A day spent at a castle is almost by definition a good day. There is just something magical, something mystical, about a castle. Fortress, manor home, commercial center, power projector… castles were the ultimate symbol of medieval might, and remain a source of intrigue today. This one is no exception.

Most visitors to Edinburgh make the journey up the Royal Mile to Edinburgh Castle, and rightly so. (Click here to read more about Edinburgh Castle.) But just a few miles to the southwest sits another symbol of Scottish might, and this one, Craigmillar Castle, provides a significantly better visitor experience, and a more authentic “castle-ish” visit.

As far as medieval castles go, Craigmillar is modern, only being constructed in the late 14th century. Scottish King David II gave the lands to the Preston family in 1342, and work on a tower keep began a little while later. The Prestons would hold the castle until 1639, when it would pass to the wealthy Gilmour family, but more on that period in a bit.

Under Preston control, Craigmillar Castle consisted of a central tower, which also contained the family home and great hall, and a fortified wall with four towers around. Much of that can still be visited today, although unlike some castles, Craigmillar is partially in ruin, with no furnishings or refurbishment other than to make sure that entrance is safe for visitors. Thus, it gives a really great “castle” experience that is authentic to what the building really feels like.

Craigmillar Castle was burned by English forces under Henry VIII, in what is called the Rough Wooing, during which he invaded Scotland after his offers of marriage of his son Edward to the newborn Scottish princess Mary (who would become Mary, Queen of Scots) was rejected by the nobles ruling in Mary’s name. (Her father, James V, died just days after her birth.) In 1544, English troops sacked Edinburgh, and destroyed Craigmillar (which defended the city from this side). Later, it was recovered and rebuilt by the Prestons, but the connections to Mary, Queen of Scots, would continue.

For her protection, Mary was relocated to France, where she would marry the heir to the French throne, Francis, in 1548. In 1559, Francis would ascend to the throne, and Mary would be Queen of France, though it wouldn’t last long. Francis II died the following year, and the childless Mary was basically pushed out by her mother in law, Catherine de Medici (yes, those Medici from Florence). So in 1561, the young Mary returned to Scotland to claim her throne there from the nobles who were ruling in her name. She was only eighteen.

In 1565, to solidify power with someone else who may have had a claim to the throne, Mary married her cousin, Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley. He proved to be a terrible match, to say the least. Jealous of Mary’s power – she refused to crown him as co-ruler – and envious of her privy council, he also accused her of having an affair with her private secretary, David Rizzio, and had him killed in 1566. Mary fled, ending up here at Craigmillar Castle, where she would stay for a few weeks while recovering.

While at Craigmillar, some of her nobles decided that Darnley had to go, and created what came to be known as the Craigmillar Bond. Darnley was found dead in February of 1567, and while Mary was never directly found to be part of his murder, she was suspected by the country. Between that and her Catholicism, she was forced to abdicate in favor of her infant son, James VI (read more about him from Stirling Castle here), after which she would flee to England, be arrested by her cousin Elizabeth I, held in the Tower of London, and ultimately executed. To say she had a rough life is an understatement.

One room at the castle is thought to have been the one Mary stayed in. Visiting it, one sees a large fireplace for heat, a private en suite privy, and multiple windows for plenty of light and fresh air, just what the ailing queen would have needed. While this being her actual room is open for debate, her being here, and Craigmillar being an indispensable part of her story, is pure fact.

In 1660, Craigmillar Castle was purchased by the Gilmour family, and several upgrades were made. A smaller curtain wall was added to strengthen the castles defenses and enclose two Renaissance-style gardens (which are still mowed to have what is thought to be their original pattern, though only in grass). The central tower was modernized and turned into more of a palace with the addition of a second wing.

But their reign here would be relatively short. By the early 18th century, the family had moved to another estate, and by 1775, Craigmillar Castle was in ruins. Since 1946, it has been under state control, and opened as a tourist attraction overseen by Historic Environment Scotland.

Entry is reasonable, at £7.50, and allows for exploration with no set route. Part of the Preston-era wall can be walked, providing some terrific views over the Firth of Forth and Arthur’s Seat. Some of the guest rooms (both from the castle’s earlier days and Gilmour times) can be seen, as well as the great hall, cellars, a below-ground prison, and kitchens. A maze of staircases is necessary to conquer to fully see the place, so if accessibility is an issue, you can stick to the paved paths around the castle park for some great views without going inside.

Castles inspire emotion. While that was originally meant to be fear, I find awe and wonder more commonly associated with my visits, and Craigmillar Castle, Edinburgh’s “other” castle, has those in spades. It makes for a truly authentic castle experience, and a great chance to learn about one of the most famous Scottish monarchs. That’s a good day in my book.

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