Guatemala is a small country, but one with a mighty culinary footprint. However, despite the terrific cuisine here, few Americans know much – if anything – about Guatemalan food, rather confusing it with regional Mexican dishes.

Part of this is understandable. Guatemalan food has a degree of overlap with Mexican cuisine. There are grilled meats with tortillas, rice and beans (although more beans than rice), tamales, and other recognizable favorites from the U.S.’ southern neighbor. And this makes sense given the shared border between Guatemala and Mexico. But the cuisine is so much more than that.

This guide will try to walk you through Guatemalan food, suggesting dishes to try, and even potentially where to find them (although I try to keep restaurant recommendations to a minimum since my own personal experience isn’t necessarily reflective of what yours will be). I’ll order things by category for ease of use.

Part One: Familiar dishes reminiscent of Mexican food

As mentioned above, a segment of Guatemalan cuisines closely resembles Mexican food. So if you like those dishes, even if you don’t try anything else you’ll enjoy the food here. There are, however, a few small differences.

Let’s start with the basic: grilled meat and tortillas, whether served as tacos or on the side. Chicken is by far the most common meat here in my experience, almost always served on the bone. You can get beef, though it’s more rare, or sausages. Chorizo in Guatemala is mild and smoked, while longaniza is a bit spicier of a sausage. Both are pork. As for the tortillas, in Guatemala they tend to be formed by hand rather than a press, meaning they are a bit less perfectly shaped and a bit thicker.

Grilled chicken. This came with tortillas.

Such dishes will typically come with refried beans, but here in Guatemala, I’ve always had those be black beans. Other sides can be potatoes or plantains. (More on plantains in a moment.) Hot sauce or salsa will vary greatly depending on the establishment, since every place makes their own. It can be chunky or fully blended, red or green, or even just onions and peppers marinated in vinegar and sugar. Most will be on the very spicy side.

Tamales are another overlap food, but with a small difference. Guatemalan tamales are done in banana leaves, and tend to be firmer and smoother than their Mexican cousins. And while occasionally they are served on their own with some sort of meat, more often I found tamales as a side dish with stew, meant to slice and add in as a garnish.

Little tamales.

Part Two: Morning nourishment

This section will be made up of two things: coffee and a traditional Guatemalan breakfast. But let’s start with that most important of morning delights: coffee.

Guatemalan coffee is among the best in the world, as you probably know. And while there are some terrific espresso bars around, most often if you have coffee here it will be brewed or as a pour over. Cafe con leche (with milk) will bring the addition of warmed milk, something I find delightful.

If you want to munch with your coffee, try a champurrada, a Guatemalan sugar cookie that isn’t too sweet. Dip in the coffee, and enjoy!

Coffee and a champurrada

As for food, the “traditional” Guatemalan breakfast is light and delicious, consisting of eggs (typically either fried or scrambled), plantains, black beans (refried is most common), and either bread or tortillas. And salsa, of course. A slightly more “complete” version might include longaniza, a spicy sausage, whether on its own or sautéed with rice. But for me, that basic edition is perfect.

Guatemalan breakfast

I have to admit, I’ve normally not been a fan of plantains. But both in Puerto Rico as tostones and here with my breakfast, I’ve found them delightful. Just goes to show, eat what the locals eat and you’ll generally be happy.

Part Three: Stews of the gods

If Guatemalan cuisine truly shines in an area, it is in its soups and stews. There are a ton of different variations on what is a basic template: meat (generally chicken or beef), potatoes or other root vegetables, rice, and avocado in some sort of thick or thin broth.

Pepian is the national dish. Here, the stew is a mild red sauce, typically with chicken, potatoes, and rice. For a slightly zestier take, try kak’ik, which to me is basically the same thing but with the addition of some red chilis blended in.

Sometimes stews are red.

Hilaches is similar: a red stew, but with shredded beef (maybe chicken is a possibility), and a bit of spice. Or try the green stew jocon, made of green chilis, green tomatoes, and herbs. It is my personal favorite.

Sometimes they are green.

Clear soups are also big here. The Spanish word for broth is caldo, and you can find caldo lists on various menus. These broths will include meat and vegetables, and typically also come with rice and avocado. You can add hot sauce to taste.

Part Four: Specific restaurants

As I said, I tend to stay away from these because I understand that I’m typically going on a single experience, and that doesn’t lead to a pattern I’m confident in. So take these with that caveat in mind.

In Antigua Guatemala, my favorite grilled meat spot is Rincon Antigueno. Just keep in mind it is cash only and can get crowded. For soup, La Casa de las Sopes was terrific although service was slow. And for a midway between traditional and modern sort of place, El Criollo was divine.

If you go to Lake Atitlan, Panajachel’s 7 Caldos had my favorite jocon, and a menu that made me want to try everything.

Favorite coffees: 12 Onzes in Antigua and Crossroads Cafe Jardin in Panajachel.

As for fine dining, I was blown away by Flor de Lis’ tasting menu in Guatemala City. About $100 per person, and worth it for their insane Mayan-modern fusion.

The tamale course at Flor de Lis

So that’s Guatemalan food. It is largely unknown, and under-appreciated. But if you make a trip down to Guatemala, you will find it to be one of the better parts of your experience!

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