There are no two ways around it – Tokyo is a world-class city. Cool sights, great modern culture, and some of the best food anywhere in the world… all of these make Tokyo more than just the gateway to Japan. It is a destination in and of itself, a city that is easily near the top of my list of all the places I’ve ever visited.

However, given its place as the most populous metro area in the world at nearly 40 million, as well as the relative lack of English compared to other major destinations, Tokyo can be daunting. This guide will endeavor to share my personal experiences from my two trips here. Please note that it is by no means a comprehensive list; the city has so much more to offer than is even remotely possible in my limited time. But it’s a start for you when it comes to planning your own travels here. And make sure to click the links throughout this guide to read more in-depth articles on specific aspects of Tokyo.

If you enjoy this guide, click here to see our Ultimate Guides from all over the world.

Getting There

If you are going to Japan, there is a 98% chance you will be flying into Tokyo. Yes, there is the occasional flight into Osaka, or a once-in-a-while cruise itinerary that doesn’t start here, but I’ll mostly dismiss those and focus on the air. Tokyo has two international airports.

Tokyo Narita is the larger of the two in terms of flights from the U.S. It is about an hour on the Narita Express from Tokyo Station, for a cost of about $40 depending on exchange rate. From there it can be another half hour or more to wherever you’re staying.

Tokyo Haneda is much closer into the city, though harder to find flights into. It is connected directly to the Tokyo transit system by a monorail, and you can typically be most places within the “main” parts of the city within a half hour or 45 minutes. All things equal, if you have a choice, pick Haneda.

Getting Around

If there is one thing Tokyo does better than any place in the world, it is transit. The system here makes that in London or New York seem woefully inadequate, not to mention antiquated, dirty, and unreliable. But it can be confusing.

Tokyo has above ground rail (JapanRail) lines, subway lines (Metro and Toei), buses, and other private rail lines. Tickets do not necessarily cross these boundaries, so if you are taking a surface train to a subway, it might involve two different tickets. My advice is to stick to one, and unless you get a JapanRail pass – with the 2024 price increases, they are not worthwhile unless you are doing near daily trips out of town on the Shinkansen bullet trains – the Tokyo Metro subway system is probably best and most convenient.

Regardless of train (not bus) system, there are some commonalities. Tickets are purchased ahead of time at a machine (or you can get a reloadable card called an IC card). The machines only take cash for local lines, though credit cards are accepted for the Shinkansen. You can look up which station you are headed to, and then you’ll be charged accordingly. Buttons on the left side allow you to select the number of tickets you want to purchase, though on older machines it maxes at three adults or two adults and two children. When you get your ticket, you’ll insert it into the entry gate and collect it at the other side of that entry gate. Keep it. You’ll insert it again when you get off, this time at an exit gate. If you purchased the right fare, it will keep your ticket rather than spitting it out as it did on entry.

Stations are not known for being easy for those with mobility issues. There is probably an elevator, but it may not be anywhere near the station entrance you might want to use. And with how much of a hurry most Japanese are in while using transit, especially in Tokyo, if you are moving slowly or standing in the middle of a crowded area, you might be bumped into. Seating is also limited in stations.

On board, trains of all sorts can be very crowded. Some riders might give their seats to elderly, but that’s not a cultural norm here, so don’t expect it. But the rest of the on board experience is an incredible one. Announcements are in both Japanese and English. Signage is also. Screens on most newer trains not only tell you which station is coming, but also which direction you’ll want to go from the car you are on in order to reach your exit or transfer point. The trains are clean, fast, smooth, safe, on time, and frequent. And one change can typically get you to most places in Tokyo you’ll want to go, or at least within a reasonable walking distance.

I’ve never found a reason to take a bus in Tokyo, so I can’t tell you about them, but I trust they are also a good experience.

Beyond transit, Tokyo has cabs, though they are notoriously expensive. Uber also exists, though it is only for luxury cars or calling taxis (but with an Uber surcharge).

What to Do

I’m going to divide the most major tourist activities into four categories: modern culture, traditional culture, green spaces, and food.

When it comes to modern culture, two neighborhoods sit at the center. On the west side of Tokyo is Shinjuku. This is where the shots of all the neon signs at night seem to be from, and it is the nightlife capital of the city. If you want to go to a club, it is more likely than not to be here. The second area is called Akihabara. This is the district known for anime and pop culture, plus video games, maid cafes, electronics, and also sex shops.

One other note on modern culture. On my most recent trip, I saw what is probably the best digital art museum I’ve ever seen, TeamLab Borderless. Click here to read about it.

While Kyoto is more associated with traditional Japanese culture, Tokyo isn’t exactly a slouch. In Ueno Park is the Tokyo National Museum, with an under $10 admission (and free for seniors over 70 with ID, even a foreign one) getting you more than a thousand years of Japanese art and artifacts. Or visit Asakusa, a neighborhood centered on the ancient Senso-Ji temple, that has some terrific traditional crafts. (Click here to read more about Asakusa.) Near Shinjuku is the Meiji Ginjo shrine, a stunning Shinto complex. Or have a samurai experience. (Click here to read about samurai in Tokyo, though the Samurai Museum mentioned is currently closed.)

