When I told family and friends – and random blog followers – that I’d be spending a month in Athens, I was met with disbelief. Apparently, Athens is a place people go for a day or two on the way to/from somewhere they perceive as being better, probably one of the Greek islands. Or it’s a place they stop over for a day on a cruise, as I did back in 2009. (Full disclosure: I didn’t love Athens during my several hours here on a single day back then.)

Well, after my month in the Greek capital, I can safely say: it is awesome! There are plenty of great things to do, there is a ton of good food, and there is an excitement here that is palpable. Add to it that Athens has some of the coolest historical sites on the planet, a terrific cafe vibe, and a reasonable transit system, and it reminds me a lot of Rome. (Also, like Rome, it is a bit chaotic and overwhelming here at times.)

The moral? The Greek islands might be amazing, and might be your destination of choice, but you won’t regret a couple extra days connecting via Athens. This guide will attempt to distill my own personal experiences into various categories, helping to hopefully inspire your Athens visit, or at least to maximize your time here. Please remember to click on the links throughout the guide to read more in-depth pieces I’ve written on specific aspects of the city.

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Getting There

While I don’t believe Aegean (Greece’s national carrier) offers any long haul flights, US-based carriers do fly here from east coast gateways. And, of course, with a single stop elsewhere in Europe, Athens is a piece of cake to fly into. The airport itself is a ways out of the city center. A taxi or Uber will run about €60 and take 30-60 minutes depending on traffic, or for €9 per person you can take the Metro, which will take just under an hour.

There is a downside to Metro from the airport, as trains only run about every half hour or so. (This is especially important to note when returning to the airport, as line 3, which runs to the airport, runs every 8-12 minutes, but only one in three trains goes all the way to the airport. Just note that when boarding.) Trains don’t run late at night through early morning, so also be aware of this. My flight from Athens to Malta required me to be at the airport by 5am, thus necessitating an expensive Uber.

There is also an airport bus to/from Syntagma Square, but unless your hotel is right there and you are traveling during Metro’s off hours (the bus runs 24 hours a day) you’ll likely find it less convenient.

You might also arrive in Athens via cruise ship. The cruise terminal is in Piraeus, which is the other end of the Metro that hits the airport. You can take it into Athens for a simple €1.20 per person one way, which will take about a half hour.

Getting Around

If you are staying in the center of Athens, basically the area that is a triangle between Monastiraki Square, Syntagma Square, and the Acropolis Metro stop, you probably will only walk. Walking is easy (reasonably wide sidewalks in enough places, although that isn’t universal) and mainly flat within that triangle, although there are some small hills (and larger hills elsewhere in Athens). But drivers here are notoriously bad, so be careful of those. And also be careful in the summer months of heat and dehydration.

If you’re going a bit further afield, the Metro is your best option. It is €1.20 for a 90 minute ticket anywhere in the system other than the airport, and tickets can be purchased at machines in the stations. You will need to use your ticket both to get in and out, so make sure you hold on to it. (Note: it is possible that someone will try to follow you through the turnstiles when you scan your ticket in order to avoid paying for one for themselves. Just don’t say anything. It isn’t worth the risk of confrontation.) The trains are relatively comfortable, and announcements are made in both Greek and English, although signage can be hard to see depending on your spot and how new the train is.

There are also buses in Athens, but I didn’t take one so I can’t comment on ease of use.

If you are traveling at off hours, or don’t feel comfortable with the Metro (or it doesn’t get you to where you need to be, as you need to move door-to-door), you can use either Uber or FreeNow. Both end up calling taxis, but the rate is pre-set. Drivers here will likely have the windows open in summer months to not have AC running.

What to Do

If you only have a single day, you’ll spend it at the Acropolis. (Click here to read more about the Acropolis.) It is important to note that tickets are for timed entry, and you’ll need to book them ahead of time if you want morning hours. Otherwise, if you just show up, your slot – if one is available at all – might be several hours later and in the heat of the afternoon. If you don’t have tickets ahead of time, you can get on a group tour that runs from the ticket line. It will cost more but allow you to enter with that guide at the moment.

(If you have that one full day, you can also pair the Acropolis with the nearby Acropolis Museum, which is stunning.)

If you have another day or two, Ancient Greece will probably be your focus. You can get a combination Acropolis ticket which, for €10 more as of this writing, includes many of these sites as well, and offers five days to see them beginning with your timed Acropolis entry. By order of prioritization (in my humble and honest opinion), you have the Ancient Agora (which needs 2ish hours at least) at the top of the list, then Kerameikos (about an hour) which is also from Classical Athens (click here to read more about Classical Athens). The Roman-built Temple of Olympian Zeus (15 minutes) would be third, then the Roman Forum (30-45 minutes) and next-door Hadrian’s Library (15-30 minutes) if you like Roman stuff. (Click here to read more about Roman Athens.) And then if you have more time and a specific interest, you can see Aristotle’s Lyceum, which will take another 15-30 minutes.

If antiquity is your thing, in addition to the sights above (mentioned as a group simply because of the combined ticket), you’ll definitely want to spend a few hours (probably 3-5 of them) at the National Archaeology Museum. It is a bit outside the immediate center, reachable via Metro and a ten minute walk, but the collection is amazing.

Ok, so what else does Athens have to offer now that you’ve done the truly historical part? Well, it is the capital of a modern European country, and that’s worth experiencing. Sunday at 11am, in Syntagma Square on the side facing Parliament, you’ll be treated to one of the most theatrical changing of the guard ceremonies. Just arrive early to get a close-up spot. (At least 30-45 minutes before.) Or visit the National Historical Museum to learn more about Greek independence. (You can also click here to read my very basic summary.)

