Florence, the birthplace of the Renaissance. It’s a small city, and unimportant in modern Italy, but a hub for tourism. Along with Rome and Venice, Florence is one of the places on nearly every Italian trip itinerary. And rightfully so. The city is beautiful, and has a lot to do. It also makes a great staging point for seeing the rest of Tuscany, and even some places further afield.
I spent nearly a full month in Florence, and even in that time I didn’t do nearly everything the city has to offer. But I’ll share from my personal experiences and try to help you create your perfect Florence itinerary.
Don’t forget to click the links throughout this guide to read more specific articles on different aspects of Florence, and if you enjoy the guide, please click here to read out Ultimate Guides from all over the world!
Getting There
You can fly into Florence, although the airport is small and will require at least one change coming from the US. That said, for most visitors, Florence is only one part of an Italian itinerary. They will fly into one of the more major airports and then come here by train. There are direct high speed trains to Florence from Rome, Milan, and Venice, so that’s a pretty easy thing to do and the likely way you will arrive.
Florence’s Santa Maria Novella station is a reasonably sized but easily navigable train station with about twenty platforms. From here, you can either catch a cab or walk to your lodging. (There are also tram and bus lines, but will not make too much sense for where you’ll be going as a tourist.)
Getting Around
With the exception of those with mobility issues, you’ll pretty much walk around Florence. Other than the hills on the south side of the Arno, the city is mainly flat, and just about all streets have sidewalks.
However, there are some things to keep in mind when walking around Florence. First, many of the sidewalks are narrow, and if they are crowded, it will necessitate stepping into the street at times. Even on one-way or pedestrian-only streets, look out in every direction for cars, especially taxis. And scooters. And bikes. Secondly, many of the streets and sidewalks are uneven stone, so be sure to watch your step.
From one end of the city center to the other is a roughly fifteen to thirty minute walk depending on pace, route, and exactly where one considers the “end.”
What to Do
If you’re in Florence, the odds are you want to experience those incredible Renaissance buildings and art pieces that set this city apart. Let’s start with art. There are more art museums in Florence than you will have days here, unless you have close to a month and want to see nothing but art museums. The “big three” are the Uffizi, the Accademia, and the Bargello. All are relatively expensive and extensive, so unless art is your primary reason to visit, you might want to prioritize one or two. I only visited the Uffizi, which is free on the first Sunday of the month (but will have a very long line). I highly recommend it, especially the da Vinci room. (Click here to read about Leonardo da Vinci.)
The Accademia is where Michelangelo’s David resides, although you can see copies outside the Palazzo Vecchio and in Piazzale Michelangelo for free (the latter is in bronze). You can also experience Michelangelo stuff at his home of Casa Buonarroti, the Medici Chapel, and several other places. (Click here to read about Michelangelo and Renaissance art.)
Obviously, the most famous building in Florence is the Duomo. Spend time walking the outside; see it in different light. The inside is, in my opinion, not worth visiting, although you might consider a dome tour for a different perspective. (I did not do this.) For more Renaissance architecture, check out the San Lorenzo basilica to see Brunelleschi’s first dome, considered the first Renaissance building. (Click here to read about Renaissance architecture.)
There are a plethora of palaces in Florence, as well, most of which seemed to be home to the most famous family, the Medici. (Click here to read about the Medici.) The Palazzo Vecchio is worth a visit and has a fairly modest admission cost. If you are really fascinated by the Medici, check out the Medici Chapel for one of the most beautiful buildings in the city, as well as the burial places of most of the family.
Of course, Florence existed before the Renaissance. Make sure to cross the Ponte Vecchio, and cross a bridge on one side or the other of it for better views. (Click here to read about Florence before the Renaissance.) And you might want to visit the Santa Croce basilica, the oldest in the city, and the final resting place of many of Florence’s most famous residents.
Want a view of the city? Piazzale Michelangelo is the most accessible spot, although you can also consider the Belvedere Fort. Florence is amazing from the hills above, but sunset will be very crowded.
My unsung gem in Florence is Museo Galileo, which has easily the best exhibition of scientific equipment from the Renaissance onward that I’ve ever seen, especially Galileo’s personal telescopes. (Click here to read about Galileo.)
Finally, you might want to consider a day trip. During my stay I did three: Pisa (click here to read about it), Siena (click here), and a full day tour to the Cinque Terre (click here).
Where to Stay
As long as you are an easy walk to the center, it almost doesn’t matter. If you are one who prefers US chain hotels, most here are of the upscale variety. There’s a St. Regis, an amazing Marriott Autograph Collection property, and things of that ilk. For cheaper hotels, you’ll need to use European brands or independent hotels.
There are also Airbnb properties, although I cannot recommend the one I used. (It was right by the Autograph property mentioned above, so I can vouch for both that hotel and its area, though.)
What to Eat
Florence is the capital of Tuscany, one of the best food regions in a country that has a ton of great food regions. Pretty much anything you get will be good, but let’s talk through some of the specialties.
First, there is bruschetta. It is not always tomato on bread like we think of, but can also be nearly anything on toasted bread. But the tomatoes here are other worldly, so look for those.
Florence is known for Chianina beef. It is lean, super flavorful, and very expensive. Most places that serve it will also have a minimum amount. (The place I went was 1.5kg for two.) If you like beef and have the budget, it’s absolutely worth a try. (Be sure to actually get Chianina beef. Some restaurants will offer Florentine steak, but it isn’t the same quality.)
Tuscany is known for wild boar, typically served as a ragu over pasta. It is lovely. Pair it with a glass of Chianti, the local red wine.
Like most of Italy, truffles are a big deal. You can find them (called tartufo in Italian) on many menus, but you can also go to a chain of shops called La Bottega del Tartufo for some cool stuff to bring home.
I’d also like to give a shout out to my favorite coffee place in Florence, one I visited at least four times a week: Caffeteria Castorino. €1.50 for an amazing cappuccino, good wifi, and amazing service. Tell them Jonathan says hi!
Beyond that, eat more pasta, have some gelato, or another glass of wine, and just enjoy the culinary life here.
Other Useful Information
A note on food prices. The closer to the center you are, the more expensive things will be. While sometimes that’s ok, it’s also nice to get out of the center (across the Arno or up toward where I stayed) for better quality and cheaper options.
Dress codes in churches are enforced. Make sure to have your shoulders and knees covered if you are planning to see one. Or even if you aren’t, as you never know what you might walk past and want to go into.
Florence has a TON of tourists. Things will be crowded, and mainly not by locals. If that is something that doesn’t sit well with you, visit the more popular sights on slower days, or focus on those that are a bit less popular. But the Duomo will always be crowded, as will some of the other top attractions.
Conclusion
Florence is great. It is beautiful, it has a load of culture, it has amazing food, and it has a ton of tourists. That last one is a negative, but not so much so that it ruins the positives. No, there isn’t as much going on as in Rome, but there doesn’t have to be. It is a chance to step back into the Renaissance, and out of modern day Italy. Take that chance.
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