Editor’s note: I’ve barely scratched the surface of Oceania, and the Cook Islands aren’t even on my radar. Until now. I mean, just read Hedy’s descriptions of the beauty and culture, and you’ll want to go, too. For more of Hedy’s writing, click here to visit her index page.
Until a year ago, I didn’t even know the place existed, and I think there are many more people like me. So, after visiting (some of it), I am very excited to introduce you to the enchanting Cook Islands.
So let’s start with where to find these elusive islands. The Cook Islands, or in Cook Islands Maori Kūki ‘Āirani, is an island country in Polynesia, part of Oceania. It is located in the South Pacific Ocean, northeast of New Zealand, between American Samoa and French Polynesia. It consists of fifteen islands, split between two island groups, the Northern islands (Manihiki, Nassau, Penrhyn, Pukapuka, Rakahanga, Suwarrow) and the Southern islands (Atiu, Aitutaki, Mangaia, Manuae, Mauke, Mitiaro, Palmerston, Rarotonga and Takutea).
The Cook Islands were first settled by Polynesian people, who probably traveled there from Tahiti around 1000 years ago. After the first settlers, several European explorers visited, one of which is the island nation’s namesake, Captain James Cook. After the explorers, the Christian missionaries came in the 1820s and up until today most islanders are still Christian. Around 1900, the Cook Islands became part of the British Crown and that’s also when official ties with New Zealand started. In 1949, all Cook Islanders with a British Nationality automatically became New Zealand citizens. And a few years later the Cook Islands became self-governing (in free association with NZ) which they still are today.
The main island of the Cooks is Rarotonga, which also is the place you’ll arrive when flying to the Cook Islands. Coming from Auckland it takes about four hours and flying from that side, you’ll become a time traveler because you cross the international date line. But if time traveling isn’t your thing, or it’s just easier to fly from the other side, you can also reach the Cook Islands from Hawaii. From Rarotonga you can take another flight to many of the other islands, but for some you have to take (or charter) a boat and travel several days or weeks more.
So with all this traveling, is it worth it to go? The magic of the Cook Islands, as far as I have experienced, is that every island has its own character. And if you know what you’re looking for in a visit, you can pick the right island for you and have a fantastic time. I’ve only visited three of the islands, but I found charm in each, so lets talk about that.
Rarotonga is the main island where you will arrive when taking a plane to the Cook Islands. Rarotonga is the busy (well not really, but compared to the rest) and lively entertainment island of the Cook Islands. During the day you can entertain yourself with hiking, biking, swimming, snorkeling, or diving. In the evening (and deep into the night) you can enjoy the many restaurants, bars, and discotheques. A must do is to visit one of the “island nights” on the island. Here you can enjoy local food while seeing a show with local music, dancing, and some fire acrobatics. Or if you’re more into late night entertainment, join a party bus for a trip around Rarotonga, visiting some of the many bars and clubs available. However, the risk of staying on Rarotonga and just staying on the beach or in one of the resorts is not really getting to know the island and the people living there. So my two favourite things I did were exploring the island with a tour.
As a Dutchie I love my bike tours, so whenever I can do one, I will (the stereotype is 100% true!). I found a company called Storytellers Eco Cycling which takes you off the beaten path and to some beautiful hidden spots, and all the while you learn about the island, islanders, and everything (edible) that grows there.
My favourite evening activity (of course) was a food tour, visiting homes of residents who made their families food. They showed us around and told stories about their family histories, and the homemade food was delicious. So if you decide to visit Rarotonga, please explore the island a bit further as you will see the beauty beyond the resorts and beaches.
If you are more into nature, rest, and quiet, or if you need a break from the parties, Atiu is the perfect island to go to. Forty minutes away in a tiny plane from Rarotonga, you can find a small and quiet paradise island. Atiu has 400 inhabitants, one tiny supermarket, loads of endangered birds being saved from extinction, and five churches. The island is walkable in a few days and has the friendliest people. I did a walk every morning on a different part of the island, and every time I met someone along the way, they waved and greeted me. Next to just exploring the island in a slow tempo there are, in my eyes, two must-do’s.
The first one is a tour to the Anatakitaki caves. On the way to the tour (on the back of a motorbike) we stopped a few times to get some fresh coconuts and fruits for during and after the tour. We parked the bike in the middle of the forest and had a rough hike (due to the humidity, heat, and me just being generally clumsy) to the caves. The island is an old coral-based plateau, so the caves are hollowed out of coral and limestone. They were way bigger than I expected so that really impressed me. There are multiple chambers and every one has its unique selling point. My favourite one was the cave where the Atiu swiftlets reside (think a swallow with bat-like characteristics). They nest on the stalactites and use echolocation to find their way in the dark. The clicks they emit can be heard all around you, something I’ve never heard before. The other cave I loved was the one with the indoor pool. It’s a bit of a climb down (but if my clumsy body can do it, you can too) and then you take off your shoes and sweaty clothes and enjoy the cold (actually cold!) water. The guide even had some candles lined on the walls for a magical atmosphere, which really helped to relax when floating.
