A walk along the Malecon, the oceanside promenade that traverses Puerto Vallarta’s Zona Romantica and Centro districts, can only be described as pleasant. Even in October, with temperatures and humidity both high, the sound of seabirds and the afternoon breeze offset the often uncomfortable heat. And when they don’t, any number of bars offer a myriad of cold drinks, with or without alcohol.

The main event is sunset, and the various benches get crowded as the sky begins to light up and temperatures dip with the sun not directly overhead. Music plays, families take photos, street performers ply their crafts, and sunset cruises pass between onlookers and the horizon.

Yeah, it is pleasant.

Puerto Vallarta is one of the most popular vacation spots on Mexico’s Pacific coast, and the gateway to the stunning beaches of the Riviera Nayarit to the north. It is a cruise hub, a resort mecca, a haven for clubbers, and a destination for parties. But is it more?

The short answer is yes. But actual culture and history can be hard to find in a city in which a whopping 80% of people are employed in the tourism sector, where the only high rises are hotels and condos, and where western-focused fine dining can dominate even that area of life.

We begin on the Malecon itself. One would think that such a strip, located between the ocean and the most tourist-focused restaurants, shops, and clubs would not be a spot where local culture would be able to be seen. But even the walkway’s design hints at something deeper. The meandering paved pathway is decorated with stonework in the image of Huichal – the indigenous people of Jalisco and Nayarit – cosmogony. This 21st century redesign is meant to pay a small tribute to those who lived here before the Spanish came.

That native culture is even seen with performances of the Dance of the Flyers. Four dancers and a musician begin at the top of a tall pole, and dangling only by their feet, the dancers gracefully twirl their way toward the ground.

Beyond native culture, the Malecon is also home to the city’s most awesome sculpture gallery. Roughly every twenty to thirty meters, one finds some sort of fascinating art piece. Some, like a person riding a seahorse, are beautiful to me. Others are a bit more eccentric. All add life and culture to the beachfront.

My favorite spot along the water is the huge sculpture, The Millennium. While no plaque states what it actually means, I find the progress from DNA at the bottom, through sea and land creatures, to warriors and discoverers, and to an angel with a dove to be evolution leading to peace. I will die on this hill.

Puerto Vallarta was founded in 1851, and named for Ignacio Vallarta, a former governor of Jalisco. Its late founding and small population (only about 10,000 in 1960) come as a surprise to me, given its location on a fairly sheltered bay. It is only with the rise of tourism that the city has gained importance. Now home to about half a million in the metro area, it is modern, upscale, and beautiful, nestled between the water and verdant green mountains.

The city sits where the Rio Cuale meets the Pacific, and that river divides Centro from Zona Romantica. These are the two most visited neighborhoods, but while much caters to tourists, again, if one looks, one can find more local culture.

Only a few blocks from the waterfront in Zona Romantica, one is in a different world. Gone are the upscale eateries (as good as those are, with my favorite being The Blue Shrimp and its huge variety of shrimp seasonings), replaced by tiny cash-only taco stands. Mariscos el Guero is my pick, as I’m told it has a taco that is unique: a fried jalapeño stuffed with marlin, wrapped in tortillas. Well, it is crispy, meaty, spicy, and perfect.

I could have a similar experience at any number of places, small restaurants offering inexpensive food to the locals who spend their days catering to the tourists. And with more time, I absolutely would.

Of course, fine dining doesn’t have to be specifically geared to tourists. Those same few blocks inland, but this time in Centro, hosts Cafe Des Artistes, with a French-Mexican tasting menu that wows around every turn. Combined with insane cocktails (mine features sotol, similar to tequila but from Chihuahua, passion fruit, and ginger), it is easily my favorite meal in the area. Local art adorning the walls adds to the ambience, as does a superb violinist. The meal is not cheap – far from it – but it shows the evolution of Mexican cuisine for an emerging middle class, the opposite of the tourist fare along the water.

The symbol of Puerto Vallarta is the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe. Built in the 1930s, it is topped with a crown on its bell tower. As I wander inside, I encounter what I believe is either a confirmation or a quinceañera. Nobody seems to mind my sitting in the back for a bit.

This isn’t to say that all of my experiences in Puerto Vallarta were of authentic local culture. A Freddie Mercury tribute at The Palm Cabaret certainly wasn’t, although it does speak to the acceptance of the city that a club known for its drag shows and gay patronage is so popular. And yes, I did have my share of overpriced margaritas along the water.

So is there more to Puerto Vallarta than the throngs of tourists? Yes. Yes, there is. And more importantly, that aspect of local culture and identity is likely to grow as the city continues to expand, attracting more people who will, in turn, raise families. With that will come a truly Vallartense culture, one that will be unique. I can’t wait to return to see that process unfold.

Like it? Pin it!