotel’s grounds, dinner, and then time to spend in the main pursuit one comes to the island for: pure relaxation.

During the day, day trips can be arranged to see more of the Rosario Islands (those cost money) or there are the aforementioned water accessories to check out for free. And you’ll have your reserved spot, the same one you got at check in, the entire time you stay. The boat back to Cartagena leaves around 2, with room check out at 11, so again you can just relax as you did following arrival. I do.

So no, there is nothing deeper to my experience in the Rosario Islands. I have nothing to offer in terms of the normal learning I pride myself on. But it’s still an experience I can highly recommend, especially if you have upwards of a week or two in Cartagena and the budget to spare. (My night, with food and transportation, came to about $400. So it is not cheap.) It is time and money I consider well spent, leaving me refreshed and ready to face the city’s craziness again upon my return.

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