I really love this city. Istanbul, the bridge between Europe and Asia, and Turkey’s largest city, is a truly remarkable place. It is beautiful, vibrant, has some world-class sights, features great food, and is really unique. But there are also some challenges visitors find when exploring here.

I’ve now been to Istanbul three times, including two years in a row. In this guide, I will attempt to distill my own personal experiences into some basic information and recommendations. Please note that I can only talk about things I have personally done, so if it feels incomplete, well, it is. Even during the course of three visits I haven’t been able to do nearly anything outside the main tourist areas, and even then I’m sure I’m missing a lot that is worth experiencing.

If you want some more detailed features on specific aspects of Istanbul, make sure to click the links in the guide. And if you enjoy the guide as a whole, please click here to read our Ultimate Guides from all over the world!

Getting There

Istanbul has two airports, but unless you’re coming in from somewhere else in Europe, you’ll almost certainly be arriving at the main one, which is located about an hour (or more with traffic) northwest of the city. The airport is massive, but signage is good for navigation purposes, and it is actually very quiet, as I almost never notice announcements. Once through passport control, make your way outside and take a taxi to your hotel. It will run anywhere from $30-60 depending on travel time and whether the driver takes the toll highways. Just be patient as you make your way into the city.

The second airport is on the Asia side of Istanbul, and a similar distance outside the city. I haven’t used it, so I can’t give you much of a guide to it.

Getting Around

Istanbul is massive. Home to around 20 million people, it sprawls in all directions that aren’t water. Fortunately for us as tourists, the things we want to see and do are in a relatively compact area. The overwhelming majority are in the historic center, the part of Istanbul that used to be Constantinople and is now called Sultanahmet.

Within Sultanahmet, you will be best off if you’re able to walk around. It can be hilly (Istanbul is one of those cities where it seems everything is uphill) and sidewalks can be taken up by parked scooters, but there are some nice pedestrian pathways. More importantly, traffic is terrible and street access is limited to the sights, so walking is often more efficient.

If you are going outside that one neighborhood, you’ll probably be crossing some water. To get to the Galata Tower, you can either walk or take the tram across one of the bridges across the Golden Horn. To get to the Asia side, however, will mean a ferry, which can be taken basically from either side of that bridge.

I’ve never taken the tram, but ferry passage can be purchased with Apple Pay or a contactless card, so that’s nice and easy. And the ride is short and smooth. Just make sure to get on the right ferry, since there are a ton heading across the Bosphorus between the Asia and Europe sides at various points.

Under no circumstances would I ever recommend renting a car and driving.

What to Do

I think I’m sort of going to divide this by region, and by the amount of time you have in Istanbul. For instance, if you only have 2-3 days, you’ll probably want to spend the whole time in Sultanahmet, home to the pantheon of “best of” here in the city.

The Hagia Sofia is the top thing you’ll want to see in Istanbul, and the most impressive of the city’s Byzantine building projects remaining. (Click here to read more about Byzantine Istanbul.) However, I’ve been three times and had three very different experiences, so things seem to be changing. The monumental church turned mosque was a museum when I first visited in 2009. It is now back to a working mosque. It was free. In 2024, it is about $28 to visit. It was fully accessible. In 2023 only the bottom floor was, and in 2024 only the top. (It seems this is the way it is going to be, with visitors not being allowed onto the mosque floor.) All that said, it is 100% worth visiting if you haven’t. The immensity of the building, the mosaic, the stonework… these are all worth seeing despite the new cost and lessened visitor experience.

Just across a beautiful square from the Hagia Sofia sits the Blue Mosque which, as of this writing, is still free and accessible. It is crowded, though, with long lines forming although they will move quickly. It really only takes 10-15 minutes inside to experience what you can.

A note here on mosque visits, both of the above and others in the city. There is a pretty strict dress code. Men will need their knees and shoulders covered. Women will need knees, shoulders, and heads covered. And all will need to remove shoes (except on the second floor of the Hagia Sofia). There are scarves for wrapping heads available at many of the mosques, but just wear pants and sleeved shirts and bring one to make things easier.

While you’re in Sultanahmet Square seeing the Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque, it is worth visiting the tomb of Sultan Ahmet I (free but subject to the dress code above) and to see a set of towering things (Egyptian obelisk, Roman obelisk, Greek column, and an ornate water fountain) in what was once the Roman hippodrome along the side of the Blue Mosque.

If Byzantine remnants are your fascination, it is absolutely worth the entrance fee (a bit under $20) to see the stunning Basilica Cistern, which provided water to the city for well over a millennium. Just note that it can be a bit slippery and dark.

If you are more into Ottoman era history, you can visit Topkapi Palace. I will state here that, while it is objectively cool and beautiful, I do not like the visitor experience of the palace, especially at the roughly $50 price point. It is incredibly crowded. So if you do go, get there at opening and go immediately to the treasures rooms (there are a few different ones), as those lines get long. (Click here to read more about Ottoman Istanbul.)

Many visitors to Istanbul want to visit the Grand Bazaar. You can, and it is huge and dizzying. If you only have a chance to visit one bazaar for a part of a day, I’d suggest the Spice Bazaar (also called the Egyptian Bazaar), even if only for the free samples of all the yummy things.

