Lots of people have been to the Bahamas. I’m one of them, and like a large percentage of them, I was there as part of a cruise. It was lovely. Others go for the resorts, clean beaches, blue waters. Those are also lovely.
Well, I’m looking for a different Bahamian experience. I’ll be in the Bahamas for two weeks, and other than a possible day trip or two, I’ll be spending the entire time in Nassau. Why? Let me explain.
People actually live in the Bahamas, although there are probably times that tourists outnumber the 400,000 or so citizens. And a majority, roughly 250,000 of those citizens, live in Nassau, the only city in the country of any meaningful size. For those people, Nassau (and the Bahamas as a whole) is home. It has more than just beaches, resorts, and cruise passengers. That is the Bahamas I want to find.
Since I’ll be spending the entirety of the trip in a single place – a lovely looking rental flat just west of Nassau’s center – this introduction will not be a day to day itinerary. Rather, let’s talk through the aspects of the city and country I want to get into while I’m there.
Junkanoo
Think of Junkanoo as Carnival, but a Caribbean one created by West African slaves and their descendants. I’ll be missing the festival itself, but will be able to learn about it from a museum, and from smaller demonstrations for tourists that happen on Junkanoo Beach in Nassau.
Slavery
Yes, there was a significant enslaved population here during colonial times, and while Junkanoo is a more upbeat remnant, I also want to talk about the English slave trade, similarly as I discussed the Dutch slave trade from Curacao.
Piracy
Nassau is a city founded by pirates, and some of the most famous – or infamous – buccaneers called this city their home. There is a museum to piracy here in Nassau, and I hope that some other aspects of this history exist, even in the form of plaques and the like.
Colonial History
The British ultimately came to hold the city, fortifying it and building the start of what would become a more modern Nassau. We will definitely explore some of that, and talk about British-Bahamian relations as part of the Commonwealth.
Modern Bahamas
Yes, this is an actual country. As any country, it has politics and issues. Most tourists know nothing of those, or even of the political system here at all. So let’s discover it together!
Fish Fry
Bahamian fish fry is legendary. It features local seafood, and the national ingredient: conch. There are apparently two main places to get fish fry, one for tourists and one for locals. I want to experience both. And yes, we will talk about any other interesting aspects of the cuisine.
Rum
What is Caribbean life without rum? Let’s visit a colonial-era distillery together and then delve into modern cocktails and the Nassau bar scene.
Beaches
Ah yes, the beaches. But I want to talk about this from a different standpoint, focusing on locals’ beaches and the Bahamian efforts to preserve coral reefs.
How does all that sound to you? I hope you’re as excited to experience the Bahamas from these different viewpoints, and to go beyond the resorts with me to discover the country’s true character. Of course, my article publishing will be delayed until late April or so, so the best way to follow along in the moment is via my Bluesky account, where I really do try to post daily while on travel.
Below is a map of most of the Bahamas, with a flag on Nassau, sitting on tiny New Providence Island.
