There is no question that Cabo San Lucas, the southernmost point on the Baja California peninsula, is beautiful. The turquoise of the water here could be mistaken for the Caribbean, though it comes with reasonable surf at this point, where the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez meet. Mountains surround the town, with low trees and cacti adorning them. And a trail of rocks and cliffs extends to the very tip of the land, offering contrast to the blue of the ocean stretching to the horizon.

I adjust in my beach chair, trying to imagine what this place would have looked like before 1974, when the Mexican government began an intensive campaign to turn Cabo San Lucas into the tourism hub it is today. It was merely a tiny fishing town at that point. It is hard to picture today, when the entire area is covered – overrun might be a better word – with resorts, shops, and restaurants, and a city of more than 200,000 that exists merely to support that tourist infrastructure.

I sigh as a second cruise ship pulls into the bay. The ships aren’t able to dock, so they anchor offshore, blocking my view of the rocks that make up Land’s End. Ant trails of small craft move between the floating cities and the one on land, intermingling with the sailboats and fishing vessels that call this port home.

Cabo San Lucas, just called Cabo by most, is Mexico’s Pacific coast answer to Cancun, a place that has no real purpose for existence outside of catering to tourists. It is a city of resorts and cruise passengers, of clubs and restaurants, of Mexican food for gringos and US mega-chains. If you are looking for the real Mexico here, you’ve come to the wrong place.

That isn’t to say that Cabo isn’t a nice place and that there aren’t reasons to come here. Beauty is worth something, as is relaxation. Good food counts for a lot. So if you are here, and you are looking for a good time, let’s go over some things you might want to consider.

First and foremost, get out on the water. While there can be some significant chop, especially on a breezy day, the water is clear, clean, and so blue it will make your heart melt. You will find many resorts have kayaks or stand-up paddle boards to rent (or even for free if you are staying there), and an hour or two spent exercising while staring at the water, the boats, and the resorts is time well spent.

You can also consider chartering a fishing trip. The city’s past as a fishing village has led to a present of both commercial fishing and tourist trips. Several restaurants in Cabo San Lucas’ marina (more on this in a bit) offer to cook the fish you catch, and I’m guessing that your charter captain will point you to his/her favorite. I’ve never actually been fishing in any form, and while I don’t get to it on this trip, it would be at the top of my list if I return.

Finally, boats will take you from the beach resorts (seriously, they pull up onto the beach to get guests) to tour Land’s End and Cabo’s famous sea arch, and will then drop you off at a beach if you wish, to return in a set number of hours.

These beaches are only accessible by boat, so they are less crowded on a normal day, and more pristine. Just note that the surf can be significant, and you’ll have to get off the boat and back on. (There are locals to help on both sides, especially with your belongings, so you only have to worry about yourself.) And even if you don’t get off, the hour or so roundup on the boat is time you’ll enjoy.

Cabo San Lucas also offers land activities. The desert mountains are beautiful, and there are horseback riding and ATVing experiences for those desiring a bit more adventure.

But of course, the primary reasons to choose Cabo as a destination are for the relaxation, the drinking, and the high-end dining. So let’s talk a bit about some food options.

First are foremost, Baja California is known for fish tacos. Get some. I personally enjoy the tacos at Los Origenes on the marina, but you probably can’t go wrong anywhere. Sea bass seems to be the fish of choice here, and it was probably caught fresh the morning you eat it.

If you want something a bit more upscale, my personal favorite dining experience was at Sunset Monalisa, a bit outside of the central downtown area. It is pricy, and either a three or six course set menu, but the food is fantastic and the view is better. Live music helps the ambience.

The Cabo San Lucas marina is the best place to go to just wander in search of food, with options all along the spectrum from casual to formal. Plus it doesn’t hurt to watch the pelicans and the sea lions from your table. It can get crowded here during the day when cruise ships are in town, but evenings slow down.

Cabo San Lucas is not destined to be one of my favorite places. Culture here is fairly non-existent since the city really only exists to service tourists. But it is beautiful, and there are worse ways to spend time than relaxing on a lovely beach, taking breaks for gourmet – if overpriced – food. I wouldn’t rush to come back, but neither would I avoid it.

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