It stands as the most visible and dominant portion of the city’s skyline, and has for roughly 1,000 years. Top tourist attraction, most recognizable landmark, and the first thing visitors notice when arriving, Edinburgh Castle looks magical. It sits at the top of the Royal Mile, a mix of pedestrian zone and not that contains many of Edinburgh’s busiest attractions on its way to the royal palace at Hollyrood. But beyond being beautiful, why is this castle one that tourists should visit? And how best should one experience the castle, and from where?

Let’s begin with some history. Edinburgh Castle was most likely constructed during the reign of Scottish King Duncan III, sometime in the eleventh century. (I say most likely because while this is the first mention of it as a royal residence and fortress, we don’t have an exact date for the castle’s grand opening, and it may have been earlier.) It is built atop Castle Rock, a granite hill that is only approachable from a single side (more on this in a bit), so while the surface area limits the footprint of how large a castle on top can be, the natural defense and elevation allow for a difficult stronghold to attack and for a good range of sight for those defending it.

However, despite the natural defenses and despite the impressive man-made walls and towers, Edinburgh Castle has been attacked a whopping 26 times, making it the most besieged castle in Britain. It has changed hands between Scotland and England several times, witnessing some severe fighting and more than its share of intrigue.

Admission comes with a timed entry, and is necessary to book well ahead, especially in the summer months, as roughly 75% of visitors to Edinburgh try to get in to see its castle while here. Earlier time slots are better since there is no enforced exit time, so those are the only way to ensure a relatively small number of fellow tourists to share the site with. If you are lucky enough to book those early slots (930am seems to be the first), make a beeline for the top of the structure, and the four most important elements of Edinburgh Castle.

First is St. Margaret’s Chapel. While it isn’t exactly an impressive building, this is the oldest surviving building within Edinburgh Castle, dating to the early 12th century. (It is said to be the oldest surviving building in the entire city.) Named for Margaret, wife of King Duncan III, the chapel was built by her son David I, and was the only building left untouched when Robert the Bruce captured it in 1314.

Three other structures sit around a central courtyard here at the top of Edinburgh Castle. All are worth seeing, and all restrict entry and can have long lines. The Great Hall dates to the 16th century when Scotland was in its glory days under the Stewarts. (Click here to read more about the Stewarts and Scottish royalty from nearby Stirling Castle.) It is large, open, has some original decorations, and contains a huge array of arms and armor.

The Royal Palace stopped being used as such by the early seventeenth century, but a few rooms have been semi-restored to what they might have been back when James VI of Scotland (James I of England) was born here in 1567, though he would grow up at Stirling. But one visits the palace portion of Edinburgh Castle for the Scottish Crown Jewels. Photos cannot be taken, but the collection includes a ceremonial crown, scepter, and sword, as well as a new sword made specifically for the current monarch, King Charles III. With the English Crown Jewels being destroyed during the English Civil War, these are the oldest in Britain (current monarchs use the newer British Crown Jewels that were created after the Union). During World War Two, they were buried here in the ruins of David’s Tower, beneath the modern castle buildings, for protection, with only four people knowing the locations.

Finally, one of the newest portions of Edinburgh Castle is the Scottish War Memorial. Opened in 1927, it occupies the highest point inside the complex, and is also the most beautiful. Alcoves honor each Scottish regiment to fight in all wars beginning with World War One, as well as civilian corps and other specialty roles. Again, photographs are not allowed, but it is absolutely worth waiting in line to go into this incredible monument.

Other buildings in Edinburgh Castle act as museums. The Scottish War Museum has a vast collection of artifacts that can all be traced to specific Scots who served in the British armed forces.

But I am more interested in those areas that speak to the history of the castle itself. One goes into the period of time known as the Scottish Wars of Independence, from 1286 to 1357. When the Scottish king Alexander III died in 1286, Scotland asked the English King Edward I for help in settling various claims to the throne. He invaded instead, taking Edinburgh Castle in 1296. In 1314, Robert the Bruce’s men somehow climbed the cliff face and took the garrison back, after which the Scottish king ordered it mainly destroyed. But it was rebuilt after being taken by England again in 1335, before returning to Scottish hands in 1341.

After the end to the Wars of Independence, King David II set to refortify Edinburgh Castle, building what we now call David’s Tower, the ruins of which can be visited. Subsequent monarchs added new walls and battlements, with the Stewart King James II and his love of cannons giving the artillery bastions the main form they have today.

Two pieces of artillery are worth seeing. First is Mons Meg, one of the largest cannons ever created, built for James II as a wedding present. The second is the much more modern “One O’Clock Gun,” which has been used to keep time for centuries. (This is obviously a newer iteration, and fires a blank that can still be heard all over this part of the city every day at 1pm.)

The only downside of visiting Edinburgh Castle is that the best views of the imposing structure are from outside. While some prefer the sight from Calton Hill, I have two favorite views to highlight. First, and easiest to reach, is the view from below at Ross Fountain in Princes Street Garden. (If you take a train into Edinburgh, this is also the view you’ll get out of the right hand side as you approach Waverley Station.)

Second is the view from the Royal Observatory south of the city center, which offers a panoramic vista of the entire city, its many towers, and the majestic Arthur’s Seat arrayed before you once you clear the tree line.

From Edinburgh Castle, the Royal Mile (nicknamed such in a 1901 guide to the city) stretches just over a mile to Holyroodhouse, the royal palace that replaced the castle as the principle royal residence in the city when it was built in 1678. The palace is the second-most visited site in Edinburgh, but I don’t need to enter to know that the British royal family lives well. (It is still a working royal palace, so visitations are limited to some of the more public rooms, and it is obviously closed if the family is there.)

The road between hosts some of Edinburgh’s most historic buildings, some incredible kitschy tourist sites, and more souvenir shops and overpriced restaurants than the rest of the city combined. It is not a pedestrian street in most parts, although tourists believe it to be, so be careful and don’t block the buses that Edinburgh needs to keep the city moving.

The most interesting building along the Royal Mile is St. Giles’ Cathedral, the main church of the city. Consecrated in 1243, St. Giles’ played a major role in the Scottish Reformation, with John Knox as its minister. Outside is the Heart of Midlothian, a stone mosaic set into the ground. It sits where one used to be able to see down to (and spit on) the pit where condemned prisoners were kept. Today it is considered lucky to spit on the stone heart, so don’t be disturbed if you see that as you pass by.

While overly crowded and touristy, a stroll down the Royal Mile is an important part of a visit to Edinburgh. The buildings are historic and beautiful, the bagpipers add a lovely ambience (though tip them if you take their photos), and some of the souvenir stores are actually quite good, especially if you desire scarves or other knit garments with Scottish tartan patterns.

Visible from all over the city, as imposing now as it was a thousand years ago, Edinburgh Castle is the most recognizable and most important sight in all of Edinburgh, perhaps in all of Scotland. It is absolutely worth a visit, followed or preceded by a walk along the Royal Mile, historic Edinburgh’s main thoroughfare. The magic of the city truly unfolds here.

Thank you to Historic Environment Scotland for generously hosting my visit to Edinburgh Castle, even helping me reschedule when a visit by King Charles III forced a closure.

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