For the best shopping and dining, the Plaka neighborhood between the Acropolis and Syntagma is your best bet. Shops tend to be open until 10pm in the summer, so don’t feel you have to go during the heat of the day. Some of the streets are pedestrian only, but you’ll still want to watch for motorbikes. (The similarities between Athens and southern Italy are immense.)

There is a wealth of other museums and sights in a city of 3+ million, as you’d expect, so many that I feel I didn’t even scratch the surface of the list. I loved the 1896 Olympic Stadium, totally done in marble, and its small museum with so many past torches. And I heard great things about both the Museum of Cycladic Art and the Benaki, but didn’t make it to either one, since I chose to get out of town a few times.

Which reminds me, you can also use Athens as a base for both some cool day trips and overnight ones. I took an overnight tour that went to both Delphi (click here to read about Delphi) and the monasteries of Meteora (click here to read about those). Delphi is doable as a day trip; Meteora would be rough as it is about five hours each way. If you have an evening free, you might want to consider a sunset tour to Cape Sounion and the Temple of Poseidon (click here to read about that). Or take a day and visit on of Athens’ local islands. I visited Aegina and loved it, and you can read about that here.

Beyond that, just enjoy Athenian life. It is largely spent outdoors, with good food and drinks. Join in!

What to Eat

I will be publishing a separate article on Greek cuisine, but since that one will wait until I’m done exploring Crete, it won’t be ready for the publishing of this guide, so let’s do a primer here and you’ll have to check the website for the food article to come out.

First off are the basics you’ve probably tried, or at least heard of. You have your gyros, either as a wrap/sandwich or a plate. It will most likely be chicken or beef (occasionally lamb is an option), served with fries next to (or inside of) it, as well as tzatziki (Greek yogurt sauce), tomatoes, cucumber, and pita. You also have moussaka, which is ground beef layered with eggplant and potato, with a bechamel and cheese. And you have souvlaki, skewers of meat or veggies done as either a plate or a wrap. Desserts tend to be pastries in phyllo, with baklava being at the top.

But Greek cuisine is more than these. It includes stews of meat and potatoes, though typically still served with fries (occasionally rice). Fish isn’t as common as I’d have thought, especially in Athens, but you’ll certainly see it around. Salads are common, and are more than just your standard Greek salad of tomato, cucumber, and feta. You can try Greek spaghetti (it’s a thing), or grilled halloumi cheese (amazing). Have a cocktail with ouzo (anise liqueur) or Metaxa. Enjoy the best olives in the world. Have a spinach and cheese (or just cheese) hand-held pie. Or a freddo cappuccino, and iced coffee with foam almost like meringue.

If you want some specific restaurant recommendations in a reasonable price range, here are a few. My favorite gyro wrap (for around €4) was at O Gyros Pou Gyrevis just outside the Acropolis Metro stop. My favorite casual sit down place was The Greco’s Project at Monastiraki Square. My favorite Acropolis view casual eatery was Kipkh, which Google maps finds but doesn’t have any reviews for. It’s just an outdoor eatery with amazing Acropolis views in the changing light of evening.

Where to Stay

Athens is reasonably affordable as far as lodging goes. But of course that still means there’s a range. Hotels can be hundreds of Euros for luxury brands, or under €100 for more bargain properties. Regardless, you’ll want to try to stay close to the aforementioned central triangle of Monastiraki, Syntagma, and the Acropolis.

American brands are mostly accounted for if you feel better with those. And yes, there are airport hotels, but unless you have but a single night and an early flight, it isn’t close enough for you to get much of a feel for the city.

I stayed at an Airbnb just south of the Acropolis, in a more local neighborhood with fewer hotels.

Other Useful Information

It is important here to mention the summer weather. Athens in summer will routinely be over 90 Fahrenheit, and will only cool to the high 70s at night. Be careful. Drink plenty of water. Wear sunscreen. Understand that places like the Acropolis will close during the middle of the day when it gets over 100, and be patient with the authorities. (Water can be brought with you almost everywhere. Sodas and sports drinks, not into the museums.)

Tap water in Athens is totally drinkable. It is also able to be ordered in most restaurants. Ask for nero vrisis.

Drivers in all of Greece, and Athens especially, are known for being terrible. Be careful crossing streets, even with the green, as cars and motorbikes will zip around corners without stopping.

English is spoken in most places you’ll be: restaurants, tourist sites, shops. So even if you don’t learn a few useful phrases in Greek, you’ll be ok. (But as with anywhere, a few basic phrases in the local language take you a long way.)

A note on tipping. It is not mandatory or expected, but is greatly appreciated, especially as the economy here in Greece is still really rough for those working in restaurants and bars. You’ll either need to specifically ask to add service to the bill before you pay it, or tip in cash. I tend to go with 10-20% depending, with speed of service not being part of it, as that will be slow regardless, similar to Italy or Spain. (You’ll likely get your order taken and your food brought fairly quickly. But getting the bill can take quite a while.)

Conclusion

I liked Athens far more than I expected to. Sure, the city can be gritty in parts. It is loud and it is chaotic. But it is beautiful, it is exciting, and there is no denying its historical significance. So if you find yourself coming through Athens, do yourself a big favor and allot an extra couple days more than the 1-2 that most suggest. You won’t regret it in the least!

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