My trip to Belgium has been in the works for years. My sister-in-law is a big fan of craft beers (don’t confuse that with a big drinker; I had to offer the disclaimer since my statement read funny to me) and has long said that Belgium has the best beer in the world. (You can click here to read about our experience with beer.) I, on the other hand, tolerate beer but will probably never be a big fan. I was just as excited to plan a trip to Belgium, though. After all, in addition to beer, the country is known for two things I like a lot: chocolate and waffles.

So after being on pause for Covid, and being on pause for timing, and being on pause for inertia, the trip finally happened. And I’ll tell you what: for all the press that Belgian chocolate and waffles get, the real stuff is better.

Our journey through these culinary delights began our first morning in Brussels, the Belgian capital. After walking to Grand Place in the center of the city (click here to read about Grand Place and some of Brussels’ history), we joined the line waiting for the opening – 10am – of Maison Dandoy. This institution has been serving some of Brussels’ finest waffles since 1829. We looked at the menu, and noticed two different kinds of waffle, Brussels and Liege. Well, we were in Brussels, so that’s where we started.

A few minutes later, we were sitting outside (inside seating means higher costs for the same waffle) with the most decadent Belgian waffle I’ve ever had. Crispy and fluffy at the same time, mine was topped with strawberries, whipped cream, and yes, melted Belgian chocolate. It never stood a chance. Mere moments later, it had been fully devoured, and my Belgian culinary adventure was officially underway.

The first known waffle recipe dates to fifteenth century France. And with France controlling much of what is now Belgium on and off, it is no wonder they took off here. In fact, Belgian waffle makers would be the first to add yeast, making waffles the fluffy things we see today. Brussels waffles are what we generally think of as Belgian waffles, the sort you’d get at an American brunch place. Liege waffles are smaller, sort of roundish, and much much chewier. They are dense, and baked with pearl sugar which crystallizes both on the interior and exterior. More on that in a bit.

Waffle – first waffle, to be exact – devoured, it was time to embark into the chocolate side of the adventure. Just a couple blocks down the street from Maison Dandoy is Choco-Story, a museum about the story of chocolate. It is much bigger than it seems from the outside, and after a good first impression (a piece of chocolate with admission), it was time to explore what led chocolate to Belgium. The museum takes visitors on a somewhat cheesy but fun adventure via audio guide from the jungles of Central America to the courts of Europe. We explored chocolate’s origins, its varieties, its chemical makeup, and its cultivation before getting into ways it has been enjoyed in different places over different eras.

Chocolate arrived in Belgium via Spain in roughly 1635. (The country was under Spanish control at that point.) Like in other European countries, it took off, and local artisans began to add their own spin on the treat. The biggest innovation added by Belgium to the story of chocolate is the praline, chocolate filled with, typically, fruit or nuts.

Naturally, the museum visit ends with a demonstration of the making of pralines. The chef created a hazelnut praline, narrating in three languages as she did, and then set them out to sample. Divine!

The first praline was introduced in 1912 by Jean Neuhaus II here in Brussels. His namesake chocolate shop is now in more places here than Starbucks, and some varied praline bars get added to my backpack for transport back home to eager family and friends who know I was here to write this story.

As our week in Belgium progressed, chocolate and waffle experiences would mount. On a chilly morning I’d try my first Liege waffle, and quickly decide that I preferred the Brussels variety. (While it is said that many locals also love their waffles, it should be noted that the only place I saw specific waffle shops was in the center around Grand Place. Chocolate shops, on the other hand, are three to a block.) The Liege waffle would make a great snack to go, as its density would better allow walking and munching, but for a sit down meal, it was a bit too chewy for my taste. You might want to consider getting extra butter or something to soften it.

Chocolate bars and boxes would be added to my suitcase from Leonidas, the second largest chain as far as I can tell (to Neuhaus), and a couple of one-off upscale shops, like Mary in Antwerp. Samples were procured from several more, though I was conscious that my luggage would be more chocolate than clothing if I continued down that road.

But perhaps the best chocolate moment came in Bruges, when we fought off a chilly wind with what is easily the best hot chocolate I’ve ever had. Olivier’s has several varieties. I opted for milk, while my sister-in-law had dark, and we both came to the same conclusion. We had several of the beverages at various establishments in Belgium. This one took the cake. The chocolate cake.

Belgium is a cool country. The beer is great, the history is fascinating, and the sights are lovely. But nothing – nothing – can top the chocolate and the waffles. Those alone are worth a trip!

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