Today, Nice is essential France. There is a bakery on every block, a wine bar next door, and crepe stands abound. There is art, there is culture. There is no doubt that this is truly France.

But in fact, Nice is a relative newcomer to France, its inclusion in the country only permanently coming in 1860 as part of a treaty between the Savoy kingdom of Piedmont-Sardinia (click here to read about them from their capital in Turin) and the Second French Empire under Napoleon III in return for French support during the Second Italian War of Independence. We will talk a bit more about that transition in an upcoming article, but today I want to focus on the nearly 500 years of Nice under Savoy (Italian) rule.

As we know, Nice has been around since Greek times, and the Roman ruins of Cemenelum (in today’s Cimiez neighborhood) give light to that period of the city’s history. (Click here to read about Roman Nice.) After the fall of Rome, Nice, like most similar cities along what is now the French and Italian coasts, was an independent city-state, and part of the Genoese League. But it was small, and desiring of protection. In 1388, following attempts by both France and the Holy Roman Empire to control the city, Nice sought alliance with the County of Savoy, precursor to the Kingdom of Piedmont-Sardinia. And so it was brought into the fold as the County of Nice, giving the Savoy dynasty access to a port.

So what would 14th century Nice have looked like? Well, the easiest way to see that is from the top of Nice’s Castle Hill. Today a huge and popular city park, this was once the site of Nice’s most important fortifications. Some predated Savoy rule; some was constructed by that Italian dynasty.

While today very little of the castle itself remains (it was destroyed in 1706 by the French and never rebuilt), it provides the best reference point for what Savoyard Nice was as a city. Viewpoints are everywhere, providing a 360 degree view of Nice, its harbor at Villefranche-Sur-Mer, and the Mediterranean itself. But focusing our views to those east and west (along the coast) we can see the 14th century city emerge.

Gazing first to the east, one can see the harbor at Villefranche. This is what gave Nice its strategic value to both the Savoy rulers and to those who tried – and even succeeded as in the case of a 1543 Ottoman conquest, although Ottoman rule would end two years later – to conquer the city. And above it, on a hill just to the other side of the harbor, sits the fortress of Mont Alban, a small star fort constructed in 1557 to prevent another such attack.

Looking to the west, we see the city of Nice itself, although it is easy to notice a diagonal line running through the city. Today that is a park, built via a capping of the Paillon River. But under Savoy rule, the river would have been visible, forming a western boundary to the city, which made a compact triangle between the river, Castle Hill, and the seafront. That triangle is what today we call Old Nice, and other than the beaches, it is probably the most popular part of the city for visitors.

For those who have explored the alleys and narrow streets of other old Mediterranean cities, the chaotic layout of Old Nice will be familiar. The narrowness of the streets provided shade from the summer sun, and protection from the winter winds. Steep staircases traverse the base of Castle Hill, and tiny gaps lead to pocket parks and plazas. It is a small place, and even by 1860 it had a population of only 40-some thousand, but it is dense, maze-ish, and delightful.

Besides Castle Hill, the main touristic sights of Old Nice are its cathedral and a small museum, the Palais Lascaris. Nice Cathedral was built under Italian rule, from 1650 to 1685, is Baroque, and has a footprint of a Latin cross. Dedicated to Saint Reparata, whose relics are housed here, it holds a number of ornate side chapels.

Palais Lascaris is a good example of what a noble home under Savoy rule would have been like. The Lascaris family made their fortunes as merchants and as members (even a Grand Master) of the Knights of St. John on Malta. Today’s museum offers some furnishings, some lovely ceiling frescoes, and a totally unrelated musical instrument collection. It takes about a half hour or an hour to see.

Beyond that, Old Nice is much more about its plethora of shops and restaurants than anything else. Try some socca (fried chickpea dough) or pissaladiere (onion tart) from a vendor – my favorite is Chez Theresa – or a pizza, a remnant of Italian times (although the French truly love pizza). Or head to Cours Saleya, where restaurants and cafes line both sides of a wide avenue. (You’ll pay tourist prices but the food will largely be excellent.)

And of course, spend more time at Castle Hill than simply admiring the views, although those are the highlight. The hilltop has an old cemetery (and a Jewish one next door) that began when it was decided not to rebuild the castle itself, a waterfall (artificial but pretty), and some fascinating mosaic of Greek mythology that hearkens us back to the days of Nikea, the Greek colony here.

Bring a picnic, watch the crowds of locals, but beware of two things. First, the park closes at sundown. And second, a cannon has been fired here every day at noon for over a century. You will hear it and it will startle you.

Looking at Nice today, it is hard to believe it was ever not French. But it was Italian for more of its history than it has flying the tricolor. And that history can best be seen here in Old Nice, the city’s heart and hub. It might not have the top tourist attractions, but it is worth visiting.

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