Old Nice: Nice Under Italian Rule

Today, Nice is essential France. There is a bakery on every block, a wine bar next door, and crepe stands abound. There is art, there is culture. There is no doubt that this is truly France. But in fact, Nice is a relative newcomer to France, its inclusion in the country only permanently coming in…

Camogli and Italy’s Golfo Paradiso

This was a day that wasn’t supposed to happen. Today, I was meant to take the train from my base in Genoa to the town of Santa Margharita Ligure, a coastal city best known as the place one catches the bus to the luxury mecca of Portofino. I was going to remain in Santa Margharita…

Craigmillar: Edinburgh’s Other Castle

A day spent at a castle is almost by definition a good day. There is just something magical, something mystical, about a castle. Fortress, manor home, commercial center, power projector… castles were the ultimate symbol of medieval might, and remain a source of intrigue today. This one is no exception. Most visitors to Edinburgh make…

Inverness and Loch Ness

An early morning on the shore of Loch Ness feels magical. I am standing near the ruins of Urquhart Castle, overlooking a shallow bay in the lake that gives way to a deep trench. It is misty, the perfect weather for the most famous denizen of the deep to feel safe coming to the surface.…

Edinburgh Castle and the Royal Mile

It stands as the most visible and dominant portion of the city’s skyline, and has for roughly 1,000 years. Top tourist attraction, most recognizable landmark, and the first thing visitors notice when arriving, Edinburgh Castle looks magical. It sits at the top of the Royal Mile, a mix of pedestrian zone and not that contains…

Stirling: Seat of Scottish Royalty

“He who holds Stirling holds Scotland.” Attributed to Robert the Bruce, although without any direct evidence he actually said it, this quotation fairly accurately sums up the importance of this place. Repeatedly fought over and conquered, Stirling has been at the center of Scottish intrigue and independence for centuries. And as it sits less than…

Osaka Castle (and the History of a Cool City)

In a country full of beautiful places, this might be at the top of the list. It is early afternoon at Osaka Castle Park, one alternating between somewhat sunny and totally overcast, humid with rain expected in the evening. The park is green, the cherry blossoms are out in full force, and the castle dominates…