Sometimes, I can be quite difficult. It is my first day in Edinburgh, a lovely sunny (though with brief drizzles as this is Scotland, after all) summer Sunday, and I find myself in the magnificent Balmoral, a stunning five star hotel on Princes Street just down from the central train station. The hotel’s lobby is home to the aptly, albeit not very originally, named SCOTCH Whisky Bar, a luxurious room of plush chairs and dark wood, and it is here I sit.

A kilted whisky expert – think the highest grade sommelier but for Scotch – makes his way over, and asks what I might like to try. And here, my being difficult emerges. “Well,” I say, “I don’t like Scotch. Do you have anything for someone like me?” Like I said, difficult.

A few probing questions later (“What don’t you like about Scotch?” I don’t like the smokiness and peatiness. “Do you prefer your drinks sweeter or stronger?” Definitely sweeter. “What is your budget?” I’d rather not spend more than £25.) and he returns, bearing a reasonably generous pour and the bottle it came from. He explains the history of this particular distillery – Daftmill – as well as the notes to try to appreciate in both the smell of the whisky and in the taste. He is so confident I’ll like it that he then walks away, rather than staying to judge my reaction.

Well, it is magnificent, the first Scotch I’ve ever done more than merely tolerate. I sit taking small sips, swirling the drink and smelling it, adding drops of water to experience the flavor change ever so slightly. It is the first, and best, experience I will have with Scotch during my month in Scotland. And while Scotch will never be my go-to drink of choice in my home life, I can say that exploring it while here is a beautiful thing.

Whisky (in Scotland it is spelled without the e) has been made here in Scotland since at least 1494, since that is the first written record of it. To be classified as Scotch whisky, it needs to be aged for a minimum of three years. Scotches tend to be made from malted barley, though in the nineteenth century wheat and rye were also begun to be used, with those whiskies classified as “grain” rather than “malt.”

Scotches are classified by region, with there being four main ones: lowland, highland, island, and speyside. There are different basic notes and identities for each region, but it might be helpful to consider that as you go further north, the smoky notes become more pronounced. So a lowland Scotch from the southern part of Scotland will tend – not always – to be a bit smoother, with more notes of flowers or grass than a highland or speyside (so named for the River Spey which runs through the region).

Scotch is at least 40% alcohol, with strengths up into the 60-65% range. So it is strong. But being served with water and an eye dropper helps, as you are able to add a few drops of water at a time. And trust me, it really changes the flavor, sometimes adding sharpness, other times smoothing it out. So try a sip at full strength, then adjust a drop or two at a time.

In all, I try Scotch on several different occasions, both as a single taste on its own as well as a couple tasting flights. And as a non-Scotch drinker, let alone an aficionado, here are my takeaways. First, and most important, having a Scotch whisky in Scotland is a true cultural experience that surpasses liking the particular drink or not. It is akin to having tacos in Mexico, part of the joy of traveling.

Second, Scotch comes in a much wider variety than I had previously thought. While most are on the smoky or peaty side, something I don’t particularly like, this is not a universal quality of Scotch whisky. With some extra experimentation, or the guidance of a knowledgeable professional, you might find one you love.

Third, find that professional. Much as my experience at the Balmoral set the tone for a much more willing exploration of Scotch than I had thought I’d have, your allowing a true expert to help you find the right Scotch for you can definitely make a difference. Note: while some bartenders are pretty good, there is a huge difference between someone at a typical pub, even one with an extensive whisky list, and a master. Find the latter.

Finally, make a Scotch experience more than just about the drinking. What do I mean? There is having a drink and then there is having an experience. Whether that means a cool location (the Port of Leith Distillery bar on the 8th floor overlooking the Royal Yacht Britannia, for instance) or pairing with something else (a random £5 dram of Tomatin in Inverness while listening to live music in a random park), if you aren’t initially a Scotch lover, accentuate the drink with the environment. That also makes a huge difference.

So no, Scotch will not be my go-to. But to have found some I thought were reasonably decent, and one I absolutely loved, is a huge win. Exploring Scotch while on a Scotland adventure is, to me, an indelible part of cultural immersion. So make sure to have one for yourself!

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