Sometimes in travel, plans don’t quite manifest the way we would like. An attraction is unexpectedly closed. Weather doesn’t hold. A place is much different – in a worse way – than its photo. For anyone who has spent any significant time traveling, these things will be part of their experiences; there’s no way to avoid it.

But sometimes the reverse holds true. An excursion is booked on spec, and turns out to be wonderful. Weather that forces changes in plans leads to some of the best new things to discover. Some small place off the beaten path ends up becoming a highlight. This is one of those times.

On my recent trip to Japan, my family booked a few nights in Odawara, a city of about 200,000 a half hour outside of Tokyo on the Shinkansen. Original plans called for some spectacular outdoor adventures: a drive around Mt. Fuji, the Hakone Gora Park, and the Hakone Ropeway. This was going to be our chance to relax and slow down some between the chaos of Tokyo and Kyoto.

After struggling to find a hotel in Odawara (even months ahead of time), we ended up right near the train station, rarely my favorite spot. And from the moment we arrived… rain. Not the most auspicious of beginnings. However, with the exception of the lack of a good independent coffee place that opened before ten, I ended up loving the area. Music played Moon River as I walked between the station and hotel, I found some lovely restaurants with local specialties like bait fish and horse mackerel, and realized that despite having to change some of my plans, Odawara was a solid base of operations to do some cool things.

After checking the most up to date forecasts, it seemed we might have a few hours sans rain on one day. Well, the Hakone Ropeway was out, since that really needs clear skies for its signature views of Mt. Fuji. (A small rant here that I’ve now had two trips to Japan and zero views of that most famous of mountains.) Same for Gora Park as the chance of rain increased at that elevation. So it was time to come up with a plan D or whatever it was by this point. And fortunately, Japan doesn’t lack for suitable backup ideas.

About an hour by train back toward Tokyo (which really gives you an idea of how fast the Shinkansen goes since my whole trip from Tokyo to Odawara was only a half hour on the bullet train) sits Kamakura. This small city along the coast of Kanagawa was once Japan’s imperial capital. From 1185 to 1333, Japan’s first shogunate was headquartered here, and the city has an impressive collection of sites to match such an illustrious history.

The Enoden Train Line runs to the city from two sides, connecting to the JapanRail lines. It is slow, but pretty, especially coming from the south, where it winds between buildings and then past surfers in the cold Pacific water. You’ll pass temples, some incredibly beautiful, before arriving at the Hase station, where my two favorite places here in Kamakura are.

Most tourists in Kamakura – and there are a lot of them, so be aware – make a beeline straight for the Great Buddha, part of the Shojosen-Ji temple. And I can’t say I blame them. It is, indeed, a great Buddha. In 1248, a huge wooden Buddha that stood here was destroyed in a storm, so a new giant Buddha was cast in bronze. Despite the building around it being destroyed, the base being damaged, and some extensive repairs in the 20th century, the Great Buddha of Kamakura has been here ever since.

At 44 feet high and 30 feet from knee to knee, it is enormous, so much so that a tiny fee can be paid to enter (which isn’t really worth it except for the novelty). The eyes are 3 feet across, the thumbs more than 2 feet around, and his ears are a whopping 6 feet in length. The scale is breathtaking, and photos almost have to include people at the base to get an idea of the true size.

However, after having seen it, one is sort of faced with what else to do in Kamakura. My favorite spot sits about halfway back toward the Hase station, the Hase-dera temple complex.

Hase-dera has everything the Great Buddha lacks. It has stunning landscaped grounds, a graceful main temple building, and breathtaking views all the way to the ocean. Built up a hillside, it is a vast collection of small shrines, larger buildings, and even a cave with a ton of both old carvings and new statues. Each path (most have stairs so be careful) takes you somewhere new and exciting.

Of course, the main temple is the highlight. Built in the Kamakura Period of the late twelfth century (exact dates are unknown though a legend has it being even older, dating to the early 700s), the temple houses a huge wooden statue of Kannon, also called Guanyin. The statue is about thirty feet tall, and I wish photos were allowed to be taken of it.

But pictures are allowed all over the remainder of the grounds. The flowering trees, water features (a mainstay of Japanese gardens), statues, and a view make for some solid shots. And with most people bypassing Hase-dera and heading straight for the Great Buddha, it doesn’t seem even remotely crowded.

Back in Odawara, the rain began in earnest. So the following day became a day for relaxation, and there is no better place for that than the small mountain resort town of Hakone, just outside Odawara itself. Hakone is known for its hot springs. Most are accessed through staying at traditional inns, but some, like Hakone Yuryo, are just for day spas. And a bit of rain doesn’t feel so bad when sitting in a hot tub.

Japanese onsen are a little different than American spas. Men and women are on separate sides, and clothing is not allowed. Neither is jewelry. And if you have tattoos that can’t be covered by a bandaid, you’ll be barred entry. (Tattoos in Japan have a traditional connection to criminal gangs, so the ban on tattoos has stuck.)

There are some spa services offered, like massage, but mostly those who visit an onsen will use it for the tubs. At Hakone Yuryo, you’ll put your things in a locker, shower (sitting down on a stool in a cubical), and then enjoy the tubs. There are several, of varying temperatures and sizes, both indoors and outside. Despite the rain, sitting outside looking at the mountains was perfect. I also took in some sauna time before having a lovely lunch at the cafe on site.

I could have easily spent a few days in Hakone, but the price for most lodging makes that a bit prohibitive. But the base in Odawara was perfect, requiring only a short train.

Tourists aren’t as common in Odawara, so neither is English. The rain let up in the evening, so I wandered a bit in search of dinner. The first place I visited was booked, but there was another traditional looking restaurant one floor up. I asked about a table; they basically said they don’t speak English. I smiled, agreed, and proceeded to – using my few Japanese words, their tiny bit of English, Google translate, and some pointing – have one of the best meals of my trip. Marinated tofu, Japanese fried chicken, Odawara fish cakes, pickles to die for… it was truly perfect, one of those travel experiences I’ll remember.

The next morning was free of rain. It was cold, but relatively clear, so I was finally able to make the quick walk to Odawara Castle. It is the closest castle to Tokyo, but not extremely popular. But on an early April day, the cherry blossoms here might be better than almost anywhere else. I didn’t even go inside the castle, just walked the grounds, admired the colors, and felt happy.

This was not the segment of the trip I had planned. Heck, it wasn’t even plan B. But man, my time in Odawara with trips to Kamakura and Hakone did not disappoint. If anything, they were among the absolute highlights of my time in Japan.

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