An early morning on the shore of Loch Ness feels magical. I am standing near the ruins of Urquhart Castle, overlooking a shallow bay in the lake that gives way to a deep trench. It is misty, the perfect weather for the most famous denizen of the deep to feel safe coming to the surface. The low clouds creep over the hills surrounding the loch, landing on trees, settling into the alcoves.

All of a sudden, the mists lift, and I am able to see clearly across the large loch. And then, just for the briefest of instants, I am absolutely positive that I spied…

Nothing. Nothing at all, except beautiful waters dully shining in the gray morning light. Because, despite folk tales and faked photographs, there is nothing here in Loch Ness besides beauty and the nearly bottomless cash register of catering to tourists who believe in monsters.

That fact doesn’t make me any less excited to be here, on the briefest of stops on my way to the Isle of Skye from Inverness in Scotland’s Highlands. In fact, it just makes me smile more, the silliness of the situation, of making sure my camera is at the ready, standing at a sharp contrast to my history-loving, explanation-seeking self. I joke that my photos of Nessie, the Loch Ness Monster, will make my fortune, while knowing full well that I am here to merely admire the beautiful scenery.

And really, that’s enough. It’s more than enough. Beauty is to be appreciated and cherished in all its many forms, and Loch Ness offers that via the deep waters, the green trees, the mists, the ruins, and yes, in the faces of the people who truly believe that they will spot something magical. The lake is large, almost 25 miles long, narrow, and deep, more than 750 feet at some points. That depth makes it the largest lake in Britain by volume, and the perfect hiding spot for a fantastical monster.

What we think of as the Loch Ness Monster only dates back to the early 20th century, when a famous photo of a dinosaur emerging from the waters was faked. Despite an admission of forgery, based on a plastic dinosaur and toy submarine, the form stuck, and today Nessie is of course a sea serpent or dinosaur. But the folklore dates back centuries, and is much different.

Tales of a shape shifting beast living in the waters of Loch Ness (and indeed in all sorts of Scottish bodies of water) were just as accepted as those of fairies, classic parts of Gaelic mythology. Stories warn young children to stay away from the lake, lest they be pulled under. Later Christian mythology equates the Loch Ness Monster to a tool of Satan. But while monster hunters and lovers of tall tales may still believe, scientists are quick to point out that a) Loch Ness is large, but not nearly large enough to forever hide a creature as large as people want to believe, and b) if such a creature did at one point exist here, it would be dead without having a mate and the ability to perpetuate.

The River Ness gets its start here on the lake, and where it flows into the North Sea sits the city of Inverness, which literally means mouth of the River Ness. A city of about 50,000 – absolutely huge for the Highlands – Inverness makes the best, and kind of the only, real home base to explore the area. It has a number of hotels, including American chains, a myriad of restaurants, and a charming walkable center.

Inverness also has a castle, although it is currently undergoing renovation. A reconstruction of a much earlier “real” castle, today’s Inverness Castle houses a courthouse and other justice-centered offices. But it is pretty, especially from the far side of the river.

Beyond that, Inverness isn’t really the place one goes to specifically sight-see. The cathedral is nice, but more a meeting spot for day tours than a destination in and of itself.

What Inverness does have, though, in spades is live music venues. Walking around the center means wave after wave of sound coming from open doors. Some pubs have more traditional (read: bagpipes) bands, while others are a bit more eclectic. On a summer weekend, all require reservations to assure getting in. I choose Hootananny, which apparently won “Best Live Music Venue in Scotland” in 2019, and am treated to a spectacular singer doing a mix of lounge hits and some classic rock (he belts Queen’s Somebody to Love spectacularly) and a Scottish menu. Haggis, Scottish salmon, sticky toffee pudding… combined with the music, I am a happy camper.

I came to the Highlands mainly to visit the Isle of Skye. Loch Ness was just a quick stop and Inverness just a place with a hotel. But I found myself really enjoying both, enough that I wanted to share those experiences with all of you. The loch is kitschy, and the city is touristy, but there is charm and excitement to both.

Like it? Pin it!