New Zealand’s North Island doesn’t get the love that the South Island gets when it comes to natural beauty. The region around Auckland especially doesn’t seem to attract too many tourists. Those stay in the city, and leave it for a few special things: a glow worm cave perhaps (amazing experience, by the way, although the one I visited didn’t allow photos) or Hobbiton, about two hours south. Some take ferries to the many islands outside of Auckland. But few come here to the green spaces just west of the city, between Auckland and the western shore.

That’s too bad, because not only is this a stunningly beautiful area, but one that holds one of New Zealand’s natural treasures: the kauri tree.

This article was originally going to focus on the Arataki area outside of Auckland, and the natural beauty around Karekare Beach. And I’ll mention those briefly here since they are truly stunning, from the views into the city at the Arataki Visitors Center to the black sands of the beach, to the Karekare Falls ten minutes inland.

They are worth seeing on their own.

But upon standing in the presence of a 500 or more year old kauri tree, I fell absolutely in love. So instead, I want to talk about these magnificent trees, their life cycle, and the immense challenges facing them today so that we can all come together to protect those that remain.

The kauri tree is the largest tree in New Zealand, although not the tallest. Trees can grow over 150 feet tall, but it is the massive girth that is most noticeable, with huge mature kauris exceeding 15 feet in diameter. Trunks appear almost gray-white, and with mature trees having shed their lower branches, that stands out against the green of the New Zealand forest. That shedding of branches, along with a bark that – in mature trees – flakes off, helps to protect the kauri against parasitic vines that could otherwise climb and kill the tree.

The range of kauri trees is limited to begin with, but within that they haven’t necessarily been exceedingly rare. Basically, they naturally exist in the northern part of New Zealand’s North Island, roughly the Auckland region and north. Yes, some exist outside of that, but those don’t seem to be within the “natural” range, and were likely planted by people rather than via normal kauri reproduction. However, within their habitat, they are the most spectacular of species, so basically anywhere one naturally finds a kauri is known as kauri forest, even though it is never the most abundant tree.

Kauris reproduce via cones. Their cones remain on the tree for a long period and then open to reveal seeds that are carried on the wind. Until those take root, they are vulnerable, much more so than seeds that rely on animals to eat and spread them. That also limits their range and expansion.

The trees grow slowly, and hundred year old kauris are significantly smaller than their age would suggest. This, again, limits their natural spread.

One of the most fascinating aspects of a mature kauri is its sap. Called gum, it is more hard to the touch, and then resembles amber when dried and aged. It has been harvested for jewelry.

Like other large hardwood trees, kauris were prized by the Maori for constructing canoes, which had to be done from a single trunk, and for logging. As a result, an estimated 90% of the beautiful mature kauri trees were cut down by 1900. But the rest are under threat now, and not only from logging.

Kauri dieback is a disease specifically in kauri trees cause by something that is sort of a fungus (has spores) and sort of not, and which I don’t fully understand from a scientific perspective. What I do know is that in less than two decades since discovery in the New Zealand kauri forests, it has killed a huge percentage of kauris here. And it has caused the government (both national and at local levels) to take major steps to prevent its spread into what remains of the kauri trees.

Areas with kauris – especially mature ones – are now controlled as far as access goes. Visitors pass through formal or informal sanitation stations, which involves scrubbing and disinfecting one’s shoes, as that’s where the spores are carried. This was sadly done on the late side, but late is better than never and the hope is it will prevent spread to what remains of the mature kauris.

If saved from logging and disease, the kauri tree can be absolutely enormous. The largest one is currently Tane Mahuta, God of the Forest, and while its age is unknown, some estimates are as high as 2500 years! It is 158 feet tall with a trunk circumference of nearly 51 feet!

So if you happen to be in Auckland, try to get out of the city. Visit a pretty place, like this one, and see a big tree. You might also just fall in love with that aspect of this incredible country.

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