There is something special about pesto. The fresh taste of basil, the sharpness of garlic, the umami of nuts, the creaminess of cheese, the smoothness of olive oil… they come together magically when done right. And this city, Genoa, in northwestern Italy is the birthplace of pesto.
Genoa is also one of the origin cities of that most wonderful of Italian flatbreads, focaccia. It is crispy, soft, buttery, and perfect… again, when done right.
With these two basic elements of Genoese cooking, let’s explore this city through its pesto and focaccia, and a couple of other unique variants.
While there were likely predecessors to the pesto dating back centuries or even millennia, the modern pesto Genovese (Genoese pesto) seems to only have existed since roughly the 19th century, when basil and pine nuts were combined with garlic into a paste for pasta as a recipe in a local cookbook. Today’s ingredients are just those mentioned above: basil, pine nuts, olive oil, cheese, and garlic. Any other variations are not a “true” pesto.
A traditional pesto is made by hand using a mortar and pestle, and it is said that even stores selling large quantities still do it this way. (I would bet that shelf-stable pesto in a jar from a supermarket is probably done in huge vats and blenders, instead.)
Pesto is available in Genoa everywhere. And while it can be part of many dishes, one stands out that is ubiquitous to every restaurant menu: trofie al pesto. Trofie is a type of pasta, basically a short thick spaghetti that is twisted. (I’m sure Italians would flay me for this description.) It is traditionally Ligurian (Genoa is the capital of the Liguria region of Italy) and I don’t believe I’ve seen it anywhere else. Something about the shape is said to be best with pesto, the way the curves pick up the sauce, but not so much of it as something like rotini, maybe.
Every restaurant makes their pesto by hand, and each one is slightly different. Some are more chunky, with pieces of basil still seen; others are much more fine in their texture. Some are more or less liquidy, depending on the amount of olive oil, or adding of pasta water to thin them. Some are more basil-forward, while others seem to have more of another ingredient.
I’m sure every person would also have a different favorite pesto. My personal favorite trofie al pesto was at Trattoria Le Maschere, but it’s hard to compare them when they aren’t eaten at the same time.
Of course, it isn’t just the traditional trofie as a pasta vehicle for pesto. During my month, in addition to trying no fewer than six different versions of trofie al pesto, I also had pesto with gnocchi and lasagna. The lasagna forno al pesto I can truly recommend is at Settepolpette.
One more random way to have pesto is in Genoese minestrone. Take a good minestrone soup, add enough pesto that it can be eaten with a fork, and go to town.
As for store-bought? After trying four different ones, the winner is clear. Pestobene is a specialty store that sells the easy top jarred pesto in Genoa. It is not shelf stable, though, so taking it home won’t be an option.
Focaccia’s origins are a bit less clear. What is known is that here in Genoa, a style emerged that has become the most dominant. Genoese focaccia has holes in it called dimples, and is brushed with olive oil (which tastes almost buttery after baking) and salt. And here in the city, it seems to most commonly be eaten with morning coffee.
At Le Fantasie di Gio, my go-to morning cappuccino was recommended to me with their fresh warm focaccia. I was skeptical at first, but the salty goes well with the coffee, and theirs is my favorite focaccia in the city. Try it!
Of course, for both focaccia and pesto, there are some varietals that aren’t exactly classic, but are spectacular to try. Let’s start with focaccia, where all over the city, focacciarias serve up the tasty bread but topped or even stuffed with all sorts of ingredients. From green olives or onions to cheese or even to pesto, there seems to be a pretty wide variation that allows for some extra tasting. Focaccia e Dintorni basically always has a long line, and for good reason. (Also try their pistachio tarts.)
As for new versions of pesto, you can find my favorite take on it at traditional Ligurian restaurants, such as Trattoria Vegia Zena, with a sauce made from walnuts instead of pine nuts, and without the basil. It’s almost orange in color when found in a jar (though not so much at a restaurant), and delightful. Look for salsa di noci on a menu.
I didn’t specifically come to Genoa for the food. But it was definitely a point in the city’s favor. After a solid month eating pesto at least two or three times a week in one form or other (I even use my Pestobene jarred pesto to make salad dressing for meals at home), and focaccia just as often, I am not sick of either. I will miss them when I leave, and they will probably anchor my desire to return to this awesome place.
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