Maybe you want to go to another mosque. I’ve visited a few, and my favorite is the Suleymaniye Mosque which is sort of between the two bazaars and up a hill. It is beautiful, not crowded, and affords some great views. Plus Suleiman the Magnificent has his tomb here, which you can visit.

With Topkapi Palace taking at least 3-4 hours, just the things above can easily last you 2-3 days. But what if you have more? Then you can expand beyond this one area, or see the plethora of museums Istanbul has.

For an amazing day trip, take the ferry across the Bosphorus to Kadikoy. First off, it’s pretty cool to say you went to Asia for the day. Second, the neighborhood has some of the best street food and young hipster vibes in the city. Plus the ferry offers views just as good as the Bosphorus cruises you can book and for a tiny fraction of the price.

Or head across the Golden Horn to see the Galata Tower, and Taksim Square beyond, which is basically Istanbul’s downtown.

As an American tourist, I’m honestly not sure I’d feel safe beyond these central areas. And especially not as a Jew in today’s political climate. So while I’m sure there is a ton more to see and experience, I am not sure I’ll be able to do so, meaning 4-5 days in Istanbul is enough to see most things on a reasonable list.

Where to Stay

This one is much easier than in most of my guides. Stay in Sultanahmet. Yes it is more touristy than other locations, and yes it is more expensive. But it makes getting to the sights significantly easier, especially when for crowd purposes you want to get to many around opening. And while it is indeed more expensive, that’s relative. Both lodging and food in Istanbul are quite affordable by American and European standards.

Within the area, you’ll have a ton of options. There are a few American chains, but more small boutique hotels. Find one that works for you and your budget – most include breakfast – and enjoy Turkish hospitality. My last trip, I stayed at the Edibe Sultan Hotel, and found it largely wonderful. Except the coffee, which was dreadful.

What to Eat

Food here is good. In terms of specifically what to eat, you might enjoy this guide to Turkish cuisine. But let’s get into a few basics right here.

Kebab. You will eat kebab. It is practically unavoidable. It comes in a ton of varieties, and while it is mainly meat, there are even vegetarian versions. Try different ones, with different meats and different flavors.

Turkish street food. Did you know there are two basic types of Turkish pizza, lahmacun and pide? Try them both! The former is more a flatbread with ground meat that you roll to eat after adding herbs and spice. The latter is kind of an open faced calzone in texture. Both are delicious. As are any number of other sandwich options, like the fish sandwiches by the Golden Horn Bridge (cash only). The best street food is across in Asia, in the Kadikoy neighborhood, and you can wander on your own or book a street food tour.

Sweets. If you have a sweet tooth, this is a city of pilgrimage. Specifically, you have two things you’ll want to try – and will keep eating. First is baklava. The baklava here is mainly pistachio based and it is heavenly. Second is Turkish delight. You may have had Turkish delight somewhere else and think it’s disgusting. It is different here. Have some. My favorite is the pomegranate and pistachio. Eat one for me!

Hot drinks. Istanbul is the best city in the world for herbal tea. While “Turkish tea” is caffeinated, try the pomegranate or apple tea. And at the bazaars, you may even want to buy some dry tea blends to take home. And then there is Turkish coffee. It is bitter, strong, and gritty, needing a few minutes to settle before drinking. If you don’t like it, try pistachio coffee, a decaf drink made the same way but from pistachio seeds. For either one, ask for it sweetened (lots, little, medium) before it is made.

Beyond that, don’t be afraid to try things. Grilled olives are amazing. Eggplant in every possible form. Mussels stuffed with herbed rice. The food here is good, and adventurous eaters will have a blast!

Other Useful Information

The tap water here is ok for brushing teeth, but it is not recommended to drink. Fortunately, bottled water is super cheap and can be purchased all over (cash only typically).

Within the main tourist neighborhoods, English is able to be used most places. And with everyone so friendly, it is nice to chat.

There is, however, a fine line between friendly and pushy. As you walk around, especially in Sultanahmet, people will try to get you into their shops and restaurants. Don’t engage. Many of them will argue with you if you just say no, even following you for a bit. It is overwhelming at times, and one of the biggest negatives to the city for me.

We do have to mention the politics of Turkey here. (I talk a bit more about that in this article here.) The people are amazing, and Istanbul is mainly liberal. But the government caters to their Islamist conservative base, which is pretty anti-American, anti-West, and very anti-Semitic. Just be careful, especially if you leave the central touristy areas. I do not advertise that I am American, and while I have a second citizenship (German) so I’m technically not lying, even without that I’d probably just say I was Canadian. Everyone loves Canadians.

Finally, a note on haggling. In the bazaars, and in some shops, prices are marked well higher than would be accepted if you decide to try to negotiate. My advice is this. Decide what you would want, and what you would be willing to pay for that, ahead of time. If you reach a price that you are happy with, amazing! Who cares if you could have maybe gotten it for less. (Haggling does not apply in restaurants.)

Conclusion

Istanbul is unique, and despite some challenges, especially related to the Turkish government, it is a city I love. It is a place that gives me good feelings, and a city I very much hope to experience more of in the future. And if luck brings you here, I’m sure you’ll come away feeling the same. I hope this guide helps!

Like it? Pin it!