If you want beautiful parks, Tokyo has some stunners. The top of the list is Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden (with a small admission fee), but there are other parks and gardens all over. Hamarikyu Garden sits near the Tsukiji Fish Market (more on that in a moment). The aforementioned Ueno Park is huge and has a lot of cultural sites within. Or try Yoyogi Park. But if you really like beautiful nature, try to come to Tokyo (and indeed all of Japan) for the cherry blossoms season, typically mid-March to early April. (Click here to read about cherry blossoms in Tokyo.)

Finally, food. Yes, there will be a “what to eat” category later, but food tourism is worthwhile here. Try the Tsukiji Fish Market for terrific sushi, street food, and even solid wagyu beef. If you can find it on the confusing basement level of Tokyo Station, Ramen Street has eight or so vendors selling all sorts, even vegan ramen. Or check out a Michelin star restaurant. (Click here to read a few tips for eating your way around Tokyo.)

Of course there are other things to do and see in Tokyo, from the world’s busiest crosswalk – the Shibuya Crossing – to Tokyo Disney, the Tokyo Sky Tree, or any number of other ideas. If you have time, do it all. Just beware of crowds, both of locals and tourists, and try to prioritize your time and movement.

If you want to get out of town for a day, I’ve done day trips to Kamakura and to Hakone, and back in the early days of The Royal Tour collaborated with some other writers on a list of day trips. Click here to read that.

Where to Stay

If you want a western-style hotel, there are two main clusters. One is near Shinjuku and one near Tokyo Station. If you want a more Japanese-style hotel, they are all over, but you might be sleeping on tatami mats instead of in a bed. Same goes with Airbnb; in fact I had a hard time finding one that worked for a family trip.

Hotel prices run the gamut, but trend expensive. A “fine” hotel (think a Holiday Inn equivalent but without the brand recognition) can go for $100-200 a night or more, with luxury hotels routinely exceeding $500 or more. Being transit accessible is the most important thing (beyond safety, but Tokyo is a very safe city by nearly every standard), but you don’t want to be too far out from the center (the area between Shinjuku and Tokyo Station).

What to Eat

Ok, let’s start with this basic objective truth. If Tokyo is not the world’s best food city, it is near the top. And that’s not just for Japanese food; everything I’ve ever eaten here has been good. And food is mainly reasonably priced. Yes, there are Michelin quality restaurants that are $200+ per person – and they are amazing – but you can get some incredible food for well under $10-15, too.

If you want sushi, find a local place that has sets, chef-chosen menus for a reasonable price. I found some great sushi in Ginza (an upscale neighborhood) for under $20 for 12 high-end pieces including sea urchin (uni) and fatty tuna (toro). If you want to go to one of the top places, know that few of them accept reservations from non-Japanese speakers, and even those can be a challenge to get into. You’ll typically have to request a reservation ahead of time; I was turned down by several before finding one in Osaka that would take us. On my first trip to Tokyo, I had my hotel concierge make the reservation for me since I couldn’t.

Let’s talk noodles. Ramen, udon, soba… you want to try them all. And all come in different varieties (hot or cold, with broth or without, with different bases and different toppings). Most noodle places I’ve been to have a machine you’ll order from. This can be a challenge for non-Japanese readers like me, since even Google translate just translates exactly, and I don’t know what “red fox” udon means. Ask for help. Sometimes you’ll get it, and other times you’ll have to find a different place. (Sometimes a restaurant will have an English menu online that you’ll order from on your phone. It might cost more. You can decide if you are willing to do that or want to go elsewhere.) Nearly all machines, and a decent percentage of all restaurants, are cash only.

Many restaurants in Japan, and in Tokyo especially, specialize in one thing (ramen, eel, etc…) and don’t have anything else on their menus. Full-menu restaurants are called izakayas, though even these will be more limited than the average American joint. So if you have dietary restrictions, do research ahead of time, but also be prepared to go elsewhere if needed.

But do yourself a favor and explore Japanese cuisine. It is much more varied and nuanced than its American version. Try street food. Sample a dessert with red bean paste. Have tea or sake. With prices being so reasonable (I had the best rice bowl with eel for around $4 in Asakusa, for instance) it is a great excuse to expand your comfort zone.

Other Useful Information

I mentioned cash only things a couple times. Transit ticket machines, lots of restaurants, entry tickets for some sights… this is still, even post-Covid, a cash-heavy society. Make sure you always have enough with you. Bills go down to 1000 yen, and coins up to 500.

English is not nearly as common in Tokyo as one would have thought from such a major international business city. Sometimes restaurants will not want non-Japanese speakers. Some of this is practical; while it can be fun to communicate via Google translate and hand gestures, it can also be frustrating. Part of it is a deep-seated racism that exists here. Regardless, a few words of Japanese will help you, as will plenty of patience.

Tokyo is clean, and it is orderly. Rules exist and few break them. People wait for the light to turn green to cross a street, and stand in neat queues. You are expected to stand on the left side of an escalator and leave room on your right for people to pass. Saying thank you (arigato) is a cultural requirement. (One quick note. For such a clean city, Tokyo has almost no public trash cans. If you have trash, carry it with you until you find a place to dispose of it.)

Conclusion

Tokyo is amazing. It really is. I get good vibes from the place. Yes, it is crowded, and yes, there are some things that are very difficult for me from a cultural standpoint, but the city itself is truly a wonderful place. I’d happily spend a month here, and might even be starting to make plans to do just that.

Like it? Pin it!