Several years ago, after my first trip to Japan, I wrote an article about how I thought Kyoto was overrated. (Click here to read it.) But fresh off my return trip to my previously least favorite city on the planet, Naples, which led to a redemption of sort, I was excited to go back to Kyoto. After all, I reasoned, much of my disappointment last time was probably related to my rather lofty expectations, and I wouldn’t have those this time. I’d know what to expect, and would therefore instead focus on seeing some objectively beautiful sights.

My logic was sound, but I have to say: I still don’t like Kyoto.

Kinkaku-Ji, also known as the Golden Pavilion, is arguably one of the most beautiful Buddhist temples in existence. Sitting on the northern side of Kyoto, nestled in the hills, it gleams. Dating all the way back to 1397 (although the present version is a 1955 replica after arson destroyed the first in 1950), the three-story central pagoda of the complex is covered in gold leaf, hence the name. Fronted by a small lake with carefully sculpted tiny islands and rock formations, it shines even on a cold and rainy day like I had. And despite the weather, it is reasonably crowded, although nothing like the mob I experienced on my first visit.

Even the remainder of the grounds is lovely, with sculpted gardens and other structures angling around the pavilion and up the hill. The admission fee is reasonable, there are restrooms; this is the sort of place I should love. And yet, the experience of visiting Kinkaku-Ji is one that exemplifies what I don’t like about Kyoto.

Kyoto is a city reasonably devoid of rail and subway lines, especially for tourists trying to access the major temples and shrines (for which Kyoto is known), which tend to be in the hills on the outskirts. Instead, one must take a bus (or hire a car, which is exorbitant). Now, I like buses, and take them all over the world. But Kyoto is so overrun by tourists that the buses leading to those major sights are so crowded that it makes it nearly impossible to even get on at times, let alone be comfortable. And given that passengers pay upon exit of the bus – via the front door – it can lead to a lot of pushing and shoving, especially for locals who take the bus to a stop other than a major tourist site where many will be getting off.

And once arrived at the temple, one is forced to contend with those same mobs of tourists, all fighting over the best views, there to camp out and take ungodly numbers of photos for long periods of time for their Instagram feeds. I’m not against taking pictures, or sharing pictures, or posing for pictures with one’s friends and family, but if you stand at the very front and block the view while undergoing wardrobe changes and different poses and then have the audacity to be upset when others pass between your photographer and you in order to get past, you ruin the experience for me. Kyoto, sadly, is full of those people, especially at the top sights.

(I realize that I sound like a bitter old man here. I recognize that about myself, that perhaps I am a bit more sensitive to these sorts of things, being someone who encounters it so often in my travel-filled life. But I do go out of my way to take my photo and move on, trying to allow others access as quickly as possible, only very rarely asking for a photo of myself to be taken, and then only one. I appreciate that for so many, this might be their only opportunity to be in a place like this, and I want them to have the best experience possible. Just not at the expense of the experience of others around them. I am fine waiting for others to finish, as long as they are reasonably considerate for that waiting time. I am fine with people wanting photos of themselves or their groups, but blocking an entire walkway for more than a few brief moments is not an ok way to do it. End of bitter rant.)

More than almost any other city I’ve visited, Kyoto seems like a collection of world-class sights (anyone who says the sights are not themselves objectively amazing is lying) with a rather bland and ugly city – a difficult to navigate one, no less – between them. A great example is Ginkaku-Ji.

Not to be confused with Kinkaku-Ji, Ginkaku-Ji is also known as the Silver Pavilion. It, too, sits on Kyoto’s northern side, but in the northeastern corner. The main pavilion was built in 1482, and was supposed to be covered in silver foil, hence the name. However, those plans never materialized, but the name stuck.

The grounds are the highlight here, with incredible sculpted sand, and a pathway that snakes up the hill behind the complex that provides breathtaking views over the city. Once again, it is a place I can’t help but love.

However, once outside the temple, one is faced with a dilemma. Like much of the city, the area around Ginkaku-Ji is overrun with tourists, extending down the street toward Kyoto’s famous Philosopher’s Walk with its beautiful cherry blossoms. There are shops and restaurants here, but a lack of anything resembling a neighborhood. And it is a long walk to reach anything else of interest, meaning another overcrowded bus.

This isn’t all Kyoto’s fault. Temples and shrines were constructed first, and the city filled in between them. Those sights we all come to Kyoto to visit were once well outside the city itself. But it means Kyoto doesn’t have the feel of a cohesive city, one with a central area to walk around and see things of interest. Nor does it have many neighborhoods that offer anything distinctive in atmosphere around most of these tourist destinations. (I can’t speak for all parts of the city as I, like most visitors, tried to see the major temples. It is possible that such neighborhoods exist, but without those top sights.)

An exception to the above is Gion.

Gion sits on the eastern side of Kyoto, near the renowned Kiyomizu-Dera temple. It is considered to be one of the most “traditional” areas of Kyoto, one filled with opportunities for tourists to experience those historic cultural aspects of Japan that so many want to see. Originally an entertainment district, it still functions as such, with tea ceremonies, geisha experiences, kimono rentals, shops, restaurants, and more. It is crowded, very crowded. But along the side streets off Hanamikoji-Dori, one of the best dining streets in Gion, people actually still reside. Signs tell tourists not to take photos down those streets, and as best as I can see, some actually listen. Best, the traditional facades of the old buildings along the street have been maintained, with restaurants and storefronts not having much street-facing signage so as not to destroy the character of the area.

Even just down the road toward Kiyomizu-Dera, where the throngs of tourists are heavier, this is an area in Kyoto with a cluster of sights. Kodai-Ji temple, the Hokan-Ji Pagoda, Yasaka shrine, and more… all of these are within a fairly easy walk. No, they aren’t the “top” sights, and yes they are crowded, but with a single stop on the bus, one can see a few things.

And yes, it is kitschy, but a tea ceremony is actually a good experience, not to mention a crowd-controlled way to have a bit of culture. (I went to Tea Ceremony Nagomi, but there are several around here.)

At the end of the day, if you’ll pardon the pun, Kyoto is just not my cup of tea. There are incredible things to see and experience here, but my overall feeling for the city has not been so positive. It is crowded, difficult to navigate, spread out, and outside of those amazing sights, not a pretty place. Is it worth a visit? That’s up to you. But if you want to, I’d advise basing yourself in Osaka and coming for a day, rather than the other way around.

I guess, I just still don’t like Kyoto.

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