Tokyo is obviously Japan’s premier gateway, and at about 40 million people in the metro area, is the largest city in the world. But this region, called Kansai, is Japan’s second largest (roughly 20 million) and maybe the most popular part of the country with tourists. Sitting to the southwest of Tokyo, roughly 2-3 hours by bullet train away, Kansai is made up of the metropolises of Osaka, Kobe, and Kyoto, as well as smaller cities like Nara.
For most first-time Japan visitors, this will be the second – and often final – area seen after Tokyo. (You can click here to read an earlier Ultimate Guide to a First-Time Japan Trip.) And that is as it should be. But even for returners, there are so many things to do and see here, and a rather large variety of experiences to have. Some of those are amazing; others are – for me – less so.
This guide will seek to share my personal experiences from two visits to the Kansai region of Japan. We will eat Kobe beef, explore some of the temples of Kyoto, visit Osaka, and feed the “sacred” deer in Nara. But despite multiple weeks spent, I feel like I’ve still barely scratched the surface of the region. I will only talk about things I’ve personally experienced. Please click the links throughout the guide for more in-depth articles about specific aspects of or cities within the region.
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Getting There
Yes, you can fly into Osaka. But you won’t. 99% of flights from the U.S. head into Tokyo, and you can click here to read my guide to Tokyo. From Tokyo, you’ll take a Shinkansen – the Japanese bullet train – down to the Kansai region. It will be roughly $80 as of this writing and the 150 yen to the dollar exchange rate. It can take from two to four hours depending on which “version” of bullet train you take. (There are a few different ones that stop at different numbers of stops, but all will stop in both Kyoto and Osaka from Tokyo, and all take the same route.)
You will likely be based either in Kyoto or Osaka, as those cities have the most to do and the widest variety of hotels. Kyoto Station is a stop on the Shinkansen. For Osaka, you’ll get off at Shin-Osaka and take a seven minute train from there to Osaka Station, which the Shinkansen doesn’t serve directly.
(For those few cruises that serve Japan, there can also be stops both in Osaka and in Kobe. I am not positive how accessible the cruise terminals are to the main stations for zipping around the region.)
Getting Around
With a region made up of several large cities, this can be a bit more complicated. Let’s start with getting between cities. This will mostly be done on the Tokaido (A) Line that connects Kyoto to Osaka and then Kobe. (Yes, you can take the Shinkansen, but it’s more expensive.) The trains can get very crowded, so if you want to make sure you have an actual seat, buy a fare on the green car, Japan’s version of first class. It is about 45 minutes from Kyoto to Osaka, and another 30 to Kobe beyond.
There are also some smaller lines connecting cities, but not servicing the entire region. For instance, to reach Nara from Kyoto, one can take either the JapanRail Nara Line or the Kintetsu (a private company) Nara Line. Tickets for different lines will be at separate machines, and sometimes – as in Nara – trains for different lines can even stop at totally separate stations. I typically use Google Maps to plan my route, as it shows times and prices. Note: it will not offer the Shinkansen as an option.
Within each city, you’ll have local transit as well. Osaka has two main options, JapanRail and the Osaka Metro subway. (There is also the Hanshin Line that connects to Kobe but serves a number of stops, for instance. It can get confusing.) Transferring between systems is not allowed without purchasing a separate ticket.
Within Kyoto, there are a couple of subway lines, but mostly you’ll be taking buses. Unlike subways and trains, on Japanese buses you pay upon exiting. You’ll need cash, and exact fare as there isn’t change offered on many, if you don’t have a prepaid transit card.
What to Do
There is a ton, and let’s separate it out by city. A visit to Kyoto is highlighted by the stunning temples like Kinkaku-Ji (the Golden Pavilion). In addition, Kyoto is probably the best place in Japan to take part in some of the more traditional aspects of Japanese culture, like a tea ceremony or Geisha performance. That said, I don’t like Kyoto and you can click here to read why, despite the amazing sights.
Osaka is my favorite city in Kansai, combining a powerhouse modern metropolis with some cool history. (Click here to read about Osaka.) Osaka Castle is – I think – the most beautiful in Japan. I’d like to spend more time here exploring, rather than returning to Kyoto.