The other thing I did on Atiu was visiting a Tumunu. You can loosely describe it as a bush bar with homemade bushbeer. But for me it is also the essence of Atiu. The tradition of the tumunu finds its origins in visiting whalers who were looking for something stronger that coconut water. So the bushbeer, made from local oranges, came into existence. The local missionaries were not happy about this, and started punishing the locals caught drinking bushbeer. The fine would consist of building hard coral walls, which you still find all over the island. So the bushbeer brewers went deep into the jungle and founded secret closed-membered drinking groups called tumunus. Luckily these tumunus survived the persecution and nowadays aren’t a secret anymore. It even incorporated religion in the tradition, as the evening is started by a prayer or blessing. Drinks are free, but it is expected that you contribute by either bringing snacks (fruit) for the evening or give some money for ingredients for the next brew. For me, the tumunu was the ultimate sharing experience. You share the cup with the entire group (don’t think too much about hygiene), and share food, stories, and views. So if you get the chance to visit Atiu, even for a few days, don’t miss the tumunu!
The last Cook Island I visited was Aitutaki. And honestly, I barely saw anything of the island itself as I was submerged in the water for almost the entire week. It is an absolute snorkelers paradise. The island is an almost-atoll and thus has a huge lagoon, closed off by a barrier reef from the deeper waters. Because of that, the snorkeling is very safe and easy, as the waves stay outside the lagoon.
One of the main underwater attractions is the giant clams. Though they come in many sizes (baby giant clams are about as big as your hand), the truly giant ones are mesmerizing. Each has its own colour and pattern, purple, green, blue, gold. There are many tours going out into the lagoon for some snorkel stops. Most of them stop at one foot island which has a post office and is a true bounty island, with white sand and blue water.
But for a (for me) more exciting tour, I joined my host at matriki beach huts on the private boat (twice). We visited a spot outside the lagoon to look for turtles, rays, and sharks (spotted all three) as well as multiple spots inside to see the many awesome sea creatures inhabiting it. We also stopped at a few uninhabited islands to visit the fairy terns and red tailed tropical birds with their babies. This is not regularly included in most tours, so if you want to see or snorkel the more elusive spots, it might be smart to ask around for a boat and guide that can take you there.
The other thing Aitutaki is really good at is sunsets. And I know I’ve already claimed that the best ones are in Kota Kinabalu, but that was before I visited Aitutaki. Because really, they beat them by a mile. The only downside to the sunsets there is that it is also happy hour for the mosquitos, but nothing that can’t be stopped with some repellent. With a drink in hand, feet in the sand, and the breathtaking colors of the sunset, you really feel like you’re living the island life on Aitutaki.
So, if you decide to travel all the way to the Cook Islands, make sure to do your research on what islands best suit your needs and wishes. It is a (too) long way to travel to end up on an island you don’t like. For me, I am very glad I visited them when I was in the area (NZ), because I don’t think I would go all the way to the other side of the world, just for the Cook Islands. But when you get the chance, please take the time to go there and immerse yourself in Cook Islands culture and nature, because it is a truly magical place on earth that will charm itself to a spot in your heart forever.
How to eat your way through the Cook Islands
The best way to sample all the delicacies and dishes of the Cook Islands is to join the progressive dinner tour on Rarotonga. But if you’re not going to Rarotonga, or group tours are not your thing, here are some of the things you have to try.
On Atiu you cannot miss the fruits. This maybe sounds silly, because you can get most of the fruits at home, but trust me it’s not the same. The juiciest and most flavorful mangos, papayas, and starfruits I’ve ever had and they even got me to like coconut in all its forms.
The Cook Island dish I ate the most is Ika Mata. You can get it at most restaurants and it is also often served at island nights. It is raw fish ‘cooked’ in lemon juice, then mixed with coconut milk and veggies like onion, bell pepper, cucumber, or tomato. Every Cook Islander has their own (family) recipe, so it will taste a bit different every time, but it always tastes great.
My last food recommendation I’m a bit afraid to share, but I really liked it so I will just confess: it is a hamburger joint. All over the world you can get hamburgers, but I just really loved these. They are from Vili’s burger joint on Rarotonga, and they are nothing fancy, just big, greasy comfort food level burgers. And sometimes that’s exactly what you need (or want).
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