Not too many of America’s national parks occupy a place like this, just outside of a major metropolitan area. But here, just a half hour from downtown Cleveland, and – in some places – mere feet off of interstate freeways, sits an oasis easily reachable by day trippers. Hiking, bird watching, and one of the country’s most wonderful bike paths sit in patchwork with small towns, a random conglomeration of land that was acquired as it became available, protecting this area from almost-certain suburban development.

Cuyahoga Valley National Park doesn’t have that awe factor of some of the other system gems. (To be fair, of the 63 “full” national parks, maybe only a dozen or so stand out in that fashion, places like Yosemite, Zion, or the Grand Canyon. The rest are just wonderful protected places, and despite that lack of “wow”, no less beautiful.) But it does have some cool geology, stunning wetlands, a lush river system, and even a bit of local history. And since it is so easily reached, it allows for a diverse crowd of locals and tourists to spend a day away from the city to enjoy Ohio at its most lovely.

The Cuyahoga River is perhaps best known for catching fire (yes, you read that right) in 1952 as a result of pollution, which sparked some serious water cleanliness legislation. But here, today, south of Cleveland, the river seems pristine. It meanders through its flood plain – which isn’t all that wide since the river doesn’t flood too often – and carves a channel along the Allegheny Plateau. Perhaps the best way to see the river is at the Peninsula Coffee House. Peninsula is one of the small towns now surrounded by the national park, and the deck here overlooks the river.

But Cuyahoga Valley National Park is much more than the Cuyahoga River. One needs look no further than the park’s most popular trail to see what is so special about this place. Ledges Trail is a 2ish mile loop (it ends up being about 2.5 miles to do the whole thing from the parking area) that circles a place where the geological underpinnings of the plateau can be seen. Here, shale, sandstone, and even quartz pebbles form the namesake ledges, rock cliffs that the trail runs beneath.

Over the course of the circuit, the rocks change, but the greenery, both in the trees and the mosses and lichens covering the rocks themselves, remains constant. In some places, the rock walls are more solid; in others, narrow crevices beckon. Trees grow from cracks in the rocks. And with the trail being majority flat (there are some steps up and down, some of which can be slippery or have exposed rocks and tree roots), it is a pretty easy way to spend the morning post-coffee.

The rocks beneath this part of Ohio also lead to some stunning waterfalls, as the creeks and streams that feed the Cuyahoga River tumble past. Brandywine Falls is literally just off the interstate (which can be seen from the parking), and is the most impressive falls in the park. A boardwalk leads to a few different observation points where one can watch the water flow over the sandstone ledge.

Or for a totally different take on Cuyahoga Valley, head to Beaver Marsh. This wetlands features a variety of migrating birds, as well as its namesake beavers. The wetlands are formed by beaver dams along both the river and the Ohio and Erie Canal, which is no longer in use. (More on the canal in a moment.) And the wetlands are more than just a novelty; they protect the entire area from flooding, being able to absorb excess water that would otherwise potentially cause the Cuyahoga to overflow its banks.

A boardwalk here crosses the marsh, but on either side, it is a walking and biking trail that was once the towpath for the canal. The Ohio and Erie Canal once connected the Ohio River all the way to Lake Erie! The path has become one of the country’s longest and coolest bike paths, extending both directions from Cuyahoga Valley National Park. Here at Beaver Marsh, one of the locks of the canal can be seen, although today the flow of water is only controlled by weather and beavers.

One can walk as far along the path as one wants in both directions from Beaver Marsh. But be on the lookout for wildlife. Beavers are typically only visible at dawn and dusk (and even a ranger I spoke to has never seen river otters that also have homes here), but birds abound. And evidence of the beavers is all over.

Cuyahoga Valley National Park was established as Cuyahoga Valley National Recreation Area in 1974, and was “upgraded” to a full national park in 2000. Its area was acquired piecemeal as land became available, hence its having towns within the park boundaries. (These towns being there also makes entrance to the park free, as there are too many roads going in and out to have admission gates.) But as some of the area protected was inhabited, it also means Cuyahoga Valley National Park has some cool people history also, like the only remaining covered bridge in the area.

And there is so much more that I couldn’t possibly see in a single day (well, two half days in my case).

It is said that the National Parks system is “America’s greatest idea.” Well, having this one, Cuyahoga Valley National Park, just outside a major US city is proof. Just a short drive from downtown Cleveland, you can spend a day with some great rock formations, a lovely river, majestic waterfalls, and bird-filled wetlands. And more. That’s a day well spent!

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