If you ever want to be truly despised in Scotland, call it England. You could be excused for saying the United Kingdom (though most Scots think of themselves as Scottish first and British second) and you’d be even forgiven – or laughed at – for calling it France by mistake. But England? Not a chance.

The reason is simple: for hundreds of years, England and Scotland were separate countries, and typically at war with each other. While they unified personally when Scotland’s James VI became James I of England as well in 1603, and unified politically in 1707 as Great Britain, sentiments have remained fairly distinct. The two have separate national teams in sports (outside of competing as Great Britain in the Olympics), separate political systems (although both vote for the “main” parliament in Westminster), and even different transportation lines. While technically they are in a single country together, there are trappings of independence all over.

So let’s take a moment today to talk about the Scottish independence movement, the history of Scotland as an independent country, where it might be going from here, and how to learn about this whole, for lack of a better term, messy situation when visiting Edinburgh, Scotland’s capital.

In the minds of many Americans, Scottish independence as a concept sort of began with the 2014 independence referendum, since this is the first time the issue made it to our news headlines in the U.S. But in reality, throughout the entirety of the history of England and Scotland as nations, they have been independent of each other longer than united as the UK. Even the Scottish Wars of Independence were more about maintaining independence as the status quo than gaining it.

Edinburgh Castle has a great exhibit on this period in Scottish history, seen as it relates to several times the castle itself changed hands between English and Scottish forces. (Click here to read more about Edinburgh Castle.) But the general gist is that in 1290, Scotland had a succession crisis after the death of King Alexander III. The Scottish nobility asked the English King Edward I to help mediate. Edward took the opportunity instead to invade, kicking off two wars that would last from 1296 to 1357.

(For Americans who want to relate to this period, the First War of Independence is the story in Braveheart, featuring William Wallace and Robert the Bruce. The Second War of Independence was not made into a Hollywood film, but features Scottish King David II, son of Robert the Bruce, and English King Edward III, ending with Scotland ransoming David’s release from English captivity, and some future treaties that would never really take effect.)

Future efforts to tie England and Scotland together were made between the Tudors of England and the Stewarts of Scotland. Ultimately, James VI of Scotland would be the unifying force. The great great grandchild of Tudor English King Henry VII, James inherited the English throne after the death of Elizabeth I, who had no heirs. He thus became James I of England in addition to his Scottish titles in 1603, thereby linking England and Scotland through his personal rule.

However, Scotland would retain many trappings of full independence for another century, specifically their own Parliament, and a distinct coronation. There was no United Kingdom yet, so when James’ son Charles was crowned, it was done both in England and in Scotland. Charles I would end up being executed by Parliamentary forces under Oliver Cromwell as part of the English Civil War (that’s a story for another day and location), then the monarchy would be restored under Charles II and then James VII/II (Scottish/English crowns were still separate, hence the different numbers), before he was deposed by his daughter Mary and her husband William of Orange, a story more famous in Ireland since it heralded much of what would come to be known as the Troubles. (Click here to read more about that.)

James maintained a court in exile, passing that along to his son, also James. That James (would have been VIII and III had he been successful, but wasn’t, so he is just James Francis Edward Stuart – the spelling was changed in time from the original Stewart) and his son, Charles Edward Stuart (also known as Bonnie Prince Charlie) fomented revolt in Scotland in the Jacobite rebellions, though they would ultimately lose to the Hanover dynasty, which still rules the United Kingdom to this day, though they changed their last name to Windsor. (Wow, that was a mouthful.) However, in the midst of the Jacobite drama, the United Kingdom was born, and with it the end of Scotland as a politically independent country. The Jacobite fallout also ended semi-autonomy by many of the Scottish clans in the highlands, as punishment for rebelling.

In 1707, the Acts of Union were passed by Parliament in London, officially combining Scotland and England (along with Ireland) into the United Kingdom of Great Britain. A new Parliament was proclaimed in Westminster, and the separate parliaments were disbanded. And so Scotland would lose its political independence, until the late twentieth century. (The last Stewart monarch, Anne, was adamant that the crown not pass to a Catholic like James, hence the Union and succession by the Hanovers.)

In 1979, a movement began toward devolution, or an element of Scottish Home Rule. This ultimately resulted in the 1999 re-establishment of the Scottish Parliament (although it would remain subject to overrule from Westminster on certain issues). A new building opened in 2004, at great expense and with plenty of controversy in its design, which can be visited in Edinburgh, and at least should be walked past if one visits the Royal Palace at Holyrood.

As for that 2014 referendum? As you’ll undoubtedly recall, it failed, garnering about 45% of the vote. And in the UK’s election of this past July, the pro-independence Scottish National Party was soundly defeated in national elections.

Now, does that mean Scottish independence is dead? Not at all. Especially with the UK’s withdrawal from the European Union, the much more pro-Europe Scotland has talked about a second referendum, although there are no plans for that currently, and I’d guess the issue of Northern Ireland will be the first to reach some sort of resolution in this post-Brexit world.

But Scottish nationalism is alive and well, seen in the Scottish flag flying much more than the Union Jack, in having a separate National Museum, National Library, and National Gallery here in Edinburgh, and simply in the way people discuss their own identities.

Scottish history at the National Museum is presented independent of England, although as part of the UK. It is complicated, and yet not. It would be akin to Hawaii in the U.S., with those native to Hawaii considering themselves separate and different from the rest of Americans, although recognizing that – at least for now – Hawaii is a fully integrated part of the States. It is pride in a unique and differentiated history and identity, but as part of an overall national narrative.

Perhaps that is the direction Scottish independence will continue to take: a semi-autonomous political entity with separate national pride, but without actually being an independent nation. As of this moment, it does seem to be working. Just don’t call this England.

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