“Sint Eustatius has the product. The challenge is getting people here.” For about the seventh time in the past hour, I repeat these exact words to Luceta. Luceta works for the government here on Sint Eustatius, or Statia as it’s normally called. Her portfolio involves tourism, and she is intimately involved in the island’s brand new comprehensive plan around that sector.

The fact that we are sitting here at the Old Gin House, my favorite spot in Oranjestad, the island’s capital and only real town, is in itself a fun story, something that only seems to happen on small Caribbean islands. Just this morning, I was having breakfast (a stunning bacon, egg, and cheese sandwich) at Sandbox Tree Bakery, a mere block from Fort Oranje here in town. As I am wont to do, I struck up a conversation with a random patron, a young man wearing a government shirt. I asked about his work, and over the course of about ten minutes, Uri and I were friends. (Again, I can’t even put into words how normal of an experience things like this are in this part of the world, despite being almost unheard of back at home.)

Part of the Old Gin House. The restaurant is behind me.

I offered to meet Uri for a drink after he was off work to continue our conversation, and encouraged him to bring a colleague if he wanted. And so I met another new friend in Luceta.

I take another sip of my mai tai – it is strong here – and repeat myself for now the eighth time. “Statia has the product; the challenge is getting the right people here.”

A strong mai tai

Sint Eustatius is a tiny Dutch island in the northeastern Caribbean, just south of the tourism mecca of Sint Maarten/Saint-Martin. The island is roughly eight square miles (although it feels smaller since both the northern and southern ends are mountainous national parks) and home to a mere 3500 residents. And with fewer than 200 hotel rooms (as Luceta tells me off the top of her head, so please don’t hold her to that), it feels very empty.

But what a punch Statia packs into such a small place! There are basically two sorts of people who want to make the trip here: devotees of nature and lovers of history.

For the former, Sint Eustatius offers its two national parks (note that Boven National Park in the north is closed in 2026 for a culling of the feral goat population), with trails ranging from gentle climbs around the coastline to a summiting of The Quill, the volcano in the south of the island. There are also two marine parks, making this a haven for divers.

Staring up at the Quill

As for the history, well, that’s the reason I made the three night trip from my base in Sint Maarten. Sint Eustatius was the most important Dutch colony in the Caribbean during the 17th and 18th centuries, and was even the first government to officially recognize the United States in 1776. (Click here to read all about the history of Sint Eustatius.) The island offers both intact and ruined colonial heritage buildings, and some amazing stories that go with.

Fort Oranje

Add to that some terrific food, like my Dutch and Caribbean fare here at the Old Gin House or my Johnny cakes and salt cod for brunch at Breeze (the restaurant associated with Golden Rock, the island’s most luxurious resort), and strong rum drinks with sultry sunsets, and the product here truly is amazing, a place I can easily recommend.

Johnny cakes, salt cod, and eggs at Breeze

It’s the getting here that is the challenge, and one that Luceta says the government is working to address. Getting to Sint Eustatius involves either a long ferry or a short flight in a tiny plane. (Click here to read about my experience on Winair.)

A small plane

And with limited tourist infrastructure like hotels, limited restaurant options, and no real public transportation, it can be a daunting trip.

Well, I can’t do much about the tiny plane, although there are plans in the works for a larger aircraft to do regular service from Sint Maarten if the demand is there. But the rest? Here are some recommendations from my own experience.

I stayed at Talk of the Town Inn and Suites, a simple but very comfortable hotel about a fifteen minute walk (or five minute drive) from Fort Oranje and the associated historical sights around it. I’d gladly stay again. It was quiet, clean, and the management was truly incredible. Example: I asked where to get coffee in the morning and was provided a Nespresso machine and pods to make that easier for me.

Talk of the Town’s cabanas and pool

I used Statia Rentals for a car (you’ll need one if you want to do anything not arranged by a resort). The car was waiting for me at the airport, and was easily able to navigate even the less-well-paved of the island’s roads. Tell Sebastian I sent you, and he will take good care of you!

Back at the Old Gin House, I finish the last few sips of my mai tai, eat my last bite of fried Gouda, and smile at my new friends. I watch the remnants of the sunset, amazed at where life can take me.

Sunset with remains of an old pier and the island of Saba in the distance

Before my trip to Sint Maarten last year, I’d never heard of Sint Eustatius. Most people in my life who I’ve told I was coming here haven’t heard of this tiny island. But in just two days here, I can only wonder why I hadn’t thought to come before now.

And the island is only going to get better. Reforestation efforts are ongoing, as is coral regeneration. Preservation of historic sites is progressing, and many of them will soon be including VR tours of what they would have looked like during the golden age of the Golden Rock, as Statia was called during colonial times. It’s an exciting period here, and one that will definitely draw me back to see what happens next.

So yes, the challenge is getting here. But let me tell you this. If you do, if you are able to navigate the small plane and the fairly limited options for those things that some tourists need, you will find on Sint Eustatius an experience you’ll never forget. Beautiful nature, fascinating history, good food, and new friends await. Statia awaits.

Don’t leave her waiting.

Thank you to Talk of the Town Inn and Suites for hosting my stay, and to Statia Rentals for helping with my car.

Like it? Pin it!

Leave a Reply