It says something, something remarkable, about Los Angeles that this place even exists. The ethnic and cultural intermingling of this city is so extraordinary that this neighborhood was – controversially, I might add, at the time – carved out of another designated cultural area, Koreatown. And, while it is the centerpiece of the Bangladeshi community here in LA, Little Bangladesh is far from mono-ethnic in itself. Over just a couple small blocks, I see Peruvian, Oaxacan, and Korean restaurants, signage in multiple languages, and other evidence of just how wonderfully jumbled the Los Angeles cultural fabric is.

In 2000, the Bangladeshi community in Los Angeles was estimated at around 1200. But by 2010, that was close to 20,000, and Little Bangladesh was born in an official sense. Signage went up the following year, marking a few blocks along 3rd Street, just west of Vermont Avenue. Why did the community from this predominantly Muslim South Asian country end up here? My first stop of the day is a clue.

Just a couple blocks south on Vermont Avenue sits the Islamic Center of Southern California. While the institution dates to 1952, it has been in this location since the 1970s. So it makes sense that a relatively late-coming Muslim immigrant group would congregate in a low-income area near one of the largest mosques in Southern California.

A few blocks back to 3rd and New Hampshire, marking the technical boundary of Little Bangladesh. It’s just before noon, and I’m a bit hungry. After all, when one really considers all of the reasons to visit one of these amazing designated ethnic-cultural neighborhoods, food is right at the top of the list. Fortunately, I’ve done a bit of research ahead of time for where to find the best Bangladeshi food in the area.

I start at Kasturi. This small storefront at the corner of 3rd and Berendo is half restaurant, serving specialty combo plates of some Bangladeshi classics, and half halal grocery store. Lunch is first, though since noon is the crossover between their breakfast and lunch plates (both are similar; remember, savory breakfasts are the norm in most Asian countries), I get the breakfast one. It comes with my choice of flatbread, either beef or chicken, and either vegetables or egg/scallion pancake. Well, two plates means I get to try it all, so I do. (Both breads are amazing, but I end up preferring the beef to the chicken and the egg to the veggies, though all are terrific.) It also comes with milk tea.

For those who have never experienced Bangladeshi cuisine, there is a lot of overlap with basic southern Indian food. Complex spice blends, curries, biryani. But there are a few key differences. First, the spices are a bit sweeter to pair with some heat. Second, there is beef. Third, meat itself is much more common, even served just in a sauce or on a skewer, than in traditional Indian.

Now full, I make my way to the grocery side. If you are looking for spice blends for South Asian cooking, you can’t ask for anything better than this place. It is dizzying just how many there are. Add to it the selection of spices on their own, South Asian snack foods, and other specialty ingredients, and it’s a challenge to only leave with a few items. Kashmiri chili powder? Why yes, I think I will. Chickpea masala spice blend? Yum! Something snackish called “Hot, Extra Crunch” also finds its way into my bag. I’ll report back.

Of the officially designated Los Angeles ethic-cultural neighborhoods I’ve explored so far (you can check these links for Thai Town, Little Tokyo, Chinatown, and Persian Square), Little Bangladesh is the smallest. So it is just a short walk from Kasturi to Aladin, a shop offering a selection of Bangladeshi sweets. If you’ve ever had Indian donuts, called gulab jamun, these are similar. They are small pastries made of chickpea flower, fried or baked, and soaked in sweet syrups. I pick a few at random with some help from the guy at the counter. Sweet is definitely at the forefront of the experience, almost too much so for my own personal palate. But definitely tasty!

My last stop is for some takeaway. After all, why have one set of new (to me) food when I can have two? But I’m full so it has to be for later. Biryani Kabob House is my pick, and after much deliberation, I decide on lamb biryani and their mix kabob, which has a bit of everything. All I can say is wow. Portions are huge, and the food is incredible, which is especially important since I will be eating leftovers for a few more meals. They also have a ton of great looking stews. I’ll be back.

I know I say this frequently, but days like this are why I love Los Angeles. This city is just so diverse, but more than that, the myriad cultures that make it so wonderful are celebrated. Little Bangladesh is no exception, providing a home for a lovely immigrant community and a learning point for people like me. Visit, eat, and enjoy!

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