I knew I’d like Edinburgh. But I didn’t realize just how much I’d love the city. It is historic, beautiful, full of exciting things to see and wonderful people to meet. Scotland’s capital really has a ton going for it, for a short trip or a long stay.

I spent a month solid in Edinburgh, and this guide will share all I learned and experienced from my time. I hope it helps you. Just note that I can only speak to things I actually did, food I actually ate, and places I actually visited. And even in a month, I didn’t come close to doing, seeing, and eating it all.

Make sure to click the links throughout this guide to read more in-depth articles about various aspects of Edinburgh. And if you enjoy it, click here to read our ultimate guides from all over the world!

Getting There

There are direct flights to Edinburgh from as far as Chicago, at least seasonally. But there aren’t a ton of options, they can be very expensive, and the airport is small. The odds might be that you’ll connect via somewhere else, or reach the city by rail (more in a moment).

If you do fly in, the airport is about 20-30 minutes outside the city center by car (could be a bit more in traffic). It is also connected via multiple express buses and a tram line. The buses run about £5.50 and make a few stops on their way in.

In the alternative, you can take a train from, say, London. While the train can be pricy, the amount you’ll save flying into Heathrow might make it cost effective, although it will be a long train. The positive is that the central rail station, Waverley, is right in the center, although it sits in a bit of a ravine and will be uphill to walk to the Royal Mile. (Consider a cheap cab or Uber if you have your bags.)

Getting Around

If Edinburgh has a systemic weakness, it’s public transit. There are buses – a lot of buses – and there is a tram line, but rapid movement around the city is a bit challenging at times.

Let’s talk about the buses. Most run every 20-30 minutes during the day, during the week. Nights and weekends are more spaced out, with weekend mornings having significantly fewer options, especially outside the city center. Just be aware and plan accordingly. The bus is £2, payable with a contactless credit card, or by getting a Lothian Pass, which is £60 or so for a month, and includes airport transit. (The card also works on the tram.)

If you are standing at a bus stop, just hold out your hand when you see your bus coming so it knows to stop. And to request your stop when onboard, press the button. Note: during my time in Edinburgh, it was about 50/50 for buses to announce the upcoming stops, so before I got comfortable with my regular routes, it was necessary to follow along on Google maps.

Uber works in Edinburgh, bringing fully licensed drivers. It is roughly £10-12 for most trips within the city.

If you decide to walk, it is important to note that Edinburgh is a very hilly city, and that any direction you go probably has at least a portion of uphill to it. Some can be quite steep.

What to Do

Edinburgh has a lot going on. But let’s start with the biggie: Edinburgh Castle. It is almost more impressive from outside, but it’s absolutely worth a visit. You’ll need to pre-book a timed entry. (Click here to read more about Edinburgh Castle.)

The next two most popular sights are things I personally skipped: Hollyroodhouse Palace and the Royal Yacht Britannia. I don’t need to pay money to know that the British royal family lives better than I do, but both sites are well regarded and rated highly.

There is a wealth of free museums in Edinburgh. There’s the National Gallery (art), the National Portrait Gallery, the National Museum (history/science), the Writers Museum (click here to read more about that), the Museum of Edinburgh, and more. The National Museum is probably the most impressive if you only have time for one.

If you have a bit more time to go further afield, check out Leith (click here to read more) beyond just the royal yacht, or visit Edinburgh’s other castle, Craigmillar. (Click here to read about Craigmillar Castle.)

Fancy a day trip? I took two while here, one to Stirling (click here to read more) and one to Dundee (click here to read about that one), but there are a ton of options by easy train or bus. Or you can hop an organized tour to Hadrian’s Wall (click here to read more about Hadrian’s Wall).

Otherwise, just enjoy strolling. Check out the Victorian and Georgian architecture, the gardens and parks, the churches and monuments. Try some good food (more on that in a couple sections) or drinks. Have an afternoon tea. Climb a hill. (My favorite view was from the Royal Observatory, but Arthur’s Seat is the hike of choice for most.)

A note here on Edinburgh in August, featuring the Military Tattoo and Fringe festival. The city will get even more crowded. Unless you specifically want to do those things, come before or after.

Where to Stay

If you only have a few days in Edinburgh and need to maximize your time and movement, you’ll probably want to stay either along the Royal Mile or Princes Street. Options range from expensive to otherworldly expensive, at least in summer.

If, however, you have more time, consider staying a bit further afield, either in a hotel or an Airbnb. Why? The center of Edinburgh is incredibly crowded with tourists, and while that’s ok for a bit, it can be a truly terrible experience for a long stretch. Just make sure you are close to multiple bus lines to have more options to get around.

If you want specific hotel recommendations, I don’t have any since I chose an Airbnb. But if budget is no object, the Balmoral was so incredibly gorgeous. As was Prestonfield House.

What to Eat

I’m going to plug some of my other articles here, and save some words and space. I wrote all about Scottish cuisine, which you can read here. Suffice to say, it is better than it gets credit for. Or you can just gorge on traditional British pub food.

You can and should also have some sort of experience with Scotch while here. And you can click here to read about that.

What else? Shockingly, Edinburgh has a relatively diverse food scene. I had good Indian, ramen, even deli while here. But it was best when I stuck to tradition. Pub food. Tea and scones. Scottish fare. Remember, eat what a place is known for and you’ll eat well. Drinks, too.

Other Useful Information

I spoke about this before, but it’s worth mentioning again. Edinburgh is a city built on many levels, so it wouldn’t be a surprise if you had to walk – at least in part – uphill both ways to/from a site. Be prepared or make other arrangements. And do look both ways, as traffic comes from the other side.

They say if you don’t like the weather in Edinburgh, wait an hour and it will change. I spent a full month (July) in the city. It rarely broke 70 Fahrenheit. Most days were gray. Most days had some drizzle at some point. And most days had some blue skies. Wear layers and bring an umbrella regardless of forecast or what it looks like outside. And note that the wind can be very strong here, which on a chilly day can make it feel very cold indeed. (And this was summer. Winter will be frozen.)

With how far north Edinburgh is, summer days are very long, with more than 18 hours of sun, and winter days have only a few. It takes some getting used to.

People in Edinburgh are largely wonderful. Don’t be afraid to talk to the next table, or to ask for directions. Crime is minimal, but still be wary of pickpocketers in busy areas.

Finally, do not equate Scotland and England. That won’t go over well here. (Click here to read more about Scottish independence and identity.)

Conclusion

Edinburgh is awesome, and it is a place that you are sure to love. But while it is incredible, it does come with some challenges, especially as relating to transit and cost. And weather. But it’s worth it.

I hope this guide inspired you to visit Edinburgh for yourself, and helped you make the most of your trip!

Like it? Pin it!