It’s always nice when my first trip of the year is in early January. It’s even nicer when it is a return trip to one of my favorite destinations from the earlier days of The Royal Tour: Guatemala.
Back in 2019, I spent about a week and a half in Guatemala, splitting that time between Antigua Guatemala and Lake Atitlan. Back then, a week in a place like Antigua netted me just an article or two; I was a different writer and The Royal Tour was a different outlet, one less focused on these small slivers of destinations like we are now. The three days in Atitlan didn’t even make more than a mention in my overall guide to Guatemala. But despite the lack of writing, I loved my time there, in both destinations as well as on my day trip to Tikal, despite some issues with the tour company that took me on my little Mayan adventure.
This time, I’m heading back for longer. I’m armed with more pre-research, better Spanish, and some incredible memories to help guide me. At just over three weeks, it is a short trip by my recent normal standards, but absolutely enough to delve a bit deeper than I did last time. The overwhelming majority of the trip will be spent in Antigua, with a few other side trips of sorts sprinkled in. Some things will be new, some will be repeats, and some will be repeats that feel new since I’m a different Jonathan than I was in 2019. Plus A will be coming, and traveling with a partner is much different than the solo variety I was doing back then.
So with all that out of the way, let’s go through some specifics. As always, there are some caveats to the itinerary listed below. First, things change, based on things out of my control: weather, illness, closures, etc… Second, while I have some specific articles I intend to write, those things can also change. Sometimes I’m not inspired by something I expected to be turned into a story, and other times I run across something unexpected that changes my mindset completely. I want to be open to both of those things.
Ok, I think that’s it for an introduction and warnings, so here’s the basic itinerary.
Day One – Los Angeles to Antigua Guatemala
Off the bat, this is a bit of a mess. I found $180 round trip direct flights from LAX to Guatemala City (score!) but both flights have been changed to be pretty lousy times. For that price, I don’t really care much, but red-eye flights both ways is not my ideal itinerary. On the plus side, an early morning arrival likely means shorter lines for customs, a hopefully easy Uber for the 45 or so minute drive to Antigua, and after checking into my Airbnb, a great cup of Guatemalan coffee. Not a bad way to start. The remainder of the day will be spent setting up the flat, grocery shopping, and an orientation walk through the old colonial capital of Guatemala to get our bearings.
Days Two through Six – Antigua
Antigua Guatemala is a small city at this point in time, with a population of less than 50,000. But it has a lot of cool – albeit small – things to see. There are museums, colonial buildings, and a TON of really beautiful ruins from buildings destroyed over the centuries by earthquakes and volcanoes. (Those disasters necessitated the eventual moving of the capital to what is now Guatemala City, hence the name Antigua (Old) Guatemala here.) There is also an active nightlife here thanks to the flocks of young tourists who love this place, and a few coffee plantations. Add to that the natural beauty of being in a valley surrounded by volcanoes (I will likely not be climbing one, as those are very long and very steep trips that I’m not sure I’m up for), and my first week will only get to a small portion of what I want to accomplish.
Day Seven – Antigua to Flores
Even though I’ve been once before, Tikal is one of the most incredible places I’ve seen, and A hasn’t, so a return is in order. It’s an early morning to Guatemala City and a short flight to Flores, before a small group tour takes us through the amazing Mayan city. I’m interested to see what new perspectives – if any – I have on what will pretty much be an identical day to that one in 2019. This time, however, I’m spending the night in Flores, not immediately returning to Antigua. Will that town offer any cool surprises in the afternoon and evening?
Day Eight – Flores to Antigua
Today is another Mayan city, this time the ruins of Yaxha. After all, why see one Mayan city when I can see two? Yaxha is smaller than Tikal, and significantly less popular, so it might provide a better tourist experience. I’ll report back. Then it’s the return flight to Guatemala City and drive back to Antigua.
Days Nine through Twelve – Antigua
Week two in Antigua! I’m sure there will be more coffee, more ruins, and perhaps a deeper delve into Guatemalan cuisine. But will I be brave enough to ride a chicken bus? Probably not, but you never know.
Day Thirteen – Antigua to Panajachel
The shuttle to Panajachel, the largest town on Lake Atitlan, takes about two hours, and my afternoon will be spent wandering the town and the waterfront.
Day Fourteen – Panajachel
Today is all about Lake Atitlan, considered to be one of the most beautiful lakes in the world. Last time I was there was quite hazy, so here is hoping for a clearer day. The plan as of now is to split the day between two of the many lakeside towns, but which ones is an open questions as of this writing. Maybe San Pedro and San Juan? I’m honestly not sure, but I’d like two different perspectives on small lakeside villages. And then back to Panajachel for the night.
Day Fifteen – Panajachel to Antigua
One last morning by Lake Atitlan and then the return shuttle to my home base in Antigua.
Days Sixteen through Nineteen – Antigua
One last chance to do all the things in Antigua I haven’t yet. Or maybe there’s another cool day trip to try. It really all depends on how productive I was the last couple weeks, or how tired I am.
Day Twenty – Antigua to Guatemala City
Very few tourists spend time in Guatemala City. It seems that if Americans go at all, it’s either to see people or for business, or maybe to spend a single night before an early flight out. Guatemala City doesn’t have a great reputation for either safety or for tourist experiences, but I don’t intend to let those stop me from writing about the capital to some extent. (Yes, there are safe neighborhoods, like Zone 9, where most of the US brand hotels are.) I will be spending the afternoon at the National Museum of Mayan Art, and can’t wait to add that perspective to my earlier visits to Tikal and Yaxha.
Day Twenty-One – Guatemala City to Los Angeles
I have all day, since my aforementioned flight changes led to a very late departure tonight. So it’s a day at Plaza de la Constitucion, the national cathedral, and the Palacio Nacional, with lunch at the nearby central market. And with still more time to kill, dinner tonight is upscale Guatemalan at Flor de Lis, widely thought of as the country’s top dining experience. Then off to the airport and my return red-eye flight.
So that’s the trip. I am super excited! As always, content will be delayed, but you can follow along for photos pretty much every day on my Instagram account while you’re waiting.
Below is a map of most of the country for your reference. Flores is the flag in the north, while the cluster of three at the bottom contains, from left to right, Panajachel, Antigua, and Guatemala City.
