Heraklion is the capital and largest city of the Greek island of Crete, and Greece’s fifth or so (depending on metric) most populous city at around 150,000. For tourists, however, the city is pretty much a blank spot. Yes, some will fly in and spend a day (or cruise in) and then head to Chania on the western side of the island.
Well, for my time in Crete, I wanted to see how people here actually live, which means staying here in Heraklion. I spent about ten days here, and to be totally honest, I really enjoyed it. It’s a cool city, and even though I rarely left the center, I feel like I got a pretty good idea of what life here is like. And trust me, it is worth an extra day or three if you can. (Obviously on a cruise, unless this is your port of embarkation or disembarkation, you don’t have that flexibility.)
This guide will discuss Heraklion, what there is to see, do, eat, and drink here, and why it’s a worthwhile place to spend some time. Please make sure to click the links throughout the article to read some more detailed articles about specific aspects of the area. And if you enjoy this guide, click here to read our Ultimate Guides from all over the world!
Getting Here
Heraklion’s airport is actually reasonably sized, featuring just under twenty gates divided into two terminals, one for Schengen area flights and one for non, although the overwhelming majority of flights in are from within Europe. I saw flights from as far as the UK, but there is nothing from the U.S. directly, so you’ll have to connect somewhere.
The airport is just east of the city center, and one can either take a bus or a taxi to reach the main tourist areas of Heraklion. The bus runs every twenty or so minutes, but honestly, if you are just arriving, I’d recommend a taxi. They pick up just outside the terminal, as opposed to a ten minute walk for the bus, and less than €20 for a fifteen minute or so drive in.
Alternatively you’ll arrive via cruise ship. The port is basically in the center so I believe (can’t say for sure since I haven’t done it) that you can walk or take a super quick and easy cab in from there.
Getting Around
If you are staying within the center, you’ll basically walk. Part of that is because everything is close by; the Venetian port to Lion Square is roughly 5-10 minutes by foot and that’s mostly as far as you’ll go. And part of it is because Heraklion’s center is largely car (and bus) free.
If you want to leave the center, however, to reach either a beach (there are some good ones just west of the city that we will talk about in the next section) or the Minoan ruins of Knossos, the area’s top sight, you will probably wind up taking the bus. Both of these are a single bus ride away from the center, and the bus is very easy to use.
Tickets for Heraklion’s buses can be purchased onboard or before you get on. They are more expensive onboard from the driver. Before you board, look for the nearest mini-mart (they are all over). They will sell tickets for you in cash. Within the city, pre-purchased tickets are €1.20, while those to the airport or Knossos are a bit more (€1.60). Just tell the cashier where you’re going and you’ll end up with a paper ticket. You can buy your return ticket at the same time to not worry about it, and even pre purchase airport bus tickets days ahead.
What to Do
Let’s start with Knossos, since it is far and away not only the most visited site in Heraklion, but in all of Crete. Knossos is home to the ruins of a Minoan (Bronze Age Greek civilization) palace complex, and it is incredible, especially considering that it dates back to 1700 BCE. You’ll need a couple good hours at the site, and the bus is 30-40 minutes each way from right near the Heraklion Archaeology Museum, a necessary second stop to learn the story of the Minoans. (Click here to read all about them.)
Within the city itself, the highlights are the Venetian remnants. Most of these (Morosini Fountain, Loggia, port facilities) can just be walked past, but you’ll want a solid hour or more at the Rocca a Mare fortress. (Click here to learn more about Venetian Heraklion.)
I spent a lovely day at the beach just outside Heraklion. Specifically, I visited Ammoudara Beach, where two rented beach chairs with an umbrella went for €10. There was lovely sand and water, and plenty of local options for food and drinks.
While I didn’t have a chance to do it, Heraklion harbor has some fishing charters, as well as snorkeling day trips. Next time.
There are a few other museums in town. The Museum of Ancient Greek Technology was cute but nothing special, but the Historical Museum of Crete was pretty cool, especially for the Venetian aspect. It picks up where the archaeology museum leaves off in Crete‘s fascinating historical journey.
Beyond those, I really enjoyed just walking around Heraklion’s center. Pedestrian streets, a ton of cafes, a lovely waterfront, and random Venetian construction all make for a wonderful environment.
Where to Stay
If Heraklion is limited in any real way, it is in chain hotels. To be honest, I didn’t see a single one. And hotels in general are not plentiful in the city center. There are some, but keep that in mind.
I stayed at an Airbnb, which ran about $700 for 10 nights, and it was less than 10 minutes walking from all of what I wanted to see inside the city center. There are others, so that might be a better bet.
The important thing is to be within the center. It is pleasant, convenient, and the city lacks in things to specifically do outside of that area.
What to Eat
This is, in my opinion, where Heraklion truly shines. The food here, and probably on Crete overall, is awesome, reasonably affordable, diverse, unique, and comes with the best hospitality (including free dessert and booze basically everywhere, which I talk about here) you’ll find. But there are some basic things to look for.
Seafood. Crete is an island, and the seafood here is awesome. Especially look for the fried fish like squid and anchovies (and local red mullet, though I prefer the anchovies).
Cretan produce. While one focus will be on the wild greens the island is known for, tomatoes, mushrooms, and more are amazing here.
Snails. Yes, Crete is known for snails. If you aren’t weirded out, have a plate.
Corn. This is a weird one to me, but there is grilled corn all over Heraklion. And pita I had on a gyros plate was made from corn.
Semolina. Especially in pastries, semolina is prevalent here. Look for it.
My favorite meal was at Peskesi, which specializes in upscale Cretan cuisine. You’ll need a reservation, but it is amazing and worthwhile.
Other Useful Information
A couple notes that could also have gone in sections above. First, Uber doesn’t exist here. FreeNow does, in theory, but in practice I was unable to get a ride to commit from the airport, so just be aware it might mean cabs and buses.
I mentioned free booze. The drink here is called raki, and it is strong. You’ll likely get some at the end of your meals, brought to you on the house. Don’t feel obligated to finish it, as sometimes it can be a rather large amount. Same goes for the complimentary desserts.
It can be pretty windy in Heraklion. That can make cool evenings feel cooler, warm evenings a bit more pleasant, and beach outings feature whipping sand.
The best sunsets are from in front of the Venetian fortress. That’s just an important thing to know.
Conclusion
Few tourists spend much time in Heraklion. But I loved my week and a half here. It was slow paced, without the overwhelming number of sights one feels one has to see. And I liked that. This is a pleasant place, with great food, amazing people, natural beauty, and some awesome history. Give it more than just a cursory pass-through.
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