In 1867, the United Kingdom passed the British North America Act, whereby Canada became an independent country. Four years later, in 1871, the colony of British Columbia – itself an 1866 merger of two colonies, British Columbia on the mainland and Vancouver Island – was talked into joining the new nation, urged in part by the promise of a transcontinental railway within ten years. Victoria, first the capital of the Victoria Island colony and then the combined British Columbia, was suddenly a provincial capital of a rapidly westward-expanding country.

Money flowed in. Between an 1858 gold rush (and subsequent finds for the next couple decades), timber, coal (more on that in a moment), and trade with the rapidly growing western United States, British Columbia became the place to be, and Victoria was its hub, at least until Vancouver truly emerged with the completion of the railway terminus. (This early period also saw a huge wave of Chinese immigration, which you can read about here.)

These first few decades of Victoria’s history, from its 1858 emergence to the early twentieth century, shaped the entire vibe of the city, and so many of those features can be seen to this day, impacting the tourist experience both in visit-worthy sights and simple atmosphere. And together, they tell Victoria’s early story.

Victoria was, of course, named for Queen Victoria, whose reign from 1837 to 1901 marked the British Empire’s height. And representatives of the Queen ruled here, first as colonial governors and then as governors-general, a mostly ceremonial position that every member of the Commonwealth has. These are appointments by the British monarch that engage in ambassadorial sorts of roles, as well as some official functions representing the Crown.

Government House has been the home of the governors and governors-general since the get go. The mansion was built in 1857, although it has gone through multiple renovations, and sits on 36 acres of open-to-the-public gardens and lawns. And while the house itself is also able to be visited sometimes, the grounds are free and open 365 days a year, offering a taste of a British country major home. The rose garden is especially lovely, fenced off to keep the bushes safe from deer who roam the area.

One of the main functions of the governor-general is to open sessions of British Columbia’s parliament, called the legislative assembly, and that building is also able to be visited by the public. It opened in 1897, a truly stunning neoclassical (or perhaps Romanesque (thank you to our reader who pointed this out) masterpiece. One can peek into the legislative chamber, see the scepter that (I believe) represents the Crown’s power in official proceedings, and admire murals and stained glass. There are tours, also free, but those run at limited times, whereas entry is basically five days a week throughout the business day.

As a provincial capital, Victoria attracted wealth, and also allowed opportunities for creating it. Robert Dunsmuir came to Vancouver Island in the 1850s from Scotland when a coal seam was discovered near Nanaimo. While that venture did not make his fortune, a subsequent seam he exploited in the 1870s did, and Dunsmuir was soon the wealthiest person in western Canada. Such a person needed a home to match, and the Dunsmuir family began construction on Craigdarroch Castle in Victoria in 1890, though Robert would pass away before its completion.

The home is impressive, to say the least, with a number of rooms restored to their appearance while the family lived there from 1891 to 1919. (Between then and the opening of Craigdarroch Castle as a museum in 1979, it was a military hospital, school, offices, and more. Those histories are also included on displays in as of yet unrestored rooms.)

The interior of Craigdarroch Castle is ornate, though not as much as its stunning exterior. Highlights are some woodwork, stained glass, and the family’s furnishings, which were obtained over the decades. A self-guided tour takes visitors up one side and down the other, so ability to climb stairs is necessary.

Money and political power attract visitors, and of course, many of those wanted luxury, as well as a taste of the old country (Britain). 1908 saw the opening of the Empress Hotel, one of a chain of chateau-looking hotels built by the Trans-Canada Railway (and all of which are now Fairmonts, I believe). The hotel, sitting right on Victoria’s Inner Harbor (click here to read more about the Inner Harbor), is still one of the top in the city, with a price to match.

But for a more reasonable taste of the UK, you can visit the Pendray Inn for high tea. At about $65 Canadian, it is a luxurious treat that is cheaper than the one at the Empress, and rated better. It is said that Victoria is one of the last bastions of true Britishness in Canada, and this is an experience that makes it come to life.

My tea consisted of several savory sandwiches, two scones, and multiple sweets, along with a dizzying selection of teas. Two hours later I was stuffed, happy, and nearly speaking in my terrible English accent. That the Inn dates back to Victorian times is a huge plus as well!

Modern Victoria is cool, with plenty to do and see. But where this city really shines, in my opinion, is in its beautiful buildings and iconic experiences dating back to Victorian times and the beginning of Canada.

Thank you to Destination Victoria for providing me with a Victoria Attractions Pass that covered my admission to Craigdarroch Castle and my amazing tea at the Pendray Inn.

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