I enter through the gates of Manuel Antonio National Park around 730am. It is already crowded; although the park only admits 1200 visitors per day it is small and doesn’t allow for a large dispersal. It is also already hot here on Costa Rica’s Pacific coast, probably 80 degrees Fahrenheit and an equal amount of humidity. And as the day progresses, it will only get hotter.

Manual Antonio National Park was established in 1972 as a result of public outcry that this stunning section of beach, with rain forest extending to the sand itself, was potentially going to be turned into a resort. It is small, less than 5000 acres of land area (plus some areas of marine protection), but a lot is packed into such a tiny area besides the tourists. In addition to beaches on both sides of a tiny jut of a peninsula called Cathedral Point, the park contains rain forest, mangrove forest, and – during the wet season – swamp.

Nobody seems to know exactly where the name comes from. Theories range from it being named for one of the leaders of the conservation movement to there once being a cross on this site with that name on it.

It is Costa Rica’s most visited national park, due in part to its inclusion on Forbes’ most beautiful beaches in the world (specifically for Manuel Antonio Beach, one of the two on the sides of that tiny peninsula). And when you consider that only 1200 are allowed in per day, those waiting their turn make the surrounding towns even busier.

The beaches in those towns are incredible, but there is something about walking through thick jungle to find the sparkling blue of a sheltered Pacific bay in front of you – and without any development beyond a restroom – that is truly magical. So for many visitors here to Manuel Antonio National Park, this spot is the one and only stop. You can bring beach blankets and towels in with you (just no food and no drinks besides a reusable water bottle; disposable bottles are illegal in all of Costa Rica’s national parks), purchase a snack from the nearby snack stand (you’ll have to eat it there inside of monkey-proof bars), and make a day of the warm water.

And if you get bored, just fifteen meters or so away, on the other side of that tiny peninsula, is another beach, just not quite as perfect.

But for me, and for the majority of those who purchase their tickets months in advance to make sure they get admission, the wildlife here at Manuel Antonio National Park is the reason for a visit. Since the park is so small, and since it is so closely bordered by resort towns, there is an intense concentration of animal life here. (Trees and other plants, too, of course, but those are less exciting to most.)

My most common wildlife encounters are actually crabs. There are hermit crabs on the beach, but the Halloween crabs in the forest are large (up to six or so inches across) and vibrantly colored.

Spiny tailed iguanas can also be seen regularly, especially near the beaches. They definitely don’t seem bothered by tourists angling to take their photos.

Manuel Antonio is home to three different monkey species, but the only ones who decide to say hi to me are white faced capuchins. They are adorable. They are fascinating to watch. They are also, as my guide puts it, the Costa Rican mafia, and will steal food and belongings from people. So while the urge may be to get as close as possible, try to resist it.

There are more birds, bugs, reptiles, bats, and other things than can be mentioned, but the “main” event for so many is the sloth. Both two- and three-toed varieties exit here in the park, and I saw no less than five. But this one, super close to one of the main paths, is as personal as I’ll probably ever get with one of these adorable animals.

And if you zoom in (as I did taking this photo through a scope my guide had), you’ll notice that this sloth has a baby with her.

Manuel Antonio National Park shows us the power of nature being protected, but it also serves as a warning to allow that nature some buffers. My hotel is only a few minutes’ drive from the park entrance, and those same capuchins find it easier to leave the boundaries of their nature preserve and take fruit from the plates and glasses of tourists enjoying tropical food and cocktails. Crocodiles from the park have had encounters with surfers… and those haven’t ended well for the surfers. That the park exists is amazing, but its tiny size and being surrounded by humans add some challenges.

I spend only the morning inside Manuel Antonio National Park. By the time I leave to get lunch back in town, it is well over 90 degrees, and the people are still coming in. Perhaps these are merely the beach goers, but it will be a sweaty afternoon for them regardless.

A day spent in Costa Rica’s Manuel Antonio will be a good day. You’ll be likely – of course, there is never a guarantee – to spot some cool wildlife, especially with a guide who is trained to spot it. And even if you don’t, you’ll enjoy some truly spectacular beaches. It is paradise in its purest form.

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