As the saying goes, “Before God was God and boulders were boulders, Basques were already Basques.” The Basque people, from an area along the border between France and Spain, have been around a long time, with a language that predates basically anything else in Europe. So it is a bit weird to find a large community – 10-15,000 strong by estimation – of Basque descent here in Boise, Idaho. But here they are, and it is one of the coolest aspects to a pretty awesome city.

Basque immigration to the US, and to Idaho in particular, happened in waves. As a culture in which the oldest child inherited the majority of his parents’ (father’s) estate, younger children tended to move to seek opportunities. Some came to what is now the US with Spanish conquistadors and missionaries, winding up in the southwest. Others came to the United States itself in the 19th century, mainly as sheep herders. Those immigrants tended to arrive via the east coast and make their way west. Idaho was a place off the railroad, reachable from both the east and from California, and a community converged here as herders were in demand. And as with so many immigrant communities, once a home was established, more came.

Other Basque communities exist all over, with large populations in San Francisco (a remnant of Basques who chased the gold rush, and other immigration waves) and Bakersfield, California, among others.

While the first Basque sheep herders were simple farmhands, some would end up taking some animals in lieu of pay, and over time, many Basque immigrants became large ranch owners, property owners, and pillars of the early pioneer communities.

Here in Boise, early community members founded boarding houses, places where new arrivals could temporarily stay. One such place still sits preserved in downtown Boise. Built in 1864, the Cyrus Jacobs house was purchased by a Basque family in 1910. In 1917, Jose and Hermengilda Uberuaga turned it into a boarding house for Basque boarders, and in 1985 the house was acquired by the Basque Museum and Cultural Center to be their home; when the museum moved to a new building next door, the house was restored to how it would have looked in the early days.

Facilities are definitely not fancy, with rooms ranging from small to “Harry Potter under the staircase” level tiny. But a communal kitchen provided food, and shared facilities led to companionship. And so those who came here were taken care of.

It is this principle of community, komunitatea in the Basque language, that is the centerpiece of the Basque Museum and Cultural Center’s exhibition. Here, one can trace the Basque people from early immigration to modern day integration. Signage discusses Basque communities not only here in Boise, but all over the American west, and interactive displays allow visitors to explore various aspects of the Basque ways of life.

Like most immigrant communities in the United States, while first generation elders maintained many of their linguistic and cultural ties to the homeland, second and third generations seemed to mainly assimilate. It is really only in the last few decades that Basque traditions have become again an active part of the community here. Today, there is a Basque language preschool, a variety of art programs, and even a Basque studies minor at Boise State University!

But it is an every-five-year festival called Jaialdi that truly sets Boise’s Basque community apart. The first Jaialdi was held in 1987, and in 1990 was set to its current schedule (with 2020 canceling due to COVID). This Basque cultural festival attracts tens of thousands of Americans of Basque heritage, as well as visitors from the “old country.”

So it is no wonder that the Basque Museum and Cultural Center here in Boise holds such a large and fascinating collection of artifacts (you don’t want to miss the arborglyphs, scars cut into local aspen trees). Because Boise is as much part of the Basque identity as anywhere outside of France or Spain. Heck, this is where the Basque government in exile came during the Franco years, and where separatists visited to fundraise. And even today, anyone in the Basque diaspora can visit the museum to trace their family lineage via interactive programs.

The area right outside of the Basque Museum and Cultural Center has been designated Boise’s Basque Block, although Basque crafts and food can be found for several blocks beyond. It is a street lined with Basque flags and symbols – and one of the most popular places to go to eat in the city.

The highlight of Basque Block is the food. It is extensive, diverse, and based on my own personal experience, incredibly tasty. I honestly don’t think you could choose wrong just by walking into any Basque restaurant, or chowing down on communal paella from Basque Market (at least served for lunch on Fridays, and probably other days). For the record, Basque paella has seafood and sausages in it, rather than the rabbit and snails of traditional Valencian paella.

My favorite meal was at Ansots, which is only open from 10-3 on Tuesday through Saturday. Here, Basque-style tapas is the thing, from their three different kinds of homemade chorizos to the stunningly creamy Basque croquetas (basically fried bechamel balls with stuff) to patatas bravas, potatoes with garlic, salsa, and aioli.

And make sure to save room for traditional Basque burnt cheesecake. It is divine!

Thinking about it, it seems almost apropos that Boise is home to one of the largest Basque expat populations. After all, the Basque people have always been spectacularly independent. They have kept alive a language that predates just about all others in Europe, and isn’t related to any of them. They have kept traditions going despite not having their own country. So yeah, ending up in Boise, Idaho is fitting, another bizarre chapter in a history of a truly incredible people who have managed to not only survive despite sometimes great challenges, but thrive.

When you come to visit Boise – and I hope you do; it’s a really great place – you can help to be part of this history, learning and experiencing the living culture that is Basque Boise. You’ll be glad you did.

Thank you so much to the Basque Museum and Cultural Center for hosting me and for answering all of my questions. I’m grateful for your time and patience!

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