Kobe is best known for Kobe beef, and rightly so. But the city also has a historic sake district, where you can taste sake from several breweries. (Click here to read about Kobe.) That is how I’ve spent both of my days in Kobe.
A day in Nara is certain to make you smile. While there are several awesome temples to see, focus a day there on Nara Park – where you can feed the sacred deer – and the Todai-Ji temple, the world’s largest wooden building. (Click here to read about Nara.)
Obviously, there is more in the region, especially in the major cities. Kyoto has literally dozens of spectacular temples. Osaka has the world’s largest aquarium. But those are the basic highlights that will help you decide how to structure your time.
Where to Stay
I’m going to focus less on specific properties and more on locations. In both Kyoto and Osaka you have the entire gamut of hotels, from ultra luxury to budget, both American chains and other. (You do want to make sure, if booking a non-chain hotel, that it has beds and not tatami mats, if that matters to you.)
You’ll want to stay either in Kyoto or Osaka. Why? Both are accessible to the rest of the region and to Tokyo (or elsewhere), and these are the two cities with the most to do. Which is best for you? Whichever you want to spend more time in. Kyoto arguably has more to do and see than Osaka, but has less of a city feel than Osaka, worse transit, and more tourists. But maybe I just don’t like Kyoto.
If you decide to stay in Kyoto, you’ll probably want to either be near the main train station or at a hotel that offers a shuttle there regularly. (My first visit I stayed at the Crowne Plaza and there was a shuttle every half hour.) If you stay in Osaka, I’d suggest the main downtown area near Osaka Station, unless the focus of your trip is Universal Studios, in which case stay there. Regardless of which city you choose, accessibility to a major train station will allow you to explore the region as a whole in a more effective way. Just realize if you want to do multiple days in Kyoto, and you want to see the top sights, you will be faced with early mornings leaving Osaka if you choose to stay there and want to be at a place like Kinkaku-Ji before the main hordes arrive.
What to Eat
Food is great everywhere in Japan, and while the overall food here in Kansai isn’t as good as Tokyo, that’s not a knock. You’ll eat well everywhere you go.
The basic Japanese staples are known, and available all over, so I want to focus instead on a couple of regional items. That list has to start with Kobe beef. If you eat beef, and you are in Kansai, it is 100% worth spending whatever time it takes to get to Kobe to have the best beef in the world. The lunch specials at some of the top places can still be over $100 per person, but between the food, the show (watching it cooked in front of you), and the bragging rights, it’s worth it. I ate at Kobe Steak Ishida this trip, and spent about $100 per person for 110g of A5 Kobe sirloin, plus all the accoutrements. I can’t recommend it highly enough. (Just note, reservations for westerners tend to involve pre-ordering – the same thing for all members of the party – and pre-paying. And it can take a few tries to find a top place that will accept your reservation request.)
If you are in Osaka, try okonomiyaki. It is a sort of layered pancake, though much MUCH more casserole-adjacent than what we think of as a pancake. It can have all sorts of things in it: cabbage, cheese, meat, shellfish, noodles, and more. I had mine at Nadai Chibo near Osaka Castle. They also offer vegetarian options, if that is an issue.
I mentioned sake before, but let’s talk about it again. Kobe produces the majority of the country’s sake out of it’s Nada neighborhood, and if you enjoy drinking it, there are several sake breweries that offer free tastings and small museums within an easy walk of each other. Add sake soft serve, yuzu liqueur, and other treats, and it is a fun way to complete your Kobe day after you gorge on beef.
Other Useful Information
More than in even Tokyo, visiting Kansai necessitates planning ahead. The big sights get crowded… very crowded. You’ll want to do those either first or last thing in the day. And with how spread out the region is, being efficient in your movement can make the difference between a great day and a frustrating one.
A shocking number of sights, especially the temples in Kyoto, are cash only. While admissions are reasonable, be prepared to need cash regularly.
Conclusion
Especially if it is your first time in Japan, it feels a trip wouldn’t be complete without visiting the Kansai region. Just be prepared for crowds, and for some significant time spent on transportation as you navigate around the area. But if you can deal with those things, you’ll be treated to some of the most awe-inspiring sights in all of Japan.
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