In a country full of beautiful places, this might be at the top of the list. It is early afternoon at Osaka Castle Park, one alternating between somewhat sunny and totally overcast, humid with rain expected in the evening. The park is green, the cherry blossoms are out in full force, and the castle dominates the vista, gold embellishments gleaming. Despite the crowds and the threat of rain (which fortunately holds off), it is a perfect scene.

Osaka Castle is actually a relatively new addition to a truly historic city. It was built in 1583 by Totoyami Hideyoshi, regarded as one of the true unifiers of Japan (via conquest). Hideyoshi built the castle on the former site of the Ikko-Ikki temple, the scions of which had successfully rebelled against Hideyoshi and his predecessor, Oda Nobunaga. (For those of you who have read Shogun by James Clavell – my favorite book in the world – you will recognize Osaka Castle as one of the principal locations, and know Hideyoshi as the Taiko.)

The castle is built inside of a series of moats, stone walls, and earthen defenses, with additional fortified gates and towers throughout. The main structure appears to be five levels tall, although it is actually eight on the interior, with golden decorations accented by dark green roofs. It is an impressive structure from a defensive standpoint, one that managed to resist the future Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1614, despite being outnumbered by more than two to one. (The Tokugawa forces were said to be about 200,000.) The castle would fall the following year, however, and the Tokugawa Shogunate would rule for the next two and a half centuries. (Click here to read more about the shogunate.)

However, I doubt too many people here care all that much about the history of Osaka Castle. They are here for the beauty of the structure and the park surrounding it. And in their defense, it is stunning, probably the most picturesque of Japan’s castles (although not the largest). The patterns covered in gold leaf are restored originals, as Hideyoshi used the decoration to impress visitors to his new headquarters.

And did I mention the cherry blossoms? If you are lucky enough to be in Osaka during that briefest and most stunning of Japanese seasons, this is the place to go to view the bloom in all its glory.

My base here in Japan’s Kansai region (Osaka-Kobe-Kyoto and surrounds) is Kyoto, and it is about 45 minutes on the slower “normal” train to get here, followed by a few brief stops on one of the local lines to the castle. I begin in the northeastern corner of the park, at Jo-Terrace, a sleek collection of restaurants and boutiques. I’m here for one of Osaka’s signature foods, okonomiyaki, at Nadai Chibo. Okonomiyaki is a layered pancake, although the term pancake is a bit misleading compared to what Americans are used to. Think of it as a casserole with some batter poured over to keep it together and round. The traditional version has cabbage, pork, shrimp, cheese, various sauces, and more. The Hiroshima version also has noodles. It is a fascinating food, and they even have a vegetarian one here.

The walk to the castle is lovely, full of greenery, cherry trees, and the moats and outer walls of the castle complex. It is a decently steep walk to actually reach Osaka Castle, but I take my time, enjoying each new vista.

One can go inside the castle, but the line seems incredibly long, so instead I find a bench and enjoy the views, before exiting the complex on the opposite side and heading for the Osaka Museum of History, a cool looking building across the street from the park. Admission is reasonable, with exhibits spread over several floors, delving into the history of Osaka itself.

While people have lived here for millennia, the history of Osaka itself begins roughly in the 7th century, when this was a capital city. The Chinese-style Naniwa Palace was built here, and would be used (along with a subsequent version after the first burned down) for a hundred or so years. Excavations of the palace can be seen from the museum windows in a park across the street (the other direction from the castle), and a portion of the top floor of the museum is set up to be a replica of the central audience chamber of the palace, known as the Daigokuden.

From then until the days of Hideyoshi, Osaka remained a reasonably important port, but a minor city from a political and cultural standpoint. Today, however, it is Japan’s Second City, the most important point in the country’s second biggest metro area. It is one of the culinary capitals, a cultural hub (especially for traditional theatre), and an entertainment mecca. I’ll admit to knowing little of this before visiting the museum, but the series of well-curated and interactive exhibits teaches me a lot.

If there are two highlights to the Osaka Museum of History, they are as follows. First, the view of the city, and especially of Osaka Castle.

Second, the museum houses what is probably the best collection of dioramas I have ever seen, featuring scenes ranging from a copper workshop (copper was an important part of the local economy) to full city neighborhoods. The level of detail put in, combined with virtual tours done by lights, is just stunning.

To be completely honest, I’m sad not to have more time in Osaka. My day consists of just these two sights, but there are so many more things I’d love to experience, like the world’s largest aquarium. And given my overall dislike of Kyoto (click here to read about Kyoto), it probably would have made a more satisfying base. If I come back to Kansai, I will make that change.

I really enjoyed my day in Osaka, and it marks one of the highlights of my Japan trip. A beautiful castle, some fascinating history, and a totally unique and iconic food… these all add up to a great city!

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